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5104  |  5106
Subject: 
Re: infrared remote control of LEGO trains using NQC and RCX
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains
Date: 
Sun, 26 Mar 2000 18:26:03 GMT
Viewed: 
2680 times
  
Thanks for the advise Michel,
After looking over the Jawn Henry schematics last night I noticed that each
six driver wheelset, there being 4 sets of 6, has an offset between the first
and second pair of drivers, then the second and third are close together.  So,
after scaling I believe I can make each Set of 6 using a motor and one pair
wheelset attached behind.  I guess I got lucky on that one.  The real macoy
has 7'-6" between the first and second and on 5'-3" between the second and
third.  After laying out the wheelsets the Jawn Henry, loco only, will come
out about 10 studs longer than my big boy, loco only.  I need more black
bricks!  But, I like the challenge of building the big locos.
On other news, my Big Boy made its first trip around the track last night.  It
worked beautifully, I expected disaster but to my surpise the driver-rods
pumped, the saddle and the smoke tubes swung out in curves under the smoke
box...it was awesome.  And, then the cat attacked it...Oh well, enough
rambling, i'll have pics soon and of the Jawn Herny construction.

By the way Ben, excellent job on the streamline, perfect color.
I welcome any comments or suggestions.  Thanks

Stacy B.


In lugnet.trains, Michel Magnan writes:
The central wheel from the 12V train motors comes off by simply pushing it
upward, yo then fit the wider hub into the top of the hole in the middle of
the 9V motor, and push it down.  It allows a 6 wheel setup.  They don't
exactly match, but if it is the wheel count that you are most interested in,
it works for that purposel.
Michel Magnan

"Stacy J. Bledsoe" wrote:

Here is a question for someone to give some thought to.  Is there a way to • get
a third wheel between to two wheels on the 9v train motor. (of course I am
talking about one side of the motor, but I would do it to both sides...)
There is a hole in the side of the motor block already...but one would have • to
cut, break, modify, or whatever the wheelset piece to have a pair of • matching
wheels to put there.  This idea would be very useful in building models of • the
"Congressional" PRR locomotives or the Jawn Henry.  The closest thing out
there is the 12V train motor, but it doesn't run on a 9V system of course • and
the wheels (drivers) are underscale.

I have seen people put the 12V center wheel from a 12V motor there. Not
sure how they did it. If you do, you lose the outer cladding (which
simulates the truck sideframe members, spring hangers and other stuff).

--
Larry Pieniazek - lpieniazek@mercator.com - http://my.voyager.net/lar
http://www.mercator.com. Mercator, the e-business transformation company
fund Lugnet(tm): http://www.ebates.com/ ref: lar, 1/2 $$ to lugnet.

Note: this is a family forum!



Message has 1 Reply:
  Jawn Henry construction notes (was Re: infrared remote control of LEGO trains using NQC and RCX
 
(...) If you do this (1) you need to arrange for articulation of some sort. I used a ball and socket(2). Others have used an arrangement to allow the non motor wheelset to slide sideways. (3) But if you make the 6 wheel truck rigid, you won't be (...) (24 years ago, 27-Mar-00, to lugnet.trains)

Message is in Reply To:
  Re: infrared remote control of LEGO trains using NQC and RCX
 
The central wheel from the 12V train motors comes off by simply pushing it upward, yo then fit the wider hub into the top of the hole in the middle of the 9V motor, and push it down. It allows a 6 wheel setup. They don't exactly match, but if it is (...) (24 years ago, 24-Mar-00, to lugnet.trains)

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