Subject:
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Re: infrared remote control of LEGO trains using NQC and RCX
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Thu, 23 Mar 2000 19:31:41 GMT
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Viewed:
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2227 times
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> I think I'll work it as I did the big boy, having the driver set attached to
> the body the the loco with sliding translations points to allow some growth in
> turns. Using a pivot point and a technic 3-hole piece (sorry I'm at work and
> the actually name has left me), I have found that it is easier to keep the
> line of the track. The later 8-driver set on the big boy slides to the left
> or right about 3 studs past the edge of the boiler. I did not connect the
> front and rear set of drivers. They pivot and articulate independently. The
> overhang is about as much as your Big RED. I don't know we'll see. Well know
> my day at the office is shot, all I can think of is lego instead of
> architacture. Thanks Larry! :)
>
> Stacy
Here is a question for someone to give some thought to. Is there a way to get
a third wheel between to two wheels on the 9v train motor. (of course I am
talking about one side of the motor, but I would do it to both sides...)
There is a hole in the side of the motor block already...but one would have to
cut, break, modify, or whatever the wheelset piece to have a pair of matching
wheels to put there. This idea would be very useful in building models of the
"Congressional" PRR locomotives or the Jawn Henry. The closest thing out
there is the 12V train motor, but it doesn't run on a 9V system of course and
the wheels (drivers) are underscale.
If anyone has any insight it would be appreciated. Thanks,
Stacy B.
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