 | | talent revealed
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canada's capital lug, parlugment, is proud to have as a member a very talented modder who quietly demonstrates his talent without tooting his horn. it needs to be tooted and loudly. norbert black is a dab hand with a paintbrush and very handy with (...) (20 years ago, 7-Nov-04, to lugnet.general, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX) !!
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) I think with a red/green bi-colour LED you can get any colour between the two by varying the mark/space ratio of the alternating waveform. A DCC controller varies the mark/space ratio of a square wave in order to drive the motor at different (...) (20 years ago, 28-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Warning when using 1 x 4 x 5 windows!
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(...) Thanks for the research. After some deliberating and opinion asking on www.brickish.org I decied to drill out the four windows I need to work this way. My first modded parts! My reasoning was that, as you said, some of the windows available do (...) (20 years ago, 24-Oct-04, to lugnet.build, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) You can get 3 colour LEDs that are designed to work that way. Not sure, but think they are orange as 3rd colour though. (...) Yes it can, motor outputs are reversing. So, using any stationary decoder that can power reversing switch machines (...) (20 years ago, 22-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) Hi Horst, that's a great picture. Yeah, that's what I've been striving for, a layout of roughly that complexity and automation, but without nearly as many wires. The remote controllers (along the bottom of the picture) being replaced by the (...) (20 years ago, 22-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) Yes, otherwise you could only run a DCC loco in one direction. ROSCO (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) I was thinking of something similar. Using 2 outputs you could control a 3 lead Bicolor LED. Or with a small NAND gate as well, you could use the 2 lead style LED that you mention. If you don't mind the LED always being on it only takes one (...) (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) Could you use a "bi-color" LED this way? Polarity one way, light is red. Polarity the other way, light is green. Polarity alternating, yellow! (Ok, that last part is probably a pipe-dream... <grin>) Can DCC output a voltage with either (...) (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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Hi everybody, (...) Correct. 7860 is the set number. A quick Google search turned up mostly auctions and sales pages, no useful description of this set, so here go some basics for the interested ... Both the red and green light are controlled (...) (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) Thanks, Mat! (...) There are 5 wires for the lights. The common is positive voltage with respect to the 4 output wires. Each light is independently controllable, you could even blink them to simulate certain real world signal conditions. (...) (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) Thank you, John! (...) Each of the lights is independently controllable. You can even instruct the DCC controller to blink the lights in various patterns. I'll be working on software to provide an interlock so that only the red or green can be (...) (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) Thanks, Larry! (...) Presently, I don't have any plans to do so. These actually took more time to create than I'd care to admit! However, much of the time was spent working out the construction details for the prototype. I want to build (...) (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) Mark, these builds are, as always, awsome. One question, do the 4 outputs on the quad conroller have a common return path on the controler? I.E. 5 output wires or 8? Also, are the 4 outputs indepentantly conrolled or only 1 at a time? I've yet (...) (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) As Lar said, very cool! Question: Is each light individually controlled, or is each red/green pair controlled together? (I don't know much about DCC - yet!) And where is the yellow light? <grin> JohnG, GMLTC - thinking our club needs to (...) (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: DCC Controlled Signal
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(...) Wow! Way cool. Spotlighted. So are you going to productise these? (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | DCC Controlled Signal
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The latest in trackside geekness: (URL) Photos and commentary are available at (URL). Cheers, Mark (URL) (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX) !
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| | Re: LEGO and ParLUGment logo flower mosaics
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(...) <snip> (...) Thanks Larry, This is the first real 'mod' (if indeed painting is considered a mod) that I've ever done. I approached it with a bit of trepidation but I deemed it was necessary. As for the details, here they are.... They were (...) (20 years ago, 21-Oct-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: LEGO and ParLUGment logo flower mosaics
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(...) These look really spiffy, even if the painting bit does make me cringe. :-) Spotlighted. XFUT to lugnet.parts.mod because painting is a kind of mod, isn't it? So what kind of paint did you use, and did you have any adhesion problems? (20 years ago, 20-Oct-04, to lugnet.build.mosaic, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | 6 wheeled 9v motor
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I've been woring on an EMD SD-40 eginine. And I wanted to have 6 wheeled motor trucks. But I also wanted it to be able to negotiate turns and switches. So I chopped up a 9v wheel set, modified the side plates for a 9v motor. (URL) I removed the (...) (20 years ago, 7-Oct-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.trains)
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| | Re: Small battery box into 9V powersource?
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"Brian Davis" <brdavis@iusb.edu> wrote in message news:I547MA.6n7@lugnet.com... (...) I'm not that gifted in electronics so my knowledge is limited. I'd use a 9 volt voltage regulator inside the battery box, but I'm guessing there's an easier, more (...) (20 years ago, 5-Oct-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.robotics)
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| | Small battery box into 9V powersource?
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I'd like a small powersource I can plug into a wall, and I've got a small 9V battery box that seems to have gone bad. The idea is to use a standard "wall wart" transformer to feed 9-12V DC into the small battery box. But, with all that lovely room (...) (20 years ago, 5-Oct-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.robotics)
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| | Re: Nice try (was Re: 12-foot bridge built in 2 hours on live TV
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"Mark Riley" <markril@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:I4wyA3.8MI@lugnet.com... (...) Alright, who put the spy cam in my LEGO room *again*...?! (20 years ago, 1-Oct-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Nice try (was Re: 12-foot bridge built in 2 hours on live TV
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(...) Heheh, but you see, Lar has visions of you knee deep in ABS dust with scraps of disfigured LEGO strewn about in every corner of your workshop... :-) Mark (20 years ago, 1-Oct-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Nice try (was Re: 12-foot bridge built in 2 hours on live TV
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"Larry Pieniazek" <larry.(mylastname)@...e.DOT.com> wrote in message news:I4wpyn.tEF@lugnet.com... (...) Scout's honor... I have NEVER cut a baseplate. (20 years ago, 1-Oct-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Nice try (was Re: 12-foot bridge built in 2 hours on live TV
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(...) There is no way you can even try to say that with a straight face, is there? I could hear you snickering even though I'm in GA and you're in AR. Nice try though. (20 years ago, 1-Oct-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: 12-foot bridge built in 2 hours on live TV
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"Larry Pieniazek" <larry.(mylastname)@...e.DOT.com> wrote in message news:I4vxov.1DBD@lugnet.com... (...) Cutting baseplates!? That's sacrilege!!! (20 years ago, 1-Oct-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: 12-foot bridge built in 2 hours on live TV
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(...) That's what Xacto(r) knives are for! ... Er, did I just say that? (20 years ago, 1-Oct-04, to lugnet.build.arch, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: welcome to 'the dark side'
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(...) I'm gonna "me too" on this one. Congratulations on your successfully "repair." C-Ya! Rich (20 years ago, 27-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: welcome to 'the dark side'
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Admitting you have a problem is the first step towards the cure. There's still hope for you yet! Congrats on you first successful mod! I look forward to seeing more from you now. Can't wait for the photos; especially those of dismembered bricks... (...) (20 years ago, 26-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | welcome to 'the dark side'
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Hi, my name is John, and I've modded parts in a big project. (everyone): Hi, John! Yesterday morning featured the whining of the Dremel and the smell of melting ABS, as I worked on repairing the window I messed up in our Plummer Building project. (...) (20 years ago, 26-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: GP-38 MOC
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(...) OK (7 URLs) Mat (20 years ago, 23-Sep-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: GP-38 MOC
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(...) How about some deep links until the folder is made public? Mike (20 years ago, 23-Sep-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | GP-38 MOC
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I know that TLC is coming oout with a BNSF version of this. And that Jake has a version in his train book. But I wanted to do one myself. I had started by building the one in Jake's book. Then I went online and found several great sites for (...) (20 years ago, 23-Sep-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) I have an idea that might work. Since the offending window is near the bottom (2nd floor) attack from that end. You could finish the highest level that is currently on the building so that the top is level. Then turn the whole structure upside (...) (20 years ago, 23-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) I'll let you know after I've fixed it. Several GMLTC club members are going back down to Rochester this Saturday to finish up the building. I'm planning on taking a bunch of close-up pictures of my repair work. And yes, I'm keeping my fingers (...) (20 years ago, 22-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) John, First, how did this come out? Please report back to this post so that others can learn how you dealt with this. Second, your basement is HUGE! Todd (20 years ago, 22-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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"Larry Pieniazek" <larry.(mylastname)@...e.DOT.com> wrote in message news:I4Er9o.u7H@lugnet.com... (...) Suggestion 2 is a good one Lar. I would have suggested that myself. The only caveat would be to be very careful on placement and prying. Some (...) (20 years ago, 22-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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"Larry Pieniazek" <larry.(mylastname)@...e.DOT.com> wrote in message news:I4EtGH.16J4@lugnet.com... (...) Actually, there's another solution. Just send the building to me and I'll make the necessary repairs and ship it back. :P Seriously John, I'd (...) (20 years ago, 22-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) There are "spreader" clamps made for woodworking. Try online at some place like woodcrafters (20 years ago, 22-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) John, First off, Mark's idea of tape is a good one. I've done alot of plastic model building, most from scratch, and this can save you a bit of grief. Without a close up image ofthe windoe area, I'm only guessing. I'd avoid using the Dremel, (...) (20 years ago, 21-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) Um, it was the OTHER one I wanted you to seriously consider, dude... :-) (20 years ago, 21-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) Believe me, I seriously considered this approach! <grin> JohnG, GMLTC (20 years ago, 21-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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In lugnet.parts.mod, John Gerlach wrote: (snip cool link to spiffy building and tale of woe) Two suggestions: 1. Fly Rob Hendrix in. He can fix it. He can mod anything. It may end up with an LED in it somewhere, though, so be warned. 2. Get someone (...) (20 years ago, 21-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) First of all, that's a darned cool building. What a bummer for you to realize only too late that the window's a little off-kilter! Here's a nutty suggestion. Mark already proposed that you make it a feature, but I wonder if you could (...) (20 years ago, 21-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) Make it a feature! You could have one of those handout sheets for kids to find 5 or 10 odd/strange things on the layout - this could be one of them. (...) If you do go ahead with the Dremel thing, you might mask off the immediate area with one (...) (20 years ago, 21-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) Responding to David, Bryan's question is very similar... The building sits on grey baseplates, the baseplates are glued to the plywood base. The base has wheels that will allow it to be moved fairly easily. I don't think it would be possible (...) (20 years ago, 21-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) Is it possible to set the building on its side, and try to get at the window from the bottom? (i.e. peel off the baseplate and start removing chunks of grey) Sorry I don't know anything about modding... -Bryan (20 years ago, 21-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: I need some 'modding' expertise
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(...) I've never created any structure that big, but there's no way to get the brick out? Like, lay that section on its side, with the window on top, and attempt to separate the top and bottom around the window? Of course, this could also lead to an (...) (20 years ago, 21-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | I need some 'modding' expertise
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As many people know, the GMLTC is working on our largest project ever - a Lego version of the Plummer Building in Rochester, Minnesota. When we're done it should be about 7 feet tall, and use an estimated 50,000 bricks. Here's where I need some (...) (20 years ago, 21-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: New Bit...
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(...) I think my favorite Dremel bit is (URL) one (they've also got a similar (URL) that's diamond-coated). I got sick of regular cutoff wheels because of how fragile they are (at least the stone ones, though the fiber-reinforced ones are okay), and (...) (20 years ago, 19-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Remote DCC Switch
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Hi All, As Lar anticipated, combining my recent posts about the (URL) smart motor> and (URL) motorized switch> with a short bit of wire soldered to a switch track, the result is this: (2 URLs) click an image to enlarge The advantage to this is that (...) (20 years ago, 19-Sep-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: New Bit...
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"Mark Riley" <markril@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:I49tH0.1quL@lugnet.com... (...) Indeed! I bet that would chew up some bley bricks! -Rob (20 years ago, 19-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | New Bit...
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(URL) ...Gotta love it! ;-) Mark (20 years ago, 19-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: Smart Motor
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"Mark Riley" <markril@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:I3r1Ez.1wGL@lugnet.com... (...) Crossposted to lugnet.parts.mod - Mmmmmmmm, modding goodness! -Rob (20 years ago, 11-Sep-04, to lugnet.robotics, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: 1x1 round plate light
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(...) But then the Logans Run quote dosent work .. "Run Runner" Certainly no cause to be modest about this one, Fantastic job. Why dont Lego make it damn them. -- James Stacey ------ www.minifig.co.uk Lugnet Member #925 I'm a citizen of Legoland (...) (20 years ago, 5-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Gene Moran please contact me!
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Your mod is ready! I sent you an email last week to the address you provided with no reply. Please contact me ASAP for further information. Thanks! Rob Hendrix (20 years ago, 4-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.people)
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| | Re: 1x1 round plate light
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(...) Wouldn't that me Mod, modder, modest? Though there isn't any point in being modest about this. Next he'll manage to light up the lightsaber bar all alone. ;) -Alfred (20 years ago, 1-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: 1x1 round plate light
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(...) Now that is just plain cool. (20 years ago, 1-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: 1x1 round plate light
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(...) "Mod, modder, mod!" (20 years ago, 1-Sep-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: 1x1 round plate light
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(...) Holy brickmods Batman! Seriously, that's sick (in a good way). Jeff (20 years ago, 30-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: 1x1 round plate light
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(...) Holy shades of Logan's run, modman! :) That's incredible. Steve (20 years ago, 30-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: 1x1 round plate light
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(...) Dude...you need to exfoliate your hand. You've got some seriously scabbage going on there. Oh, and the light's pretty neat, too. ;P I'm guessing this means you could convert this design over so your Stormtroopers wouldn't need to be wired to (...) (20 years ago, 30-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: 1x1 round plate light
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(...) will it stick on a stud? if not then you SUCK! haha just kidding. this is friggin awesome! -lenyu (20 years ago, 30-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Custom signalman (LED mod!)
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(rearranged, a little cutting, a little tucking, you know...) (...) Well NOW it is. So XFUTted.. :-) (...) Are you scaring my "what" yet? :-) No, I'm not scared. Shocked and awed maybe, in utter amazement at your 1337ness perhaps, but scared? Na... (...) (20 years ago, 30-Aug-04, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: 1x1 round plate light
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(...) WOW, Jimi (re:Rob) you are the master of modding..... I just repeated what my son said, but unfortunately can not type *that* here. I will say, I am blown away, and I can not believe you managed to go so small! Absolutely incredible...... (...) (20 years ago, 30-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | 1x1 round plate light
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(URL) remember the "challenge" from Lar somewhere on Lugnet a long time ago. I finally found the right sized batteries. I'll explain the ON/OFF switch one day, maybe. Maybe not. It's a nice trade secret... ;) -Rob www.brickmodder.net (20 years ago, 30-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod) !!
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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(...) I took a standard valve stem cap, cut the tip so it was flush in the brick and hot glued it into the 2x2 brick. (...) Those were given out at one of the previous BrickFest, 2002 I believe. (...) I wash them....a lot. jt (20 years ago, 26-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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(...) OK, as another Dodge Truck owner, I must ask: Is the 2X2 threaded, or did you just superglue it to the existing cap? Where did you get the brick bumper sticker? How do you keep the brake dust off your wheels? :) Darrell (20 years ago, 26-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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Thanks guys, that does sound pretty effective. And my wife will be happy that I don't need to go out and buy a new power tool! Best, - Joe (20 years ago, 25-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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(...) An alternate method: Use 1957 bricks :) Eric (20 years ago, 25-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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(...) I concur with Rob's method, that is the exact same way that I removed the tube from 2x2 bricks when I made my (URL) custom valve stem caps>, works great and is easy to do. jt (20 years ago, 25-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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"Joe Strout" <joe@strout.net> wrote in message news:I30Ju4.1MIp@lugnet.com... (...) Honestly, what I do is a little brute force , but it works nicely. Take a small pair of needle nose pliers and grip the cylinder in such a manner that one jaw of (...) (20 years ago, 25-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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I tried my very first part mod today -- my objective was to drill a clean hole in the side of a 2x2 brick, and then remove the center cylinder from the inside of the brick so I have room to stuff some things therein. The hole in the side of the (...) (20 years ago, 25-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Unfortuneatly the drips of solder would not stick to each other, so unless you put a few drops of glue in afterwards to hold it all togather, you'd loos you weights. But this isn't a bad solution. It would fill the brick near solid, and the (...) (20 years ago, 19-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Thanks guys, This will do nicely. I've used theis alloy before, but had no idea where to buy more. Mat (20 years ago, 19-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Mark, The old hollow brick sounds OK, but I'd want them in new looking black ABS, or dark grey. Besides, once I glue it shut, the world will never know! Trust me I know how to use a dremel. I've seen your work, very nice. I 've also made train (...) (20 years ago, 19-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) It's not just after handling it that you need to worry about. The acid in your skin will leech trace amounts from the surface, and you'll absorb it through your skin. You'd need to go out of your way to poison yourself in this manner, but you (...) (20 years ago, 18-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Yes, always wash your hands after handling solder! (...) I see the melting point of standard solder (63% tin, 37% lead) is 183 deg C. If I held a soldering iron and a reel of solder over an invered brick and dripped molten solder into the (...) (20 years ago, 18-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: BrickFest Friday - some photos
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(...) Rob is good at holding his piece and keeping his eyes safe from his tool. --Todd (20 years ago, 18-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: BrickFest Friday - some photos
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"Todd Lehman" <tsl@tsl.bu.edu> wrote in message news:I2J01C.G00@lugnet.com... (...) Sequence" at (...) tool (...) emulate (...) Redbeard (...) Had you guys attended my Brick Modification Seminar, you would have learned about such things as proper (...) (20 years ago, 18-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Lead is usually added in a very small amount to make it flow into fine detail better. It's probably only a few percent lead content, so handling it wouldn't bear anywhere near the same risk of lead poisoning that handling pure lead does. (...) (...) (20 years ago, 17-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) I know there is tin in it, but lead - dont know. Its melting point should be a little above 100C. A friend of mine tells, that there should not be Cadmium in it, as Cadmium is toxic. (In our case they would probably end in a model rather than (...) (20 years ago, 17-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: BrickFest Friday - some photos
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(...) Of course, after posting the previous message, I realized I probably should have also mentioned using padded jaws to hold extremely small pieces rather than your fingers. Figured the opportunity to correct that would present itself in short (...) (20 years ago, 16-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: BrickFest Friday - some photos
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(...) Eye protection...hmm...that's a really good point. Hey, ask Rob about the time he drilled his thumb and had to get 22 stitches. ;-) --Todd (20 years ago, 16-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: BrickFest Friday - some photos
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(...) One can only hope that someone will caption the "Bejesus Drilling Sequence" at some point (and issue a caution to never, ever use the rotary cutting tool without eye protection unlike the Genius Rob who is apparently trying to emulate the (...) (20 years ago, 16-Aug-04, to lugnet.events.brickfest, lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | BrickFest Friday - some photos
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A few photos from Friday... (URL) only got an hour of sleep Thursday night and didn't feel much like taking tons of photos yesterday. There are some nice shots of Rob Hendrix drilling the bejesus out of Episode VI Luke and Episode I Jar-Jar. Check (...) (20 years ago, 14-Aug-04, to lugnet.events.brickfest, lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.starwars)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) that it might as well not be radioactive (half-life of 19*10^18 years), is the only non-toxic heavy metal (aside from the radioactivity, but you probably get that much radiation standing under direct sunlight) and combines easily with (...) (20 years ago, 13-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Better still, avoid the dremel by buying second hand some old 2x4s, which have no tubes underneath. Fill with plasticine or similar denser material that doesn't get too hot (i.e. not solder), leaving 1.6mm depth free for the studs of the brick (...) (20 years ago, 13-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: cool lighted lightsabre
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(...) That's interesting, I hadn't seen those before. Thanks for pointing them out! You're right, these mods are pretty amazing! The one on eBay has an advantage in terms of versatility -- no batteries (well, unless that's how you power your whole (...) (20 years ago, 13-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Look at my page under Modifications (URL) go direktly there by this link: (URL) also have some cars 34 studs long (7 wide), and I am playing around with a new luggage car 16-20 studs long. Look under Createtions - Trains - there are a number (...) (20 years ago, 13-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: cool lighted lightsabre
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(...) I much prefer the designs of (URL) Rob Hendrix>. He's gotten them packed in to the point where the minifig and lightsaber look completely unmodified until you turn them on, and they run off of internal batteries so you don't need to hide any (...) (20 years ago, 13-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Lead fishing weights will weigh more than copper BBs, and you might be able to build custom molds so you can melt weights and form them so they'll fit into an unmodified brick, both inside the tubes and in the larger cavity. (...) If you don't (...) (20 years ago, 13-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: custom electric parts?
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(...) One doesn't. All one needs to do is prop a bucket full of bricks on top of one's door. The burgler provides all of the loud sound effects gratis (well, you hope it's gratis...). ;P (20 years ago, 13-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.off-topic.fun)
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| | cool lighted lightsabre
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Just saw this on eBay: (URL) It's a modified lightsabre that actually glows! You can change the color of the light in the base between red and white, and of course, you can put any color sabre on it you want (even comes with a custom white sabre). (...) (20 years ago, 13-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Silkscreening parts
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(...) I heard back from my friend Lee in email today: In mike's.email.inbox, Lee wrote: (...) Apparently my memory of it costing $30 was from the art school resale boards. I found the product website here: (URL) be a month or so before I have time (...) (20 years ago, 13-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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"Mathew Clayson" <mathew_impact1@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:I2Cwvo.155L@lugnet.com... (...) fill it (...) to (...) to (...) colors (...) plates? A (...) I've built subassemblies and filled them with pennies to use for lift bridge weights. (...) (20 years ago, 12-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: custom electric parts?
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"Joe Strout" <joe@strout.net> wrote in message news:joe-31DD12.1701...net.com... (...) Start here. This is a good place to find alternate contact methods and a plethora of sensors and electronic circuits: (URL) (20 years ago, 12-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.parts.custom)
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| | Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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Has anyone made thier own weight bricks? My thought was to hollow out the bottom of a brick with a dremel, then fill it with BBs. And finally glue a plate across the bottom. This could be useful to add weight to some of my smaller train MOCs, where (...) (20 years ago, 12-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.trains)
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| | Re: custom electric parts?
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(...) The only thing I've done is to add LEDs. Cutting a 9v jumper came first. But I can't aford to do that to often. Either way, I'd love to see more of this as well. Mat (20 years ago, 12-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.parts.custom)
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| | custom electric parts?
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Has anyone seen instructions, schematics, plans, rough sketches on napkins, etc. for custom electric LEGO parts? LEGO seems to be getting out of the electronics business, which is a shame IMHO. The available selection is quite limited (and pricey (...) (20 years ago, 12-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.parts.custom)
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