Subject:
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Re: Heavily modified 8880 chassis, succesfully motorised and solar powered.
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.technic
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Date:
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Fri, 14 Feb 2003 07:24:27 GMT
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Viewed:
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2061 times
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In lugnet.technic, Gillis Hommen writes:
> In lugnet.technic, Robert Fay writes:
> > I think it is time to consider a lighter chassis. Your project is getting
> > rather pricey. Maybe some voltage regulation would protect the Lego motor.
> > The Lego Capacitor and regulators are very good for that. Their output is
> > 2.5 volts, so you would have to set them up as series outputs. Being that
> > your not transporting the supply, you can afford the extra weight. Good
> > luck!
>
> If I want to keep all the features (4wd, gearbox, suspension), which I do,
> the chassis can't be very much lighter than it is now. Besides, that's just
> not the direction I want to go. Thing is, I really want to use a better
> motor. The lego motor is rated for about 1 watt of mechanical power(and uses
> 3, efficiency is horrible), and with the solar panel producing 9+ watts, it
> doesn't make sense to keep using it. With a better, more powerful, more
> efficient motor the car will be able to go much faster, and that is
> precisely the direction I want to go. The price is a problem, but I'll be
> prepared to pay a good amount for a good motor if I really have to. This is
> not just a school project, it's my ambition too you know. :)
Or you could put in additional LEGO motors to share the power and load.
If you buy a non-LEGO motor you will also face the sometimes difficult task of
attaching it to LEGO. You might need to glue bricks to the body so it can be
attached, the glue has to be temperature resistant. Heck, the motor might even
get warmer then what's healthy for your bricks. Not to mention the problems
with fitting a LEGO compatible gadget on the driveshaft that won't split in two
when the power is turned on. The bottle neck will move else where and the LEGO
will prove pretty weak.
You will also need to put the drive shaft in the correct distance if you are to
use gears directly on it. A good way might be using rubber bands and pulleys
since they don't require precise alignment. I don't think the LEGO chain could
handle the stress.
Still, I'd like to see when you reach the speed where the limiting factor will
be yourself, when the car is going faster then you can run along with the solar
panel ripping :)
Best regards,
/Tobbe
http://www.lotek.nu
(remove SPAM when e-mailing)
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