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Hi all! In the past we have collected some demands we train heads have on driver wheels. These have been requested several times at TLC so far. Here comes the wishlist to make up a draft for a new driver wheel: 1.) technic axle center 2.) peg hole (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX) !!
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DROOO...OOOooo...ooolll...lll Slurp....... Mark (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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In lugnet.trains, Reinhard "Ben" Beneke wrote: (snipped the whole message) Very nice, but unless you're doing some tricks I can't see in your image, your example locomotive won't be able to handle corners. You won't be able to put three of these (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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awsome!! dude this simply rocks. Anyway a few minor points. Have it molded in black as it is more realistic in the USA and in red for the Europeans. Also drive rods! I have never seen a drive rod that is realistic to the squared off shape of the (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Forget abou running behaviour for the moment: I just wanted to have an impression about the "feeling" of these wheels. How do they look like in a LEGO® engine. For a real model it would need blind drivers or a steering mechanism like here: (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Hi Ondrew! Thanks for the praise! (...) Of course! But since I designed it I wanted to have a start in red. ;-) (...) I think there are other parts you could use: pneumatik tube, Flex-Stuff from the 90ies LEGO® technic, and other parts - Just (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Like I said, when can I get a couple dozen in black? I don't see a problem with a third-party product if the quality is good. I can definitely forsee having to explain to *everyone* who looks at our train layout that these wheels are NOT a (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) I like these criteria, and since we're talking about a MOLD not a part, color is irrelevant, it can be molded in grey or black or red or whatever... I can live with red as the first color run as long as we know another color is coming behind (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Ben, One thing that would be really nice that LEGO also doesn't provide is a way to pick up track power other than the motor wheels. Now that would be a tricky proposition with the design you came up with. How about a wheel truck similar to (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Hi Rosco! Empty out a new motor (25$) or a defected one (<10$) and you have your power pick up.... And everything is pure LEGO®. ;-) Leg Godt! (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Well maybe not, let me change my vote then. (...) I would prefer that LEGO do this. But if LEGO won't do it, then yes I would go third party. As some of you know, there has been some amazing molding done by Jeff ("Little Armory") Byrd to fill (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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I have it on good information that a third party supplier will soon be sending out a set of custom drive wheels meeting many of these criteria to a select group of AFOL train builders for evaluation. Cheers Ben Fleskes (...) <snip> (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) True, or get somebody with (CNC) lathe access to do this :D I'd prefer a wheel with counterweight. It might even help protect the part against distortion, since due to the spokes the part might otherwise be somewhat fragile. (...) Let me know (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Hmmm, Any chance that one could coerce you to mention to your good informer that someone (ahem) would love to find his name (ahem) among said group? Seriously ... I'd love to have the opportunity to play with a couple of these. Drive wheels (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) All right, I'm willing to risk some ridicule for not knowing this. What is the purpose of the counterweight? Is it to balance the load of the drive rod, so that the wheel never has to "lift" and weight, per se? What is the "weight" like? A (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Counterweights were used on real steam engines to compensate the weight of the connection to the rod, so that the wheel would be in balance again. Without, or with incorrect counterweight, at higher speeds there would be a significant (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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Hi Ben, many thanks for sharing this "new part". Your design is well thought-throw and it would be "THE" addition to train parts. Hopefully there will be someone somewhere reading your article who is able to bring this piece into reality? 1000grüße (...) (21 years ago, 28-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) -some more comments- Not all loco's got it right- the AAR formula used for a period of time to devise counterweight weight was out to lunch- IIRC, the Florida East Coast suffered this badly with some 4-8-4's. Counterweighting and ballancing (...) (21 years ago, 29-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) This is something i have spent hours working out (in my mind) as I walk the dog every night! My conclusions end up lookin pretty much the same as yours (...) Yes (...) yes (...) How did you reach this? (...) yes (...) do you mean the gap (...) (21 years ago, 29-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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I suspect that you have to do the same explaining when someone comments on the gorgeous monorails that many clubs use in their layouts... "Oh that? It is a bunch of monorail set and parts from the lat 80's - but Lego no longer produces them..." (...) (21 years ago, 29-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains)
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Ben, Great work here - this is simply gorgeous. -- Bryan "Reinhard "Ben" Beneke" <ben@1000steine.SPAM-block.com> wrote in message news:HnHCu2.1BBt@lugnet.com... (...) (21 years ago, 29-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Ben - I may have missed something. What did Brad say 'no' to? Moulding this specific part, or big drivers in general? I really like the look of this part, and everyone knows we all want drivers, but I think the spokes seem a bit thin and may (...) (21 years ago, 29-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Hi Jason! He said "no" for any drivers in general. :-( (...) Have a look at this: (URL) On the left hand is a wheel from 396 etc. And I never saw a broken one. My spokes are twice as thick as these old one have been. (...) Have not measured it (...) (21 years ago, 29-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) From your own picture, eyeballing the measurement by holding pencils up to the wheel and the ties below it and so forth, I get that the hub diameter is just a smidgeon below 4 studs across, while Jason of the green engine wants 3, which (...) (21 years ago, 29-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) I'm coming to the same conclusion, I was originally envisaging a bit larger. But the large size of the flanges makes the dimensions you have to take into account for footplate height much larger than on a 'scale' model. The size ben has chosen (...) (21 years ago, 29-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Given 5 bricks=6 ft (a minifig), then 5 bricks is if anything, midrange. engines I have data on here- 8P (DoG) was 74", a UP FEF was 80", J is 70", German 05 is 90", NYC J3A 79", GWR Castle 80", German P8 69" So, a 5 stud diameter looks about (...) (21 years ago, 30-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Well the only 3 reasons I can think are: 1. Mounts on a Technic axle 2. has hole to attach connecting rod 3. has optional counterweight None of which I think the 7750 wheel has 8?) ROSCO (21 years ago, 30-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) How many of those are high speed passenger locos though? In terms of population density, low speed freight locos were much more predominant and they had smaller drivers. (21 years ago, 30-Oct-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Most of the above are passenger- DoG is a one off. But, the P8 was a bit more than a make up- there were 3800 of them built. :). Also, when you look at the UK, 9F's have a 60" dia wheel, which is small for most mainline locos- and I am (...) (20 years ago, 1-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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"Bryan Kinkel" <helpdesk@loseyourmind.com> wrote in message news:HnIs02.Axq@lugnet.com... (...) [ ... snipped ... ] When we have the NCLTC layout on display we deal with this one all of the time. Of course, to make matters worse and generate more (...) (20 years ago, 2-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Speak for yourself... :-) The other thing this ignores is that a lot of steam trains (the Castle class certainly) had the main drivers going up through a slot in the sole-plate. That's why they have wheel arches, and why British steam (...) (20 years ago, 2-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Hi Tim! ??You are asking why I demand this (bigger than set 7750 and smaller than set 396)? Both sizes do exist. So I see no highly urgent need for those. The size inbetween is not only a compromise, but in my eyes the golden center. (...) (...) (20 years ago, 3-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) A third party wheel CLEARLY could NOT have the LEGO logo on it... so your solution of sizing an opening to let the user insert a 1x1 round plate (and thus having the logo on there if they wish) is absolutely brilliant. It ALSO leaves the door (...) (20 years ago, 3-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) I'd missed the fact that the 'cover' could be a 1X1 round, that is a veryy good idea. One of my misgivings with a cover was the fact of outside framed locos so this would be best all round Tim (20 years ago, 4-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Sorry, I wasn't saying that I though that this was the wrong size, just wondering how you arrived at it. (...) Yes, I should have looked better at the images. The ring aroung the middle of the pin (or where the middle of the pin would be if it (...) (20 years ago, 4-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) snip One question, I can't really tell from the images: Is the distance between the axle hole and the peg hole a standard stud distance? JohnG, GMLTC (20 years ago, 5-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Good question! It "arguably" doesn't matter as much as some distances though, unless you plan to mount something between them. In many applications you just have the main rod and or connecting rod to deal with and the eccentricity they have is (...) (20 years ago, 5-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Well, I know how pointless it would be to "argue" with Lar (grin), but it would seem silly to not have this be a standard distance. I could easily imagine using a Technic cam or 1x3 liftarm on a wheel. (John frantically searching for FTX (...) (20 years ago, 5-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) (URL) Hi John, thanks for bringing up this question! I was thinking about this for a while myself and I decided to do it in a distance of 8 mm (which is same as two stud centers next to each other on a 1x2 brick - or holes in a technick beam.) (...) (20 years ago, 5-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Oh, that's exactly what I was hoping for. Thanks!! Now, as I brought up several days ago -- can I get a dozen in black? :-) JohnG, GMLTC (20 years ago, 5-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Ya I agree. I was only saying that in the universe of design decisions, some matter more than others and this one matters less. But Ben's design does indeed use a standard distance... (...) I look for that reference a lot too. I find it this (...) (20 years ago, 5-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Sorry,I have not had time to read all of the posts on this subject. I would love to see TLC make these wheels. But, I don't think that they ever will. SADLY ,the 12v era has gone. Even though 12v wheels still work fine on 9v .rails. Being this (...) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Another few issues with clearances - I wonder if you've considered all these... It looks to me as though if you did use a centre round plate, a coupling rod would have a hard time clearing the stud. Not a problem to leave it off though. (...) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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In lugnet.trains, Teunis Davey wrote: <snip> (...) To answer your question, Yes. Based on some 'inside' information, somebody is making train drive wheels. I've heard they will be available for purchase certainly before christmas. It leaves me (...) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) I'll toss out a number: $10 for a pair of them... Of course that means I'd be paying $60 for enough of them to rebuild my Challenger! :-) Whatever, it's only money. I've already spent a bunch on other BrickLink orders for parts, why not spend (...) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) Oh yea, and another $40 for the 4-8-4 #261 I'm working on... ;-) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) well... something more than what I am getting parts for out of the 3033's I bought on sale ( about 1.2 cents a piece) and something less than what I paid for my last service pack of larger drivers. I can't find the number for it offhand, (...) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) This seems a pretty reasonable price (from the market point of view, I don't know about production costs) especially when compared to the price of the large spoked wheel. On bricklink at the moment the cheapest is $4 for a pair and the average (...) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) No it doesn't they are bricks with wheels, not wheels attached to bricks. :-) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) It's can only be an educated guess but further to this does anyone have an idea of the quantities that would sell. While a lot of AFOLS seem to have an unlimited budget many don't (like myself!) thus while I would like about 12 axles/24 (...) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) That's why you'd need an extra pair of wheels to show people at train shows. Have a business card (or a link on your website) to the Bricklink store where ??? is selling them. Make it simple for people to get these, and I think they'd become (...) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) All good ideas! Heck, GREAT ideas. The keychain ones could be the ones that got rejected for being poorly formed or out of round or whatever... Pardon me while I dip into "fantasy mode"... Suppose LEGO themselves got behind third party efforts (...) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) With such prices I'd only buy those I'd need right away, and certainly none to stock "in case" If OTOH it would be around $5 per pair, I'd easily buy 20-30 pairs, just to make sure I don't run out. (Somewhere in my head I've got plans for a (...) (20 years ago, 6-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) It's hard to tell what a "fair" price is, because I have no idea what the tooling cost will be, nor how many of them can be realistically sold at which price point. I would like to buy three to six pairs of them, maybe more, but that depends (...) (20 years ago, 7-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) I don't think that the fair price for an item that can be produced in almost unlimited quantity (and in fact will have to be produced in large quantity to create return on investment) can reasonably be compared to the price for a collector's (...) (20 years ago, 7-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) I would buy 12 axels, in all three colours !! Red , Black & Gray. Total 36 axels @ $10us each ??? = $360us ??? But, for me to spend that sort of money the design would have to be perfected. So that they work perfectly on 9v & 12v rails. And (...) (20 years ago, 7-Nov-03, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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