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Over the Xmas holidays, I'm hoping to start work on my medieval village. The cornerstone of this village will be a big castle (around 3 storeys) on a mountain of BURPS around 2 storeys high. My quandary for which I seek seasoned castle-builders' (...) (25 years ago, 2-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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(...) I guess one question you need to ask is how static/dynamic do you want your model to be? Are you going to be moving people around on a daily basis or are you going to just let it be for months on end. If your model is going to be dynamic, (...) (25 years ago, 2-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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(...) Well, unfortunately, it's gonna have to be a combination of static and dynamic, i.e. static in the ~3 month periods I'm off at Uni, but dynamic for the 1 month holidays when I get to play, play, play! I hadn't thought of doing a hing on just (...) (25 years ago, 2-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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(...) Now I can't really say I am a "castle architect" because I have just started modeling castle themed buildings but I just completed (Minus about 12 arches I am still in search of) a small Church/Chapel and I used a different technique all (...) (25 years ago, 2-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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<SNIP> (...) dynamic, (...) month (...) Combine all three methods. Use option 3 for the BURP level. ie lift the castle portion off the BURPs, and the use options 1 or 2 for just the castle levels. Dan M. (25 years ago, 2-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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<SNIP> (...) Which arches do you need? (...) into the walls. Do you run into any trouble during the actual snapping of the two sections together? (...) Good Point -- Do you have any idea what the width and depth is going to be? (...) I definitely (...) (25 years ago, 2-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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(...) What I need are... 11 1x4x1 Gray Arches 1 1x6x1 Gray Arch I did notice that the Large "Moo Men" set for next year has quite a few of both. This catalog scan has the best picture. Look at the model on the right side of the pic. (URL) anyone has (...) (25 years ago, 2-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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(...) I'd certainly agree... size is everything. The larger a model is, the more difficult it becomes to modify it. And it sounds like you're planning a pretty big model (being more than 30 bricks in height). Hence, I'd argue for either the open (...) (25 years ago, 2-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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(...) Avoid that at all costs, it takes away so much from the overall architecture. (...) That worked for my castle and some of my town buildings. Its very stable and movable. (...) Very easily knocked over, bumped or simply falls out of place, (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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(...) Perhaps the use of plates resting on tiles may work. For example, the room below could be 8x10 (studs). Assuming you provide the proper supports, you could have a room above that's 6x8, fit inside the room below. I'm not sure if you get what I (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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(...) This sounds similar to the Night Lord's Castle Tower setup. It is resting between two support bricks that run the length of the tower's base, a table at the front, a fortified wall behind offering support, on top of a pair of tiles that are 1 (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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(...) I've been building my modular castles this way since I was a kid. But instead of simply having the removable room nestled between supports or held down by anchors, I make the walls of the room uneven on the bottom, with the ceiling of the room (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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I'd go with the hinges. It's always an impressive engineering feat, and that way you really have *two* castles -- an 360-degree viewable castle for display (in unopened position), and a double-big cut-away castle to show off the interior. Better (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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Oooh, an underground dungeon would be so cool!!! -- Paul Davidson, aka Tinman www.theforce.net | Your Daily Dose of Star Wars www.filmforce.net | Your Daily Dose of Film News David Eaton <deaton@intdata.com> wrote in message (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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(...) Someone mentioned Technic pins, which I think is the best way to go for large modular constructions--could you build it in six or seven vertically-integrated sections that then link together with Technic pins? That way you could pull it apart (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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In lugnet.castle, David Eaton writes: <snip> (...) Magnets would be interesting indeed! They're quite strong, and you don't hafta line them up perfectly like technic pins. However, you might have trouble lining them up horizontally for use in a (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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(...) vertically-integrated (...) it (...) organic (...) My new castle is using the Technic pins, it has six modules. The size of the foundation, which is 13 bricks high, 2 burps high all around, is 4.5x4.5 baseplates (144x144 studs). There are 3 (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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| | Re: Castle structure advice taken
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OK, first of all thanks to everybody who responded to my original post. The discussion was extremely helpful, and gave an interesting look into how a lot of you build larger structures. After various considerations, I think the Technic-peg connected (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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I like the "technic pins" approach. In my as yet unfinished, and shelved for some 17 months now, massive grey station project, I used these. The station splits into three pieces along carefully planned fault lines. These lines run up the window (...) (25 years ago, 4-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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