Subject:
|
Re: Castle structure advice...
|
Newsgroups:
|
lugnet.castle
|
Date:
|
Fri, 3 Dec 1999 07:29:46 GMT
|
Viewed:
|
1180 times
|
| |
|
|
Oooh, an underground dungeon would be so cool!!!
--
Paul Davidson, aka Tinman
www.theforce.net | Your Daily Dose of Star Wars
www.filmforce.net | Your Daily Dose of Film News
David Eaton <deaton@intdata.com> wrote in message
news:FM4DJD.1Dt@lugnet.com...
> In lugnet.castle, Eric Kingsley writes:
> > In lugnet.castle, Stuart Curtis writes:
> > > Over the Xmas holidays, I'm hoping to start work on my medieval village. • The
> > > cornerstone of this village will be a big castle (around 3 storeys) on a
> > > mountain of BURPS around 2 storeys high. My quandary for which I seek
> > > seasoned castle-builders' advice is: how to provide access to the
> > > castle/mountain's interior. The three possibilities I have come up with • are:
> > >
> > > 1) Cross-section/open-back, like most Town buildings.
> > >
> > > 2) Hinges halfway across the structure to open it in two sections.
> > >
> > > 3) Plates on top of each storey, so that each floor can be removed.
> > >
> > > Each one has its own pro's and con's of course, so I was just hoping to • get a
> > > few opinions from other castle architects before I decide which way to • go.
> >
> > Now I can't really say I am a "castle architect" because I have just • started
> > modeling castle themed buildings but I just completed (Minus about 12 • arches I
> > am still in search of) a small Church/Chapel and I used a different • technique
> > all together. I don't know how much this will help you because you are
> > creating a much larger structure. What I did was I created the Church in • 2
> > sections (front and back) and used 1x1 Technic Beams with Technic pins to • hold
> > the 2 sections together. This allows me to have access to the interior • while
> > still having a solid 4 walled building for display because the beams • blend
> > into the walls.
> >
> > For something as big as what you are planning I guess I would suggest the
> > Hinge solution if the model is going to be deep. If it is going to be a
> > shallow model option 1 might work great. I just find that the deeper the
> > model the harder it is to reach your arm in to make modifications.
> >
> > I think your 3rd options has merits for smaller models but for larger,
> > heavier, models I don't particularly like the idea because there seems to • be
> > more of a chance for disaster when removing levels.
>
> I'd certainly agree... size is everything. The larger a model is, the more
> difficult it becomes to modify it. And it sounds like you're planning a • pretty
> big model (being more than 30 bricks in height). Hence, I'd argue for • either
> the open backed or hinged methods.
>
> But being the "realist" that I am, I'd go with the hinged method rather • than
> the open-back method, just so it can appear as though it is a solid, • complete
> model. Of course, the biggest issue there would be hinging the burp wall • (I'd
> guess), primarily because I'd assume that it will slope upwards gradually,
> making hinging extremely difficult to impliment.. You'd have to hinge it • only
> at the bottom, which would make it weaker :( . So what I'd probably • recommend
> is just making the castle itself hinged, and oversize the burp mountain
> slightly to allow for support for an opened wall. Or have the castle
> removable... You could also give it a more "realistic" effect by • overlapping a
> burp here and there over the lower castle walls to make it look more like • it
> was built "into" the rock; then have the overlapping burps break away in • order
> to un-hinge the castle. Also, if you're looking to hide the hinges, that'd • also
> help.
>
> Also, I think I'd say hinge it in multiple places. Having one hinge in the
> middle might make for a still difficult-to-access model... of course that
> depends on how wide the actual structures are, and how big the model is • all
> together...
>
> ...[ponders a second longer]...
> Hmm... the solution to making the mountain somewhat more modular would be • doing
> something like what Eric's talking about with the technic connectors • actually
> connecting the structure... The problem being that convincing many technic • pins
> to connect on such a large model is tough... I wonder if magnets might • pose a
> solution? You'd need hideous amounts of them, but it WOULD make the • underground
> dungeons/vaults at least visible/accessible... I'm guessing about 10-20 on • each
> side of a massive connection? Or I suppose you could do what Eric did with • his
> rebel base-- just have a few bricks on the exterior of the burps that • serve as
> "locks" to keep it together... again, you'd need a fair number of them to • keep
> it stable, but at least it could still be modular... Yeah, the more I • think
> about it, I think I'd go with that method rather than hinging, just to • make
> construction a bit easier (dont have to keep hinges in alignment, keep • walls
> flat on the hinged area, etc).... Magnets would be interesting though... • but
> probably not as good...
>
> Anyway, some thoughts...
>
> DaveE
|
|
Message is in Reply To:
 | | Re: Castle structure advice...
|
| (...) I'd certainly agree... size is everything. The larger a model is, the more difficult it becomes to modify it. And it sounds like you're planning a pretty big model (being more than 30 bricks in height). Hence, I'd argue for either the open (...) (25 years ago, 2-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
|
19 Messages in This Thread:
 
  
- Entire Thread on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
|
|
|
|
