Subject:
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Re: Castle structure advice...
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.castle
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Date:
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Thu, 2 Dec 1999 15:26:01 GMT
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Viewed:
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1321 times
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In lugnet.castle, Eric Kingsley writes:
> In lugnet.castle, Stuart Curtis writes:
> > Over the Xmas holidays, I'm hoping to start work on my medieval village. The
> > cornerstone of this village will be a big castle (around 3 storeys) on a
> > mountain of BURPS around 2 storeys high. My quandary for which I seek
> > seasoned castle-builders' advice is: how to provide access to the
> > castle/mountain's interior. The three possibilities I have come up with are:
> >
> > 1) Cross-section/open-back, like most Town buildings.
> >
> > 2) Hinges halfway across the structure to open it in two sections.
> >
> > 3) Plates on top of each storey, so that each floor can be removed.
> >
> > Each one has its own pro's and con's of course, so I was just hoping to get a
> > few opinions from other castle architects before I decide which way to go.
>
> Now I can't really say I am a "castle architect" because I have just started
> modeling castle themed buildings but I just completed (Minus about 12 arches I
> am still in search of) a small Church/Chapel and I used a different technique
> all together. I don't know how much this will help you because you are
> creating a much larger structure. What I did was I created the Church in 2
> sections (front and back) and used 1x1 Technic Beams with Technic pins to hold
> the 2 sections together. This allows me to have access to the interior while
> still having a solid 4 walled building for display because the beams blend
> into the walls.
>
> For something as big as what you are planning I guess I would suggest the
> Hinge solution if the model is going to be deep. If it is going to be a
> shallow model option 1 might work great. I just find that the deeper the
> model the harder it is to reach your arm in to make modifications.
>
> I think your 3rd options has merits for smaller models but for larger,
> heavier, models I don't particularly like the idea because there seems to be
> more of a chance for disaster when removing levels.
I'd certainly agree... size is everything. The larger a model is, the more
difficult it becomes to modify it. And it sounds like you're planning a pretty
big model (being more than 30 bricks in height). Hence, I'd argue for either
the open backed or hinged methods.
But being the "realist" that I am, I'd go with the hinged method rather than
the open-back method, just so it can appear as though it is a solid, complete
model. Of course, the biggest issue there would be hinging the burp wall (I'd
guess), primarily because I'd assume that it will slope upwards gradually,
making hinging extremely difficult to impliment.. You'd have to hinge it only
at the bottom, which would make it weaker :( . So what I'd probably recommend
is just making the castle itself hinged, and oversize the burp mountain
slightly to allow for support for an opened wall. Or have the castle
removable... You could also give it a more "realistic" effect by overlapping a
burp here and there over the lower castle walls to make it look more like it
was built "into" the rock; then have the overlapping burps break away in order
to un-hinge the castle. Also, if you're looking to hide the hinges, that'd also
help.
Also, I think I'd say hinge it in multiple places. Having one hinge in the
middle might make for a still difficult-to-access model... of course that
depends on how wide the actual structures are, and how big the model is all
together...
...[ponders a second longer]...
Hmm... the solution to making the mountain somewhat more modular would be doing
something like what Eric's talking about with the technic connectors actually
connecting the structure... The problem being that convincing many technic pins
to connect on such a large model is tough... I wonder if magnets might pose a
solution? You'd need hideous amounts of them, but it WOULD make the underground
dungeons/vaults at least visible/accessible... I'm guessing about 10-20 on each
side of a massive connection? Or I suppose you could do what Eric did with his
rebel base-- just have a few bricks on the exterior of the burps that serve as
"locks" to keep it together... again, you'd need a fair number of them to keep
it stable, but at least it could still be modular... Yeah, the more I think
about it, I think I'd go with that method rather than hinging, just to make
construction a bit easier (dont have to keep hinges in alignment, keep walls
flat on the hinged area, etc).... Magnets would be interesting though... but
probably not as good...
Anyway, some thoughts...
DaveE
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Message has 2 Replies:
 | | Re: Castle structure advice...
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| Oooh, an underground dungeon would be so cool!!! -- Paul Davidson, aka Tinman www.theforce.net | Your Daily Dose of Star Wars www.filmforce.net | Your Daily Dose of Film News David Eaton <deaton@intdata.com> wrote in message (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
| | | Re: Castle structure advice...
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| In lugnet.castle, David Eaton writes: <snip> (...) Magnets would be interesting indeed! They're quite strong, and you don't hafta line them up perfectly like technic pins. However, you might have trouble lining them up horizontally for use in a (...) (25 years ago, 3-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: Castle structure advice...
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| (...) Now I can't really say I am a "castle architect" because I have just started modeling castle themed buildings but I just completed (Minus about 12 arches I am still in search of) a small Church/Chapel and I used a different technique all (...) (25 years ago, 2-Dec-99, to lugnet.castle)
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