Subject:
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Re: City blocks
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.town
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Date:
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Sat, 21 Sep 2002 05:21:53 GMT
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Viewed:
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564 times
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Benjamin & All,
> You will have to go 2 modules side by side for structures such as
> Chris Leach's White Office Tower, Scott Sanborne's Train Station or
> Gas Station,
That's Sanburn, and no big deal. : )
> and (humbly yours and not trying to include myself in
> with their creations) my Town Hall which is 96 studs by 64 studs.
Which is excellent, BTW.
I think, at least with my stuff, it is pretty much a stand alone entity,
with common entry points to other areas. At the last show we did in July
(GATS in Grand Rapids) my train station was a stand alone section, that had
it's own roadways and it's own rails, outside of the main loops. The Shell
Station is a bit more interchangable. : )
> The real problem is once the loops are set up, having the "engineers"/
> organizers reach for the middle of the display, without having to
> "low crawl" under the table(s).
I think MichLTC is getting better at not having as much of that as we did
say in GATS Novi 2002. The nice thing about our tables is the ability to set
them up a few at a time, rather than having to do them all at once. That
helps the setup up a lot.
As for organization, we usually say, this is or space, what do we need? I
get the train station blueprint out to Chris, who puts the display together.
This town module can be the same way in all clubs, a person that can
organize this section to make sure everything is up and snuff. I would have
an awfully hard time trying to conform to something like that, but it might
be a good thing to try when I feel like it. : )
When you are setting up a standard, you try to get it the most accessible to
everyone, and I think this is definitely in Town's fans ability. I think our
section in the last show was awesome, and I hope to see more clubs try it.
Just a few random thoughts as I should be going to bed. : )
Scott S.
--
MichLUG Member, www.michlug.org
Personal Page: www.scottesanburn.org
LEGO Page: www.scottesanburn.org/legoindex.html
>
> Ben
>
>
>
> >
> > If buildings are meant to touch, then I would suggest choosing a
> > standard placement of Technic 1x2 bricks such that they can be
> > securely fastened together side-to-side. A building that could either
> > connect to an adjacent building *OR* have that side of the building
> > visible may have a balcony that attaches to the Technic bricks
> > instead.
> >
> > For lack of any better idea, I would like to put forward 8 studs in
> > and 8 bricks high as the location of the Technic 1x2 brick for this
> > purpose. That way, it's placed about right for attaching a balcony or
> > awning or other decorative element if that side of the building is to
> > be visible.
> >
> > I'd also like to suggest that buildings should stick out by one or two
> > studs on the front, and that is how they would connect to the adjacent
> > road plate. Above road level, balconies or awnings or whatever may
> > stick out as far as 8 studs (so as to not hang over the road). On all
> > other sides, no part of the building may stick out beyond the edge of
> > the baseplate. That includes cornices, balconies, and even the
> > shutter holders on windows (they stick out about 1/2 stud). Anything
> > that sticks out on a side or on the rear should be detachable
> > (connected using either studs or Technic pegs).
> >
> > If a building is meant to *not* touch on a side or rear wall, then it
> > should be set back 4 studs, to make room for an alley.
> >
> > Any comments?
> >
> > --Bill.
>
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Message is in Reply To:
 | | Re: City blocks
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| <snippage> (...) I guess that's why a lot of clubs use the "defacto" standard of the PNWLTC train module specs. It fits 4 48X48 x-tra large baseplates or 9 32X32 large baseplates on a single module. (approx. 30 inches by 30 inches). Another (...) (22 years ago, 21-Sep-02, to lugnet.town)
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