Subject:
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Re: City blocks
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.town
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Date:
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Sat, 21 Sep 2002 04:58:43 GMT
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Viewed:
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485 times
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<snippage>
> > So what is the exact parameter on it? The space one is easy, largely (I
> > assume) a x-tra large grey baseplate. It would be very nice to get a
> > unified town/train standard "block" going.
>
> The trouble with this is that it can't fit on a 30" or 45" wide table.
> For some train clubs, it's important to be able to reach all parts of
> the layout. So I am against any standard that requires buildlings to
> be very big. But see below...
>
> I think the size standard should be some multiple of 32x32 baseplates.
> Using 48x48 baseplates is complicated (unless you use 48x48 baseplates
> in pairs) because the road plates are all 32x32. For clubs that use
> smaller tables (most clubs, I think), buildings would have to occupy
> no more than one full baseplate in depth. But for a club like
> MichLTC, you might want to do two baseplates. Width should be any
> multiple of baseplates.
I guess that's why a lot of clubs use the "defacto" standard of the
PNWLTC train module specs. It fits 4 48X48 x-tra large baseplates or
9 32X32 large baseplates on a single module. (approx. 30 inches by 30 inches).
Another consideration is the proposed layout. The basic layout is the
"oval" track. This implies that the modules go around with the track.
With two curcuits (loops), a road way, and a single base plate (deeper
if you have a larger-sized building) is probably a good way to go.
You will have to go 2 modules side by side for structures such as
Chris Leach's White Office Tower, Scott Sanborne's Train Station or
Gas Station, and (humbly yours and not trying to include myself in
with their creations) my Town Hall which is 96 studs by 64 studs.
The real problem is once the loops are set up, having the "engineers"/
organizers reach for the middle of the display, without having to
"low crawl" under the table(s).
Ben
>
> If buildings are meant to touch, then I would suggest choosing a
> standard placement of Technic 1x2 bricks such that they can be
> securely fastened together side-to-side. A building that could either
> connect to an adjacent building *OR* have that side of the building
> visible may have a balcony that attaches to the Technic bricks
> instead.
>
> For lack of any better idea, I would like to put forward 8 studs in
> and 8 bricks high as the location of the Technic 1x2 brick for this
> purpose. That way, it's placed about right for attaching a balcony or
> awning or other decorative element if that side of the building is to
> be visible.
>
> I'd also like to suggest that buildings should stick out by one or two
> studs on the front, and that is how they would connect to the adjacent
> road plate. Above road level, balconies or awnings or whatever may
> stick out as far as 8 studs (so as to not hang over the road). On all
> other sides, no part of the building may stick out beyond the edge of
> the baseplate. That includes cornices, balconies, and even the
> shutter holders on windows (they stick out about 1/2 stud). Anything
> that sticks out on a side or on the rear should be detachable
> (connected using either studs or Technic pegs).
>
> If a building is meant to *not* touch on a side or rear wall, then it
> should be set back 4 studs, to make room for an alley.
>
> Any comments?
>
> --Bill.
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: City blocks
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| Benjamin & All, (...) That's Sanburn, and no big deal. : ) (...) Which is excellent, BTW. I think, at least with my stuff, it is pretty much a stand alone entity, with common entry points to other areas. At the last show we did in July (GATS in (...) (22 years ago, 21-Sep-02, to lugnet.town)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: City blocks
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| (...) The trouble with this is that it can't fit on a 30" or 45" wide table. For some train clubs, it's important to be able to reach all parts of the layout. So I am against any standard that requires buildlings to be very big. But see below... I (...) (22 years ago, 21-Sep-02, to lugnet.town)
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