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Hi all!
During the past six months I've been trying to decide weather to start with
LEGO trains or not. The local toystore has both the 4565 Fraight & Crane
Railway and 4561 Railway Express, another local toystore has a large chunk of
the S@H My Own Train line with a few cars etc.. (I live in Sweden).
The price is a major concern and I've set the boxes down several times waiting
for clearance sales.
Yesterday I got the chance to by 4559 Cargo Railway and 4552 Cargo Crane along
with some extra rail second hand for $85 and I took the chance.
I have now touched my first trainparts and derailed, put obstacles on the rail
and fooled around a tad. I liked it and will most certainly "get into trains"
for real. Thus I consider myself a Train(ee) newbie :)
Over to the question after this redicoulus long introduction;
I'm moving to a bigger apartment and will get my very own room for LEGO so I
can have a table for a permanent train layout. This is a unique opurtunity I
guess.
How large table do I need for a small layout? My collection is in the 40K range
so I wont add a town around the layout (for now) just the train itself and a
few extras. I own 10 straigts, 24 curved and 2 switching rails. I will probably
get more. I will build my own table so I'm not restricted to default table
sizes, still I don't have *that* much space.
I realize this might be a difficult question but I hope to get a feeling for
the size needed and then adopt it into my own world :)
With many thanks in advance,
/Tobbe
http://www.lotek.nu
(remove SPAM when e-mailing)
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Welcome to trains, Tobbe.
If you haven't discovered it yet, Track Designer is a nice utility to help
plan layout designs. You can find it at the Lego Train Depot at the
following link: http://www.ngltc.org/train_depot/ Other good ways for
getting plan ideas are to review the train club layouts. Granted, you'll
probably want to build something on a much smaller scale, but this is a good
way to get basic ideas of what general designs work well.
My advice would be to build the largest table that is useable in your room.
Of course you'll still want to be able to enter the room and walk around
some or all of your layout, but other than that I'd recommend planning for
future expansion instead of restricting your space too much from the beginning.
A small layout may fit on a 1 x 2.5 meter table; large ones can fill your
entire room. Unused table space can always be used as a work area.
Hope this helps.
Andreas Stabno
http://www.lugnet.com/~19/
In lugnet.trains, Tobbe Arnesson writes:
SNIP
> I'm moving to a bigger apartment and will get my very own room for LEGO so I
> can have a table for a permanent train layout. This is a unique opurtunity I
> guess.
>
> How large table do I need for a small layout? My collection is in the 40K range
> so I wont add a town around the layout (for now) just the train itself and a
> few extras. I own 10 straigts, 24 curved and 2 switching rails. I will probably
> get more. I will build my own table so I'm not restricted to default table
> sizes, still I don't have *that* much space.
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In lugnet.trains, Andreas Stabno writes:
> Welcome to trains, Tobbe.
Thanks.
> If you haven't discovered it yet, Track Designer is a nice utility to help
> plan layout designs. You can find it at the Lego Train Depot at the
> following link: http://www.ngltc.org/train_depot/ Other good ways for
> getting plan ideas are to review the train club layouts. Granted, you'll
> probably want to build something on a much smaller scale, but this is a good
> way to get basic ideas of what general designs work well.
I've played around with the program some way back and will do so again
sometimes soon. I'm more eager to play with the bricks as-is :)
> My advice would be to build the largest table that is useable in your room.
> Of course you'll still want to be able to enter the room and walk around
> some or all of your layout, but other than that I'd recommend planning for
> future expansion instead of restricting your space too much from the beginning.
A good advise.
> A small layout may fit on a 1 x 2.5 meter table; large ones can fill your
> entire room. Unused table space can always be used as a work area.
>
> Hope this helps.
It does! Thanks!
/Tobbe
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In lugnet.trains, Tobbe Arnesson writes:
<snip>
My advice is to check out the online resources for table designs... scan the
club websites. At least PNLTC and MichLUG and the Brickish Association have
their table designs on line.
After you do that, pick a size you like. But my advice is to make it a
multiple of 16 studs in both directions.
I know you probably use metric, but in inches, that's about 5 inches. (just
a smidge over, actually). So you'll see tables at 30 x 30, 30 x 60 (these
two are what MichLUG/LTC uses), at 40 x 40 (WAMALUG) at 45 x something, and
so on.
This makes it possible to completely and exactly cover your table with
baseplates. Pick a size you like and go with it. Make your tables modular.
Right now on my basement layout I have an irregular arrangment of several 60
x 30 and 30 x 30 tables... I can add more or take some away as needs dictate.
You may be thinking, why care about the size, why care about modularity, but
if you get involved with a club at some point in the future, it will be good
that your tables are made to some standard instead of just random sized, and
that they can be rearranged instead of being one large fixed size.
Hope that helps and good luck. Welcome to our nightmare! :-)
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In lugnet.trains, Larry Pieniazek writes:
> I know you probably use metric, but in inches, that's about 5 inches. (just
> a smidge over, actually). So you'll see tables at 30 x 30, 30 x 60 (these
> two are what MichLUG/LTC uses), at 40 x 40 (WAMALUG) at 45 x something, and
> so on.
Is there any standard that's more used then others, as in likely to be picked
if Sweden ever gets a train club?
> This makes it possible to completely and exactly cover your table with
> baseplates. Pick a size you like and go with it. Make your tables modular.
Hm, baseplate geometry - but of course! Thanks!
> You may be thinking, why care about the size, why care about modularity, but
> if you get involved with a club at some point in the future, it will be good
> that your tables are made to some standard instead of just random sized, and
> that they can be rearranged instead of being one large fixed size.
Modularity is good. However, Sweden is a handful of AFOL's and we're starting
to organize in AFOL-form. Perhaps in a few years we might be ablo to pull off
themed meetings. I will be prepared :)
> Hope that helps and good luck. Welcome to our nightmare! :-)
LOL! Thanks!
/Tobbe who's first train MOC might be in Technic scale (it's hard to teach an
old dog new tricks - Swedish saying)
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In lugnet.trains, Tobbe Arnesson writes:
> In lugnet.trains, Larry Pieniazek writes:
> > I know you probably use metric, but in inches, that's about 5 inches. (just
> > a smidge over, actually). So you'll see tables at 30 x 30, 30 x 60 (these
> > two are what MichLUG/LTC uses), at 40 x 40 (WAMALUG) at 45 x something, and
> > so on.
>
> Is there any standard that's more used then others, as in likely to be picked
> if Sweden ever gets a train club?
I make my modules 30" x 45" (2 x 3 large gray baseplates). I like to orient
them 3 baseplates *deep* so as to give plenty of room to model after having 2
mainlines.
I found 30 x 30 to be a bit small, requiring a lot of tables. 30 x 60 can get
too large and thus harder to transport. The advantage to 30 x 45 is that you
have the choice to orient them length wise or width wise.
> /Tobbe who's first train MOC might be in Technic scale (it's hard to teach an
> ld dog new tricks - Swedish saying)
lol we have the same expression:-) May I make a suggestion? Go 16 wide, which
is 1:24 scale. I use technic figs (with Belville body parts grafted on)-- I
call it "Techville":-) (Belnic sounded too silly;-)
I should take some progress pics of my 16 wides....
JOHN
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> > Is there any standard that's more used then others, as in likely to be picked
> > if Sweden ever gets a train club?
>
> I make my modules 30" x 45" (2 x 3 large gray baseplates). I like to orient
> them 3 baseplates *deep* so as to give plenty of room to model after having 2
> mainlines.
>
> I found 30 x 30 to be a bit small, requiring a lot of tables. 30 x 60 can get
> too large and thus harder to transport. The advantage to 30 x 45 is that you
> have the choice to orient them length wise or width wise.
Sounds logic enough.
> > /Tobbe who's first train MOC might be in Technic scale (it's hard to teach an
> > ld dog new tricks - Swedish saying)
>
> lol we have the same expression:-) May I make a suggestion? Go 16 wide, which
> is 1:24 scale. I use technic figs (with Belville body parts grafted on)-- I
> call it "Techville":-) (Belnic sounded too silly;-)
>
> I should take some progress pics of my 16 wides....
It wont be a train in the classic sence. I wont say more :)
I think most expressions are world-wide but I wanted to be on the safe side
(better safe then sorry - that's not a Swedish saying).
Thanks.
/Tobbe
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> Yesterday I got the chance to by 4559 Cargo Railway and 4552 Cargo Crane • along
> with some extra rail second hand for $85 and I took the chance.
hehehe... you will be assimilated!
> How large table do I need for a small layout? My collection is in the 40K • range
> so I wont add a town around the layout (for now) just the train itself and • a
> few extras. I own 10 straigts, 24 curved and 2 switching rails. I will • probably
> get more. I will build my own table so I'm not restricted to default table
> sizes, still I don't have *that* much space.
Good advice from others. Bear in mind:
You need 30" width of table for the track to turn 180 degrees. If you have 2
tracks running parallel, you need more width.
Train club show layouts are not necessarily a good basis for a home layout,
unless you only want to watch your train going round and round and round...
If you want something more interesting, I suggest looking at model railroad
layout planning resources for simple layouts (though you have to watch out
for reversing loops). Try here for a start:
http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/000/722hixbk.asp
http://www.trackplanning.com/
http://www.atlasrr.com/products/fanlayout/hoflintro.html
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/extended.html
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/ex_plus.html
Kevin
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
NEW Half-Timbered Shops kit 1400+++ pieces!
http://www.lionsgatemodels.com/cat-bwh.htm
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
LEGO TOWN PLANNING information:
http://www.lionsgatemodels.com/COntent/Townplan/townplan.htm
BrickLink Lego parts store: http://www.bricklink.com/store.asp?p=Kevinw1
The Guild of Bricksmiths(TM): http://www.bricksmiths.com
Personal Lego Web page:
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/kwilson_tccs/lego.html
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In lugnet.trains, Kevin Wilson writes:
> > Yesterday I got the chance to by 4559 Cargo Railway and 4552 Cargo Crane • along
> > with some extra rail second hand for $85 and I took the chance.
>
> hehehe... you will be assimilated!
At first I thought you meant executed then I bothered to look assimilated up
and I think my g/f is the one who's most thrilled (which is a *very* good thing
since she's not bothered to touch my bricks previously). Now she's been
playing/building with LEGO five days in a row on her own (the first few days
thanks to some 4106/4179 buckets I bought).
> Good advice from others. Bear in mind:
>
> You need 30" width of table for the track to turn 180 degrees. If you have 2
> tracks running parallel, you need more width.
>
> Train club show layouts are not necessarily a good basis for a home layout,
> unless you only want to watch your train going round and round and round...
> If you want something more interesting, I suggest looking at model railroad
> layout planning resources for simple layouts (though you have to watch out
> for reversing loops). Try here for a start:
>
> http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/000/722hixbk.asp
> http://www.trackplanning.com/
> http://www.atlasrr.com/products/fanlayout/hoflintro.html
> http://www.nmra.org/beginner/extended.html
> http://www.nmra.org/beginner/ex_plus.html
Good resources, thanks!
/Tobbe
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In lugnet.trains, Tobbe Arnesson writes:
<snip>
> I'm moving to a bigger apartment and will get my very own room for LEGO so I
> can have a table for a permanent train layout. This is a unique opurtunity I
> guess.
>
> How large table do I need for a small layout? My collection is in the 40K range
> so I wont add a town around the layout (for now) just the train itself and a
> few extras. I own 10 straigts, 24 curved and 2 switching rails. I will probably
> get more. I will build my own table so I'm not restricted to default table
> sizes, still I don't have *that* much space.
>
> I realize this might be a difficult question but I hope to get a feeling for
> the size needed and then adopt it into my own world :)
>
> With many thanks in advance,
> /Tobbe
> http://www.lotek.nu
> (remove SPAM when e-mailing)
Hello there Tobbe, I live in a studio apartment and have room to mount my
layout on a 30"× 72" banquet table w/folding legs. Featuring an oval with a
passing siding, I intend to incorporate a small yard soon.
Due to my small layout, I've chosen to scale down my rolling stock...all my
equipment (including locos) is now four-wheeled so I can have the effect of
'long' trains.
And as for your next train purchase? I'd recommend the 4565 Freight And
Crane Railway (I smell a potential 'set soon to be discontinued' in the air
on this one, which has been in production since 1996!)
Take Care And Enjoy,
-Harvey
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> Hello there Tobbe, I live in a studio apartment and have room to mount my
> layout on a 30"× 72" banquet table w/folding legs. Featuring an oval with a
> passing siding, I intend to incorporate a small yard soon.
>
> Due to my small layout, I've chosen to scale down my rolling stock...all my
> equipment (including locos) is now four-wheeled so I can have the effect of
> 'long' trains.
My g/f expressed a wish to have a rail long enough for the train to vanish out
of sight for a while. I think I need a bigger apartment even *before* I move in
to the new one :) Not to mention a increased budget for all that rail... Why is
that stuff so expensive?
> And as for your next train purchase? I'd recommend the 4565 Freight And
> Crane Railway (I smell a potential 'set soon to be discontinued' in the air
> on this one, which has been in production since 1996!)
Arrrgh! Don't do this to me, a OnLine toystore has it on sale for $130 (about
25% off normal Swedish retail price). I guess I'll have to check the inventory
and see if it's worth being poor a while...
> Take Care And Enjoy,
I will, thanks for the advise!
/Tobbe
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In lugnet.trains, Tobbe Arnesson writes:
> Hi all!
>
> During the past six months I've been trying to decide weather to start with
> LEGO trains or not. The local toystore has both the 4565 Fraight & Crane
> Railway and 4561 Railway Express, another local toystore has a large chunk of
> the S@H My Own Train line with a few cars etc.. (I live in Sweden).
>
> The price is a major concern and I've set the boxes down several times waiting
> for clearance sales.
>
> Yesterday I got the chance to by 4559 Cargo Railway and 4552 Cargo Crane along
> with some extra rail second hand for $85 and I took the chance.
Tobbe, Tobbe....
In August 2000 me and my SO was in Billund, and we bought our first 4561 at
an auction there, for DKK 610. Already then did my housebound say: "We can
afford one train, but not the consequences of starting to collect trains".
By Christmas 2000 we already had one 4565 and a 4560 to go with the first
one, and for the last two years we've bought almost all the second hand
trains we've found, and got S@H-parcels with trains from both Germany and
USA... We now own something like 10 full train sets, plenty of extra rail, 4
extra motors – and even if we bought a 3 story row house when we got a
bigger place, we need to use the church hall to get most of our train-tracks up!
Welcome to the addiction of trains!
aj-ml
Trondheim - Norway
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> Tobbe, Tobbe....
> In August 2000 me and my SO was in Billund, and we bought our first 4561 at
> an auction there, for DKK 610. Already then did my housebound say: "We can
> afford one train, but not the consequences of starting to collect trains".
> By Christmas 2000 we already had one 4565 and a 4560 to go with the first
> one, and for the last two years we've bought almost all the second hand
> trains we've found, and got S@H-parcels with trains from both Germany and
> USA... We now own something like 10 full train sets, plenty of extra rail, 4
> extra motors – and even if we bought a 3 story row house when we got a
> bigger place, we need to use the church hall to get most of our train-tracks up!
I'm not expecting to have everything up, just a smallish layout, I'm trying to
be realistic. :)
> Welcome to the addiction of trains!
Thanks, I'm already addicted to LEGO I'm just engulfing more and more themes.
In six months I've "discovered" Star Wars and Trains. What's next? Duplo?
/Tobbe
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In lugnet.trains, Tobbe Arnesson writes:
>
> > Welcome to the addiction of trains!
>
> Thanks, I'm already addicted to LEGO I'm just engulfing more and more themes.
> In six months I've "discovered" Star Wars and Trains. What's next? Duplo?
We got the new Intelli-Train (3335) in Billund this summer - it is actually
quite fun, we're considered letting the cat play with that....
aj-ml
- who has to complete Harry Potter 2002 before all those new train-sets
arrives in the stores and takes all her pocket money
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