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Consensus seems to be: - don't change elevation by more than 2 studs per track length - this avoids overtaxing the ability of the motors to climb - don't change the rate of change in elevation by more than 1 stud per track length - this avoids (...) (25 years ago, 26-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | Re: Building Bridges
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Duh. I mean 2 plates not 2 studs, and 1 plate, not one stud. A stud is a measure of horizontal distance, not vertical (although technically they are convertable, no one ever speaks that way... OK, 2/5 of a stud and 4/5 of a stud for 1 plate and 2 (...) (25 years ago, 26-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | Re: Building Bridges
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The two plates per track length rule is best, however my kids and I have built (and kept) a pier set that changes one block (3 plates) per track section ... it requires a heavy loco or a fairly short train, but it does allow for a shorter bridge (...) (25 years ago, 26-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | Re: Building Bridges
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Hi, all: I'm in the midst of a large bridge project myself. I'm adhering to the 2 plate slope / 1 plate rate-of-change guideline, but for other reasons. I'd add that you probably shouldn't climb sharply through turns - that just complicates the (...) (25 years ago, 26-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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| | Re: Building Bridges
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(...) A lift bridge or a draw bridge? (...) Why would you use mindstorms to control the bridge except perhaps as a aproach sensor? It's easier to do that with manual blocks, than with electronics. Although, I suppose you could get it to work fine. (...) (25 years ago, 26-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) This was another Q. Can a track this long be power by a single trasformer? Scott A (25 years ago, 26-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) I would love to see pictures of this? Do you have a website? Steve Martin (25 years ago, 27-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Lift Bridge. I'm actually on my second version; the first was lifted by long chain-link chains and powered from the top of the towers. It only carried a single track, and the deck was quite light, and a little flimsy. I ran into difficulty (...) (25 years ago, 28-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Yup, but I cheat a bit. The track is in four zones: 2 on the bridge (each of two parallel tracks), and one more for each turnabout. The bridge zones are trivial - each is only 7 track segments long. I'm away from my track designer, so I can't (...) (25 years ago, 28-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) (URL) - I'm notoriously bad at keeping it up-to-date. I've got 2 snaps of the 1st edition bridge - chain-link, single-track, very thin deck. Send me mail & pester me to take some more shots of it tomorrow when I'm at work :) I'll post them at (...) (25 years ago, 28-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) I'm using strings, and have problems with them not winding evenly. This then causes one side or another to be higher than the other. End to end isn't too bad, but I did not leave in any way to ajust a single string save much hassle at one (...) (25 years ago, 29-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Hee Hee This reminds me of the original Adam's Family. Gomez and his trains. I would imagine a Lego crash would be much more ... ummm...entertaining(?) than an HO scale train crash, of course leaving out the explosives<grin> or not ..... John (25 years ago, 29-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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Impressive piece of engineering says the civil engineer in me. Not to sure about you choice of blue for the columns though. (...) (25 years ago, 29-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Glad you didn't design any bridges *I* have to cross. :-) I wasn't too surprised to hear the deck flexes. it needs to be a truss, or at least a much deeper girder. No way is 4 bricks of depth enough for a 20-30 inch span. c.f. "Galloping (...) (25 years ago, 29-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Heh. I mentioned that I'm on version 2 of the bridge now: The new columns are white and black technic beams; they look *really* flimsy, and I'm going to put heavier looking towers beside them to make people happier. (...) *nod* I will make the (...) (25 years ago, 30-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) If you use the chain links, you don't get the offset problem. Drape them over a driving gear and let the tail ends hang free (ie: don't wind them up) That version of the bridge was powered from the centre of the connecting truss at the top, (...) (25 years ago, 30-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Jeff, Thanks for the idea for adjusting the height of one side of the bridge. I have been using crown gears to send power to both sides of my bridge. When the dogs kick it over it is a pain to adjust. You locked the drive axels together using (...) (25 years ago, 30-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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I've finally put some pictures up at this site: (URL) there's anything anyone wants better pics of, or more description on, let me know. Jeff Elliott (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) That is a nice bridge Jeff! Couple of questions for you 1. How long does it take to cycle from top to bottom? 2. How many Rack Gears are in it (LOTS!) Again, very nicely done bridge...it puts mine to shame...although, I am not going to copy (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Thanks! To answer your questions, it takes about 45 seconds to lower and 55 seconds to raise completely, which is about 75 studs, 60 cm, or 24 inches. The gearing is: new 9v motor drives wormgear, wormgear to 24t, 24 coaxial with five 12t (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Wow, WOW WOW !!!!! That is insane, Jeff! Great job! If I did that at work, my boss would probably throw me out the window or something! I get enough bad looks from my Trade Federation Battle Droid army. Scott S. ___...___ Scott E. Sanburn CAD (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.trains)
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