Subject:
|
Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie
|
Newsgroups:
|
lugnet.trains
|
Date:
|
Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:33:42 GMT
|
Viewed:
|
937 times
|
| |
|
|
Martin Legault wrote:
>
> In lugnet.trains, Frank Filz writes:
> >
> > Jim Rorstrom wrote in message ...
> > >
> > > >
> > > > 1)This has to do with the fact that the regulators output voltage are • slightly
> > > > different due to tollerance of the components.
> > > > 2)You may NEVER connect the outputs from voltage regulators to each other
> > > > without a serie resistor and appropriate electronic cirquitry.
> > > > If you need a higher output current,you can use an other voltage regulator
> > > > capable for higher output currents (you need then also a heavier • transformer
> > > > too [more Amp.,at the same voltage]) .
> > >
> > > *** Warning *** Not a Lego purist application ***
> > >
> > > MRC Tech II throttles, well known in the model railroading world, solve • this
> > > problem nicely. I have a passenger train with two locos (4 motors) which • is no
> > > problem at all for my MRC throttle. I have had some of my train motors for
> > > three years and have not burned any of them out. A cautionary statement, • MRC
> > > throttles are 12 volt. This has not been a problem, however. When I first
> > > hooked up the MRC throttle I did some test runs with a multi meter • monitoring
> > > the voltage. I couldn't get over 6 volts without running the train off the
> > > tracks. MRC throttles also make it easier to pull slowly away from train
> > > stations and coupling cars.
> >
> >
> > I also saw somewhere something about a new MRC throttle which has a switch
> > which divides output voltage by two. This switch would guarantee that you
> > couldn't put out too high a voltage.
> >
> > As far as connecting multiple controllers, it depends on the internal
> > circuitry. The real problem you would have is that you have to run around
> > turning off all the controllers to shut down the train. For huge layouts, it
> > is probably time to abandon a pure LEGO solution. Use large gauge wire
> > feeders to multiple points on the layout. Also, if you place feeders
> > frequently enough, and make all the feeders the same length, you just create
> > a system where overall the train runs slower than if the controller was
> > directly connected to a small loop of track. Not a bad thing since the
> > maximum speed is much too high. This solution of course can be kept LEGO
> > pure, but it's going to be pricey to buy that many wire kits.
> >
> > To make non-pure feeders, I would take the LEGO feeder, and snip the wires
> > about an inch away from the black cylinder (anyone know what that is? Is it
> > a current limiting device?). Then strip the wire ends, and solder to a
>
> I would say that it is a fuse, never tested it but by the weigth it is to ligth
> to be a coil and also because a capacitor would be better help than a coil.
More likely a thermal, self resetting, circuit breaker like the
controller and motors apparently have.
--
Frank Filz
-----------------------------
Work: mailto:ffilz@us.ibm.com (business only please)
Home: mailto:ffilz@mindspring.com
|
|
Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie
|
| (...) If you open one up, you'll see it's nothing that fancy. A loop of metal, perhaps magnetic, that the 9volt wire wraps around once. I'm guessing it has something to do with RF interference, but that's a complete guess... John1, GMLTC (25 years ago, 22-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
|
Message is in Reply To:
36 Messages in This Thread:
 
 
- Entire Thread on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
This Message and its Replies on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
|
|
|
|
