Subject:
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Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Sun, 21 Nov 1999 04:50:19 GMT
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Viewed:
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770 times
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Jim Rorstrom wrote in message ...
>
> >
> > 1)This has to do with the fact that the regulators output voltage are • slightly
> > different due to tollerance of the components.
> > 2)You may NEVER connect the outputs from voltage regulators to each other
> > without a serie resistor and appropriate electronic cirquitry.
> > If you need a higher output current,you can use an other voltage regulator
> > capable for higher output currents (you need then also a heavier • transformer
> > too [more Amp.,at the same voltage]) .
>
> *** Warning *** Not a Lego purist application ***
>
> MRC Tech II throttles, well known in the model railroading world, solve • this
> problem nicely. I have a passenger train with two locos (4 motors) which • is no
> problem at all for my MRC throttle. I have had some of my train motors for
> three years and have not burned any of them out. A cautionary statement, • MRC
> throttles are 12 volt. This has not been a problem, however. When I first
> hooked up the MRC throttle I did some test runs with a multi meter • monitoring
> the voltage. I couldn't get over 6 volts without running the train off the
> tracks. MRC throttles also make it easier to pull slowly away from train
> stations and coupling cars.
I also saw somewhere something about a new MRC throttle which has a switch
which divides output voltage by two. This switch would guarantee that you
couldn't put out too high a voltage.
As far as connecting multiple controllers, it depends on the internal
circuitry. The real problem you would have is that you have to run around
turning off all the controllers to shut down the train. For huge layouts, it
is probably time to abandon a pure LEGO solution. Use large gauge wire
feeders to multiple points on the layout. Also, if you place feeders
frequently enough, and make all the feeders the same length, you just create
a system where overall the train runs slower than if the controller was
directly connected to a small loop of track. Not a bad thing since the
maximum speed is much too high. This solution of course can be kept LEGO
pure, but it's going to be pricey to buy that many wire kits.
To make non-pure feeders, I would take the LEGO feeder, and snip the wires
about an inch away from the black cylinder (anyone know what that is? Is it
a current limiting device?). Then strip the wire ends, and solder to a
heavier wire (optional - solder to some kind of connector). Cut the other
end about an inch away from the 2x2 connector and solder to the other end of
the heavier wire (or put another connector on).
Unfortunately we can't do what many model railroaders to improve the
electrical performance of their track... Soldering the rails would melt the
plastic (not to mention being just as bad as glue...).
Frank
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Message has 3 Replies:
 | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie
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| (...) Not true. You -can- solder to the lego track. I know. I have about 10 pieces that have various combinations of wires leading off them, plus having rebuilt points to a all curve/straight pattern. You need a good temp. controlled soldering (...) (25 years ago, 21-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
| | | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie
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| (...) I am not 100% sure, but I think it may be a coil. Many devices have these and they serve as RF interference supression. Since at least some theories have the waveform from the controller being PWM, RF supression is important... (25 years ago, 22-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie
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| (...) *** Warning *** Not a Lego purist application *** MRC Tech II throttles, well known in the model railroading world, solve this problem nicely. I have a passenger train with two locos (4 motors) which is no problem at all for my MRC throttle. (...) (25 years ago, 20-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)
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