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Subject: 
Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains
Date: 
Mon, 22 Nov 1999 16:50:34 GMT
Viewed: 
894 times
  
In lugnet.trains, Frank Filz writes:

Jim Rorstrom wrote in message ...


1)This has to do with the fact that the regulators output voltage are • slightly
different due to tollerance of the components.
2)You may NEVER connect the outputs from voltage regulators to each other
without a serie resistor and appropriate electronic cirquitry.
If you need a higher output current,you can use an other voltage regulator
capable for higher output currents (you need then also a heavier • transformer
too [more Amp.,at the same voltage]) .

*** Warning *** Not a Lego purist application ***

MRC Tech II throttles, well known in the model railroading world, solve • this
problem nicely.  I have a passenger train with two locos (4 motors) which • is no
problem at all for my MRC throttle.  I have had some of my train motors for
three years and have not burned any of them out.  A cautionary statement, • MRC
throttles are 12 volt.  This has not been a problem, however.  When I first
hooked up the MRC throttle I did some test runs with a multi meter • monitoring
the voltage.  I couldn't get over 6 volts without running the train off the
tracks.  MRC throttles also make it easier to pull slowly away from train
stations and coupling cars.


I also saw somewhere something about a new MRC throttle which has a switch
which divides output voltage by two. This switch would guarantee that you
couldn't put out too high a voltage.

As far as connecting multiple controllers, it depends on the internal
circuitry. The real problem you would have is that you have to run around
turning off all the controllers to shut down the train. For huge layouts, it
is probably time to abandon a pure LEGO solution. Use large gauge wire
feeders to multiple points on the layout. Also, if you place feeders
frequently enough, and make all the feeders the same length, you just create
a system where overall the train runs slower than if the controller was
directly connected to a small loop of track. Not a bad thing since the
maximum speed is much too high. This solution of course can be kept LEGO
pure, but it's going to be pricey to buy that many wire kits.

To make non-pure feeders, I would take the LEGO feeder, and snip the wires
about an inch away from the black cylinder (anyone know what that is? Is it
a current limiting device?). Then strip the wire ends, and solder to a

I would say that it is a fuse, never tested it but by the weigth it is to ligth
to be a coil and also because a capacitor would be better help than a coil.


Martin

heavier wire (optional - solder to some kind of connector). Cut the other
end about an inch away from the 2x2 connector and solder to the other end of
the heavier wire (or put another connector on).

Unfortunately we can't do what many model railroaders to  improve the
electrical performance of their track... Soldering the rails would melt the
plastic (not to mention being just as bad as glue...).

Frank



Message has 1 Reply:
  Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie
 
(...) More likely a thermal, self resetting, circuit breaker like the controller and motors apparently have. (25 years ago, 22-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)

Message is in Reply To:
  Re: More Questions from Another Train Newbie
 
Jim Rorstrom wrote in message ... (...) slightly (...) transformer (...) this (...) is no (...) MRC (...) monitoring (...) I also saw somewhere something about a new MRC throttle which has a switch which divides output voltage by two. This switch (...) (25 years ago, 21-Nov-99, to lugnet.trains)

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