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I actually went out and bought some Brasso today, after reading messages suggesting that it could remove the printing from Lego bricks. I tried it with several of the smooth McDonald's slopes (pictures of Grimace), and with one 2x1 tile ($100 bill (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) ~ quit yer winnin' soldier! this WAR! _war_ against the pre-printed goofy faces that limit our building options! ;-)> if you thought the mc-d's slopes were tough, try doing this to a dozen aqua slopes from rock raiders. these textured slopes (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) Does it make a difference if you allow the Brasso to set for awhile? That is, if you apply some to the brick and let it soak before trying to buff off the printing? Dave! (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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Would this work on transparent printed pieces? Would the piece still be transparent? I am hoping to do this to the new Castle (stained glass) windows. -- Have fun! John The Legos you've been dreaming of... (URL) weird Lego site: (URL) Davidson (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) OK, so exactly what is Brasso composed of ? Is it a mild abrasive ? If so, then perhaps toothpaste would work as well. Ray (who has not begun to scrub parts) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) Hmmm. Cool! I could see doing this to the old Aquashark solid black canopy to remove the printing from it. If I had one to spare, that is. Mope. Is the idea here that Brasso is a mild enough solvent that this is safe? It won't eat at the (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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Yes, it would work. It would probably remove scratches and stuff, too. -- Paul Davidson John DiRienzo <ig88888888@stlnet.com> wrote in message news:Fn3IMu.4F7@lugnet.com... (...) be (...) expected. (...) furiously. (...) but (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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I tried letting some pieces sit awhile and soak, but it didn't seem to matter. -- Paul Davidson Dave Schuler <orrex@excite.com> wrote in message news:Fn3IDo.3qo@lugnet.com... (...) expected. (...) furiously. (...) but (...) be (...) That (...) off (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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Has anyone ever tried using Brasso with a toothbrush? It seems that it would work better on the textured 2x3 slopes. I personally used Brasso, with a cloth, to remove the printing from the McDonalds sets. I was surprised to see that once the (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) brasso consists of a very fine abrasive in an oil suspention. it is not a chemical solvent at all. toothpaste is a much softer abrasive, and would take weeks of constant rubbing to remove paint, and using a brush would be too abrasive, (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) Hmmm... If I can get some of this stuff, I'll try it on a 1x8 brick I have. This brick was left in the sun for so long that it has yellowed to the point of beinging virtually the same color as the beige bricks. Jeff P.S. It was part of a (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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Brasso was recommended to me to remove scratches from a watch glass, so I would think so. The important thing is to make sure that you remove all traces of the polish when you've finished, so that it doesn't continue dissolving the plastic, which (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) After seeing these posts, I went to the hardware store and popped $3.69 on a can of Brasso to test it on one of my hated UFO panels. It really does work--it's both a mild abrasive and a polymer-solvent, so it takes scratches out likely by a (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) Part of why it works, though, is because it's in an oil suspension. For polymer plastics, oil is a solvent--even more so for the screenprinting, which is itself put in a petroleum-derived solution before being blown out onto the piece. It's a (...) (25 years ago, 21-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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Is this something that one could mechanise? Ala a buffing wheel or the like. Purely hypotehtical question for me, the thought of actually removing printing (even happy meal printing) makes me blanch, Blanche! (25 years ago, 23-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) I'd actually kicked around offering a buffing service. Dremel (and various other mini-tool companies) do make a small buffing wheel for crafts, so it's not out of the question by any means. I'm generally in your corner on this, but when it (...) (25 years ago, 23-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) later ~ craig~ (...) (25 years ago, 23-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) it works as well as it does on opaque pieces! i did a pair of small insectoid wings. i chose these for the experiment to see if it would marr the frosted edge. it didn't, but probably would if i kept at it. the print rubbed out in a couple of (...) (25 years ago, 23-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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Not easily. I used a Dremel on the lowest speed once on a minifig, it burned the plastic almost instantly, and I was using a plastic bristle brush! MAYBE a buffer at extremely low speed, with water cooling. (...) -- Tom Stangl ***(URL) Visual FAQ (...) (25 years ago, 23-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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Tom Stangl, VFAQman wrote in message <3861FCB1.2A906B6F@vfaq.com>... (...) MAYBE an electric toothbrush could "do the job." (...) -- Have fun! John The Legos you've been dreaming of... (URL) weird Lego site: (URL) Hooray! Hooray! Its Y2K! A new (...) (25 years ago, 23-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) <snip> heehee Tom I hope that was a Timmy : ) Ya'll might want to try a product called nevr-dull, it comes in a small blue tin can and has the "polish" suspended in a kinda cotton wad. you ought to wear gloves of some type but it takes the (...) (25 years ago, 23-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) White rouge and a bench buffer works (both available at Sears). (25 years ago, 23-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) Magnificent! I know a couple of people who have been waiting for word on this. :) Thanks for offering up the sacrifice. (...) That seems to be exactly how it works--if you could run Brasso over a piece, it might take it away, but just having (...) (25 years ago, 23-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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I don't know about with these two methods. What I used wasa soft gum eraser and rubbing alcohol. Get the eraser fragments embedded in some cotton, and you will be able to remove the decal without scratching. It took a LONG time to remove it, but (...) (25 years ago, 28-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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<snip> (...) post (...) (25 years ago, 28-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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Please be careful with this stuff. I used Never-Dull on a sloped piece and it completely melted the texture from the slope. I would recommend not using Never-Dull, it is too strong, and stick with Brasso. -Nick (...) wear (...) post (...) (25 years ago, 28-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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Hi Nick, Thanks for the additional info. I haven't used nevr dull on a textured slope, just the smooth transparent pieces and a smooth black piece from the police headquarters. I just tried it on a stars wars x-wing smoked canopy and it came out (...) (25 years ago, 28-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) Is there any reason why you attacked the canopy? That's one piece where I like the printing... (...) Agreed, but I prefer printing to stickers (and I especially prefer printing to STAMPs) for control panels and the like. Stickers would have (...) (25 years ago, 28-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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(...) I agree with you about the stickers-vs-printing thing, but stickers for the quarter-hulls would have been terrible. Kids would have been very frustrated, because there'd have to be a number of individual stickers for each part. Not that I like (...) (25 years ago, 29-Dec-99, to lugnet.general)
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