Subject:
|
Re: Pre-1990 friction pegs removal techniques?
|
Newsgroups:
|
lugnet.technic
|
Date:
|
Sun, 6 Jul 2003 06:28:21 GMT
|
Viewed:
|
1359 times
|
| |
|
|
Thanks for the responses, everyone.
> Fortunately, pretty much all of the #2's that I have are of the notched
> variety, so I made a special point of using all of my notchless #2's on
> IG-8OA8's hands and feet. I figured the chances of me ever wanting to
> disassemble him are pretty tiny, and I made sure not to use them in any blind
> connections, so even if I do decide to pop some pieces apart, it shouldn't
> be a problem.
I generally also use the notched 2 axles in my models, but I seem to actually
have way more of the older notchless type. Those are pretty easy to remove by
using the older type of half-bushings though (part 4265a), which fit onto the
axles very tightly and make them easy to just pull out.
> If the black pegs are *really* stubborn, I build a sort of block with a 2x2
> hole down the middle and lay the technic beam and peg over the hole, then
> use a shortened T part as a punch. Just hammer the things out. Make sure
> that you align the punch really well over the end of the peg and hold it
> right next to the beam.
By T part do you mean the usual two-axle assembly? I tended to prop up the axle
against the floor and push on the beam instead when having trouble with the
normal method (this works much better on a carpet than a hard floor). As you
said though, the axle needs to be positioned perfectly or it ends up deforming
the edges of the hole.
> Blisters, along with cuts on the soles of one's feet from walking on pieces, are
> just a sign that you need to play with Lego more to build up resistance.
heh, yeah I have not had much free time recently for lego stuff. The end of the
school year has freed up a lot of time though; now I should be able to finally
complete those claw truck and rocket launcher models soon.
> Hi Gaurav,
> Here is one method that might work for you.
> http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Paul-Dieter/Pneumatic-helicopter/4.jpg
> Good luck.
I just tried out this method with a few test parts and it worked surprisingly
well; thanks a lot for the idea. :) From this it seems that the strength of the
peg/hole connection also depends on the brick and not just the peg, since it is
easier to pull them out of some holes/bricks than others.
> Teeth, man. Use your teeth! :-)
>
> When I was much younger, and a little short in the brains department(1), I
> used my teeth for much of my difficult LEGO disassembly. Consequently, I
> have a chipped tooth and many chewed up LEGO parts.
lol, I did that all the time too some years ago. It worked fairly well (since I
was a weakling and couldn't pull them out with my hands :D ), but as you said,
it puts lots of dents in the parts.
For this piece though, I don't know what the guys at TLG were smoking when they
came up with this peg design in toys designed for kids. :p
> Seriously, the other suggestions posted are quite good. I myself do not use
> those old pegs anymore. I have them separated away from the newer style pegs,
> and only use the newer style.
I also never use these pegs in my own models; the problem only arises with
building or dissassembling the official models. Do you know if TLG accepts some
sort of trade-ins whereby customers can send these in and recieve the newer pegs
in return? (I know they offer such a service for broken pieces) I have five
1984-1989 sets (8851, 8854, 8862, two 8865s) and so quite a few of these things
which it would be nice to replace.
> I simply use a 16L beam with cross axle/peg type pegs in the outermost holes.
> You align with the target beam on the one peg and then press the two beams
> together forcing the black peg out with the other cross axle peg. I've done
> whole 8865's this way. You can apply huge forces safely and without injury to
> your hand.
I also tried this slight variant on the standard axle method and it is indeed
somewhat easier on your hands, but it seems to still smash up the friction peg
with a noticeable axle-shaped dent. Actually, this is sometimes okay since a
dent on that side does not really impair the function of the peg, but after
doing it a couple of times in the same location it ends up looking pretty ugly.
-Gaurav
|
|
Message has 2 Replies:
 | | Re: Pre-1990 friction pegs removal techniques?
|
| (...) I must confess that I was a bit mixed up on the original question, as I don't believe I own any of the old pins without the slot through the center. I thought you were referring to the old #2 plus-rods. Anyways, how about trying a 1x? TECHNIC (...) (21 years ago, 6-Jul-03, to lugnet.technic)
|
Message is in Reply To:
| | Pre-1990 friction pegs removal techniques?
|
| As most of you know, the black friction pegs included in Technic sets issued before 1990 had a design that made them extremely hard to work with. I was wondering how the rest of you go about removing these things from other other pieces. The method (...) (21 years ago, 1-Jul-03, to lugnet.technic)
|
13 Messages in This Thread:
 
- Entire Thread on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
This Message and its Replies on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
|
|
|
|
