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Thanks for the responses, everyone.
> Fortunately, pretty much all of the #2's that I have are of the notched
> variety, so I made a special point of using all of my notchless #2's on
> IG-8OA8's hands and feet. I figured the chances of me ever wanting to
> disassemble him are pretty tiny, and I made sure not to use them in any blind
> connections, so even if I do decide to pop some pieces apart, it shouldn't
> be a problem.
I generally also use the notched 2 axles in my models, but I seem to actually
have way more of the older notchless type. Those are pretty easy to remove by
using the older type of half-bushings though (part 4265a), which fit onto the
axles very tightly and make them easy to just pull out.
> If the black pegs are *really* stubborn, I build a sort of block with a 2x2
> hole down the middle and lay the technic beam and peg over the hole, then
> use a shortened T part as a punch. Just hammer the things out. Make sure
> that you align the punch really well over the end of the peg and hold it
> right next to the beam.
By T part do you mean the usual two-axle assembly? I tended to prop up the axle
against the floor and push on the beam instead when having trouble with the
normal method (this works much better on a carpet than a hard floor). As you
said though, the axle needs to be positioned perfectly or it ends up deforming
the edges of the hole.
> Blisters, along with cuts on the soles of one's feet from walking on pieces, are
> just a sign that you need to play with Lego more to build up resistance.
heh, yeah I have not had much free time recently for lego stuff. The end of the
school year has freed up a lot of time though; now I should be able to finally
complete those claw truck and rocket launcher models soon.
> Hi Gaurav,
> Here is one method that might work for you.
> http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Paul-Dieter/Pneumatic-helicopter/4.jpg
> Good luck.
I just tried out this method with a few test parts and it worked surprisingly
well; thanks a lot for the idea. :) From this it seems that the strength of the
peg/hole connection also depends on the brick and not just the peg, since it is
easier to pull them out of some holes/bricks than others.
> Teeth, man. Use your teeth! :-)
>
> When I was much younger, and a little short in the brains department(1), I
> used my teeth for much of my difficult LEGO disassembly. Consequently, I
> have a chipped tooth and many chewed up LEGO parts.
lol, I did that all the time too some years ago. It worked fairly well (since I
was a weakling and couldn't pull them out with my hands :D ), but as you said,
it puts lots of dents in the parts.
For this piece though, I don't know what the guys at TLG were smoking when they
came up with this peg design in toys designed for kids. :p
> Seriously, the other suggestions posted are quite good. I myself do not use
> those old pegs anymore. I have them separated away from the newer style pegs,
> and only use the newer style.
I also never use these pegs in my own models; the problem only arises with
building or dissassembling the official models. Do you know if TLG accepts some
sort of trade-ins whereby customers can send these in and recieve the newer pegs
in return? (I know they offer such a service for broken pieces) I have five
1984-1989 sets (8851, 8854, 8862, two 8865s) and so quite a few of these things
which it would be nice to replace.
> I simply use a 16L beam with cross axle/peg type pegs in the outermost holes.
> You align with the target beam on the one peg and then press the two beams
> together forcing the black peg out with the other cross axle peg. I've done
> whole 8865's this way. You can apply huge forces safely and without injury to
> your hand.
I also tried this slight variant on the standard axle method and it is indeed
somewhat easier on your hands, but it seems to still smash up the friction peg
with a noticeable axle-shaped dent. Actually, this is sometimes okay since a
dent on that side does not really impair the function of the peg, but after
doing it a couple of times in the same location it ends up looking pretty ugly.
-Gaurav
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In lugnet.technic, Gaurav Thakur wrote:
> I also tried this slight variant on the standard axle method and it is indeed
> somewhat easier on your hands, but it seems to still smash up the friction peg
> with a noticeable axle-shaped dent. Actually, this is sometimes okay since a
> dent on that side does not really impair the function of the peg, but after
> doing it a couple of times in the same location it ends up looking pretty
> ugly.
I must confess that I was a bit mixed up on the original question, as I
don't believe I own any of the old pins without the slot through the center. I
thought you were referring to the old #2 plus-rods. Anyways, how about trying a
1x? TECHNIC brick (I suggest a brick over a beam/liftarm, as the brick will have
more flat surface for you to push against) with a light-grey stud-pin? Use the
stud end to push against the old TECHNIC pin, which shouldn't cause any
noticable deformation of either pin (the stud end will push against the entire
split end of the old pin, which will likewise contact nearly all of the stud
end). Once you've got it started, you can flip the stud-pin around so the stud
is mounted in the TECHNIC brick and use the pin end to push the old pin the rest
of the way out (try to keep the slots aligned with each other to maximize
contact surface), since the largest amount of resistance should occur while the
lipped tip of the pin is still locked into the counterbore of the TECHNIC hole.
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Gaurav Thakur wrote:
> Do you know if TLG accepts some
> sort of trade-ins whereby customers can send these in and recieve the newer pegs
> in return? (I know they offer such a service for broken pieces) I have five
> 1984-1989 sets (8851, 8854, 8862, two 8865s) and so quite a few of these things
> which it would be nice to replace.
I'll trade you. I have about 100 new, never used friction pins, and a gazillion
used ones.
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