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Subject: 
Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics........adapting metal to plastic rails
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains
Date: 
Sat, 6 Jan 2007 20:18:25 GMT
Viewed: 
4896 times
  
In lugnet.trains, John Neal wrote:
   In lugnet.trains, Dave Curtis wrote:

   So... do you really need something with a non-trivial profile -- a “channel”, as you say, or does the top of the rail just need to be shaved down? I’m thinking that a woodworker’s drum sander (the stationary kind used for thickness sanding planks) and a simple jig to hold the track would make short work of re-profiling the top.

It’s a question better answered by a modder like Ondrew, but I think you are correct-- “channel” probably wasn’t the best description. Shaving down would work AFAIK. That is to match track height.

Now the 9 volt train motor actually picks up power from the track along the inside of the rail. The wheels are cleverly spring-loaded to maintain contact with the inside of the rails, even in curves.

   Does the web of the R/C track have the through-slots that the metal clips fold into?

Not AFAIK

   Does the rail head width also have “metal allowance” that needs to be shaved down? -- Maybe that is what you mean by “channel”?

Not sure about that. My initial thought is that a slightly thicker rail would actually improve conductivity.

JOHN

here’s the easiest way for me to explain this i can think of.

new RC plastic track



old metal rail track minus the metal

to put metal on the new RC track in order to make 9v trains work you need to shave the top and sides of the rail so that the metal rail will fit over the plastic.

will sanding just the top work? in a word no.

how do you shave the rail so the metal fits? honestly i’m still working that out. most likely heat or a custom made tool using xacto blades will do the trick.

do you have to make the holes in the rails no, the holes in which the mounting tabs are in 9v track are not apsolutly nessasary IF you use the right glue.

what type of glue? epoxy or CA

will metal tape and or paint work? yes, for a while. the rubing action of the motors and wheels rubs it off or though within minutes or hours.

why will it rub off? lego picks up power from the inside edge of the rail unlike all other model trains. this is actuly a feature of lego trains as it automaticly cleans the rails as the train goes by.


i hope this helps clear up the confusion.

ondrew



Message has 2 Replies:
  Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics........adapting metal to plastic rails
 
(...) Surfacing tools such as sanders and planers have a lot of torque and would probably tear the parts up Better is a light duty router or rotozip. I think a cutter is beter than a sander to get a smooth result. Either way you might get chipping (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
  Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics........adapting metal to plastic rails
 
In lugnet.trains, Ondrew Hartigan wrote: ... snip... (...) Yes, helps a lot, thanks! I guess the trick is finding a good way to narrow the rail profile. Since it isn't worth modding the simple straights and curves, any tool would have to fit within (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)

Message is in Reply To:
  Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics
 
(...) It's a question better answered by a modder like Ondrew, but I think you are correct-- "channel" probably wasn't the best description. Shaving down would work AFAIK. That is to match track height. Now the 9 volt train motor actually picks up (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)

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