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Subject: 
Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains
Date: 
Sat, 6 Jan 2007 18:37:52 GMT
Viewed: 
4702 times
  
In lugnet.trains, Dave Curtis wrote:

   So... do you really need something with a non-trivial profile -- a “channel”, as you say, or does the top of the rail just need to be shaved down? I’m thinking that a woodworker’s drum sander (the stationary kind used for thickness sanding planks) and a simple jig to hold the track would make short work of re-profiling the top.

It’s a question better answered by a modder like Ondrew, but I think you are correct-- “channel” probably wasn’t the best description. Shaving down would work AFAIK. That is to match track height.

Now the 9 volt train motor actually picks up power from the track along the inside of the rail. The wheels are cleverly spring-loaded to maintain contact with the inside of the rails, even in curves.

   Does the web of the R/C track have the through-slots that the metal clips fold into?

Not AFAIK

   Does the rail head width also have “metal allowance” that needs to be shaved down? -- Maybe that is what you mean by “channel”?

Not sure about that. My initial thought is that a slightly thicker rail would actually improve conductivity.

JOHN



Message has 2 Replies:
  Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics
 
In lugnet.trains, John Neal wrote: ..snip.. (...) Hmm... I wonder if that would need to be notched to accept "donor" rail. (...) May well be. I was thinking that the donor rail might not seat well if the rail head profile is too wide. Anyway... (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
  Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics........adapting metal to plastic rails
 
(...) here's the easiest way for me to explain this i can think of. new RC plastic track (URL) old metal rail track minus the metal (URL) to put metal on the new RC track in order to make 9v trains work you need to shave the top and sides of the (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)

Message is in Reply To:
  Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics
 
(...) OK, thanks, that makes sense. So... do you really need something with a non-trivial profile -- a "channel", as you say, or does the top of the rail just need to be shaved down? I'm thinking that a woodworker's drum sander (the stationary kind (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)

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