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Subject: 
Re: Hey, Joe. What doors do you use on your caboose
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains
Date: 
Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:41:06 GMT
Viewed: 
931 times
  
Larry Pieniazek wrote:

Well, I generally like Joe's work but I have to take a contrary view. I
feel there is a line between "successfully selectively compressed" and
"too small" and I feel this particular caboose is well over that line.
It's so short that it is disproportionately tall compared to length.
This makes it look toylike. Not the look I go for. Within the selective
compression limitations, I go for a beefy look that suggests much larger
equipment.


I did make the caboose shorter to look more proportional to the shorter stock cars
that pull it around.  All cabooses I have seen are shorter than the cars.

I just looked up Larry's caboose.  I like it.  Much more 'Lego' than mine.  Love the
interior and the extended cupola.  I need to add a 2x plate along the roof of mine.



Contrast with mine, which is significantly longer (but also uses red
town doors and 2x2 windows). Admittedly I'm biased but I think mine
better captures the spirit of a caboose than Joe's or the Steve Barile
Chessie caboose (which suffers even more since it only has 2 axles. Very
unprototypical.) which are the other well known cabeese out there.

On the decal question, these are neither. They are decals. A decal is a
thin film that is floated off its backing paper by long (60-120 second)
immersion in water, applied, while still wet, to the surface, and
allowed to dry. Dry transfers are pressed off, and stickers are peeled
off, respectively, from their backing paper.

Wet decals are superior to either other technology for detailed
decoration, especially when adhesion to irregular surfaces is required
(a chemical, tradenamed "solvaset" can be applied while the decal is
wet, or after it dries to stretch them to allow conformance).


Excellent description Larry.  I use Micro-sol, which is the same as Solvaset.  It
allowed the Santa Fe decals to conform perfectly to the 'log' wall sections I used
on the brown box car I built.

http://userweb.springnet1.com/jdavenp/Car-SF.jpg



Decals in model railroading are typically oversprayed with a dull finish
clear paint to strengthen them as they are quite fragile and should not
be subjected to any handling. In the Lego application, this overspray is
not practical, really, due to the effect it can have on the plastic.
(decals are most typically applied to painted surfaces, prior to
weathering chalks being applied to simulate dirt)


I used to model aircraft and armor dioramas, and spraying with Dull-cote helped
blend the edges and seal the weathering on the model.  I don't over spray the decals
on my Lego models. Once the decals are applied, they are suprisingly resistant to
normal handling.  The Lego is very smooth, and the decal adheres very flat to the
surface.  The decals get fragile when air gets trapped underneath its surface.

Joe



Christopher Masi wrote:

PS. Are Micro-scale decal sheets removeable stickers or are they semipermanent
rub on decals?

--
Larry Pieniazek    http://my.voyager.net/lar
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Message is in Reply To:
  Re: Hey, Joe. What doors do you use on your caboose
 
Well, I generally like Joe's work but I have to take a contrary view. I feel there is a line between "successfully selectively compressed" and "too small" and I feel this particular caboose is well over that line. It's so short that it is (...) (25 years ago, 28-Apr-99, to lugnet.trains)

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