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Subject: 
Re: Hey, Joe. What doors do you use on your caboose
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains
Date: 
Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:28:43 GMT
Reply-To: 
cmasi@+Spamcake+cmasi.chem.tulane.edu
Viewed: 
3066 times
  
Larry Pieniazek wrote:

> Well, I generally like Joe's work but I have to take a contrary view. I
> feel there is a line between "successfully selectively compressed" and
> "too small" and I feel this particular caboose is well over that line.
> It's so short that it is disproportionately tall compared to length.
> This makes it look toylike. Not the look I go for. Within the selective

As everyone knows I am not a real modeler [1], so the realness or the toyness of
the model does not change my opinion usually. The toy factor might even make it
more appealing to me. It has a cuteness to it while still resembling a real
caboose. The cuteness makes it more endearing, to me.

I have commented about the effect of the decals before; if the decals were removed
from this caboose it would be much more boring. Joe uses decals very effectively.

> compression limitations, I go for a beefy look that suggests much larger
> equipment.
> 
> Contrast with mine, which is significantly longer (but also uses red
> town doors and 2x2 windows). Admittedly I'm biased but I think mine

> better captures the spirit of a caboose than Joe's or the Steve Barile

> Chessie caboose (which suffers even more since it only has 2 axles. Very

I thought I saw a two axel caboose on Trains Unlimitted. It struck me as odd
because I saw it around the time the whole coach vs caboose discussion was raging.

> unprototypical.) which are the other well known cabeese out there.

What is good for the caboose is good for the cabander?

> On the decal question, these are neither. They are decals. A decal is a
> thin film that is floated off its backing paper by long (60-120 second)
> immersion in water, applied, while still wet, to the surface, and
> allowed to dry. Dry transfers are pressed off, and stickers are peeled
> off, respectively, from their backing paper.
> 
> Wet decals are superior to either other technology for detailed
> decoration, especially when adhesion to irregular surfaces is required
> (a chemical, tradenamed "solvaset" can be applied while the decal is
> wet, or after it dries to stretch them to allow conformance).

On decals again...I will now stop asking about the sticker = sticker, dry transfer
= dry transfer, decal = wet transfer.

On stickers...injets can print on transparencies, provided the transparancy is the
right type. So, I would love to find a transparency with a sticky back on which an
inkjet could print. Thus, homemade easily removeable stickers. But I digress.

Chris

[1] After being busted on my diesel electric cop-out front-end I have finally fixed
it. The pictures have been taken and they should be up tomorrow. I'll let you know.



Message has 1 Reply:
  Re: Hey, Joe. What doors do you use on your caboose
 
I guess I would have to agree along the lines of Larry's critique. It is compressed and toylike-- not that there is anything wrong with that (thank you, Jerry S) if that is the look you desire. If, however, you are looking for realism based on a (...) (27 years ago, 29-Apr-99, to lugnet.trains)

Message is in Reply To:
  Re: Hey, Joe. What doors do you use on your caboose
 
Well, I generally like Joe's work but I have to take a contrary view. I feel there is a line between "successfully selectively compressed" and "too small" and I feel this particular caboose is well over that line. It's so short that it is (...) (27 years ago, 28-Apr-99, to lugnet.trains)

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