 | | driving 3v motors
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(...) The best solution here is to replace the HB's 9.6v batt with a 6v one. Once you get past the L293's, you'll be giving around 4v to the motors, which should be fine. -F (29 years ago, 5-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Enable interrupts within IC?
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Hi all, I'm trying to use IC to poke in an interrupt routine (the IC3 interrupt from pin PA0) assembled using PCBUG11 at $B600. I can set all the register bits correctly, but I can't execute the CLI (general interrupt enable) HC11 opcode from within (...) (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Re: hmph
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why not use the cars drive electronics, just bypass the radio part, it would take a little work to find the points where the motors are turned on, but it should work. Just watch out for other people with remote control units. (...) (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Re: battery voltages
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Where on the Handy Board would you plug the 6V into? and what is the J13 connector for? -John (...) (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Using cheap RC chasis as 'bot
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Hello All, Concerning the thread of RC chasis with the handyboard, I've done that (albeit with the 6.270 board) and found that it was not that tough. I was fortunate to find a decent RC van setup for only $20. It was some time past Xmas of last year (...) (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Connected Radioshack truck
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like Ram, I connected successfully a radio shack RC truck (4WS) to the handy board. for the DC motor controlling forward and backward speed, I found the 2 entries of the h bridge connecting the motor. I replaced the cheap front end steering servo (...) (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Re: Using cheap RC chasis as 'bot
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OK, time for me to chime in on this thread... The biggest problem, IMHO, with using a cheap RC car/van/truck as a 'bot base is that they all use Ackerman steering (two non-steerable driven wheels in the back, two linked, steerable, non-driven wheels (...) (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Re: Using cheap RC chasis as 'bot
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(...) The biggest problem with tank like drives is the marks/scratches on the floor. Any robot with any weight will probably damage a maple or other hardwood floor in short order. They work fin in a lab with waxed tile floors that no one cares (...) (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Re: Using cheap RC chasis as 'bot
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(...) This would be great! I've always known that my mechanical skills were nowhere near as good as my electronic/programming skills, and getting a suitable base set up is a formidable problem for me. Something like what you propose would be the (...) (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Re: Connected Radioshack truck
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(...) (snip) (...) I also have one of the Radio Shack RC trucks. A good solution for shaft encoding would be to glue a couple (or 4) magnets to the inside rim of the rear tires. Then glue a hall effect sensor to the axle. When the wheel spins, the (...) (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | RE: Connected Radioshack truck
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(...) You know what makes REALLY good REALLY cheap shaft encoders? Mice! Get an old mouse that has a broken button (that's usually what goes on mice) and pull it appart. Sometimes, depending upon the kind of mouse, you can get really luckey, and be (...) (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | battery voltages
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Regarding the use of a 6V ni-cad pack to solve my over-voltage problem in driving small motors, could I still use my current 9.6V pack, but simply insert a tap into the battery at somewhere close to 6V? Seems nicer than buying another battery pack, (...) (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Re: battery voltages
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(...) Yes, and the current capacity would be the same, since excess voltage gets dissipated in the HB's voltage regulator. -Fred (29 years ago, 6-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Robot Chassis
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Given the extensive traffic concerning robot platforms, I thought I'd add my two cents: For my senior project at Cal Poly I made a robot that had three wheels, two of which were independently driven and one which was a small caster. The chassis and (...) (29 years ago, 7-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Re: battery voltages
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(...) I'd use 6V instead of the 9.6V main power supply - connect it where the main battery terminals are. It'd be really nice if the handy board had a way to use voltages other than 9.6V for the motor driver chips, ya know. :-) (29 years ago, 7-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Using cheap RC chasis as 'bot
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I used a Fischer Price RC car: well built with two gear settings and quite battery efficient. Once the RC receiver was ripped out, there was plenty of space for the Miniboard to be mounted internally. However, I chose to mount it on top in a (...) (29 years ago, 7-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Caster Substitute
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While there is some discussion on robot bases, let me add a bit about the "third wheel", usually a caster, used on differential drive systems. Casters have the advantage that they are plentiful, cheap, and come in lots of sizes and configurations. (...) (29 years ago, 7-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | announcing the HB Expansion Board version 2.0!!
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Greetings all, The Handy Board Expansion Board version 2.0 design is complete! I'm pretty excited about the feature set, which includes a bunch of things not on the older (not released) expansion boards: * high-impedance analog inputs * PIC (...) (29 years ago, 7-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | 5mm range reflectance sensor
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Hello, I've got a 5mm range reflectance sensor which I am trying to get to work with the handyboard, without much success. Here is what I have: DigiKey part #: OR506-ND Manufacturer #: EE-SB5V The labels on the leads are as follows: .--- (+) .--, / (...) (29 years ago, 8-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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 | | Re: 5mm range reflectance sensor
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(...) Very nice ASCII graphics. I don't know this part but assuming that the + and L pins are the pins which control the transmitter, and asuming the reciever is a photo transistor that should act as a switch, I would say that you should connect the (...) (29 years ago, 8-Feb-96, to lugnet.robotics.handyboard)
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