 | | Re: 1x1 round plate light
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(...) WOW, Jimi (re:Rob) you are the master of modding..... I just repeated what my son said, but unfortunately can not type *that* here. I will say, I am blown away, and I can not believe you managed to go so small! Absolutely incredible...... (...) (20 years ago, 30-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | 1x1 round plate light
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(URL) remember the "challenge" from Lar somewhere on Lugnet a long time ago. I finally found the right sized batteries. I'll explain the ON/OFF switch one day, maybe. Maybe not. It's a nice trade secret... ;) -Rob www.brickmodder.net (20 years ago, 30-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod) !!
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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(...) I took a standard valve stem cap, cut the tip so it was flush in the brick and hot glued it into the 2x2 brick. (...) Those were given out at one of the previous BrickFest, 2002 I believe. (...) I wash them....a lot. jt (20 years ago, 26-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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(...) OK, as another Dodge Truck owner, I must ask: Is the 2X2 threaded, or did you just superglue it to the existing cap? Where did you get the brick bumper sticker? How do you keep the brake dust off your wheels? :) Darrell (20 years ago, 26-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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Thanks guys, that does sound pretty effective. And my wife will be happy that I don't need to go out and buy a new power tool! Best, - Joe (20 years ago, 25-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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(...) An alternate method: Use 1957 bricks :) Eric (20 years ago, 25-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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(...) I concur with Rob's method, that is the exact same way that I removed the tube from 2x2 bricks when I made my (URL) custom valve stem caps>, works great and is easy to do. jt (20 years ago, 25-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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"Joe Strout" <joe@strout.net> wrote in message news:I30Ju4.1MIp@lugnet.com... (...) Honestly, what I do is a little brute force , but it works nicely. Take a small pair of needle nose pliers and grip the cylinder in such a manner that one jaw of (...) (20 years ago, 25-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | how to remove center of 2x2 brick?
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I tried my very first part mod today -- my objective was to drill a clean hole in the side of a 2x2 brick, and then remove the center cylinder from the inside of the brick so I have room to stuff some things therein. The hole in the side of the (...) (20 years ago, 25-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Unfortuneatly the drips of solder would not stick to each other, so unless you put a few drops of glue in afterwards to hold it all togather, you'd loos you weights. But this isn't a bad solution. It would fill the brick near solid, and the (...) (20 years ago, 19-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Thanks guys, This will do nicely. I've used theis alloy before, but had no idea where to buy more. Mat (20 years ago, 19-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Mark, The old hollow brick sounds OK, but I'd want them in new looking black ABS, or dark grey. Besides, once I glue it shut, the world will never know! Trust me I know how to use a dremel. I've seen your work, very nice. I 've also made train (...) (20 years ago, 19-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) It's not just after handling it that you need to worry about. The acid in your skin will leech trace amounts from the surface, and you'll absorb it through your skin. You'd need to go out of your way to poison yourself in this manner, but you (...) (20 years ago, 18-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Yes, always wash your hands after handling solder! (...) I see the melting point of standard solder (63% tin, 37% lead) is 183 deg C. If I held a soldering iron and a reel of solder over an invered brick and dripped molten solder into the (...) (20 years ago, 18-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: BrickFest Friday - some photos
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(...) Rob is good at holding his piece and keeping his eyes safe from his tool. --Todd (20 years ago, 18-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: BrickFest Friday - some photos
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"Todd Lehman" <tsl@tsl.bu.edu> wrote in message news:I2J01C.G00@lugnet.com... (...) Sequence" at (...) tool (...) emulate (...) Redbeard (...) Had you guys attended my Brick Modification Seminar, you would have learned about such things as proper (...) (20 years ago, 18-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) Lead is usually added in a very small amount to make it flow into fine detail better. It's probably only a few percent lead content, so handling it wouldn't bear anywhere near the same risk of lead poisoning that handling pure lead does. (...) (...) (20 years ago, 17-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: Home made weight bricks and train base plates
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(...) I know there is tin in it, but lead - dont know. Its melting point should be a little above 100C. A friend of mine tells, that there should not be Cadmium in it, as Cadmium is toxic. (In our case they would probably end in a model rather than (...) (20 years ago, 17-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: BrickFest Friday - some photos
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(...) Of course, after posting the previous message, I realized I probably should have also mentioned using padded jaws to hold extremely small pieces rather than your fingers. Figured the opportunity to correct that would present itself in short (...) (20 years ago, 16-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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| | Re: BrickFest Friday - some photos
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(...) Eye protection...hmm...that's a really good point. Hey, ask Rob about the time he drilled his thumb and had to get 22 stitches. ;-) --Todd (20 years ago, 16-Aug-04, to lugnet.parts.mod)
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