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Well,
I have finally made an attempt at converting my Emerald Knight to run on the 9
volt track. Using the Power Functions as show in the instructions and a non
functioning train motor unit I was able to make the engine run. I gutted the
motor (carefully) out of the motor unit and use the metal wheels and contacts to
run the power functions motor. See the link for photos and descriptions.
http://www.teamsinister.net/Team_Sinister/LEGO_Train.html
Peter
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In lugnet.trains, Peter Abrahamson wrote:
> .. converting my Emerald Knight to run on the 9 volt track..
> Peter
Peter-
Very cool. And "they" said it could not be done!
Question: What about leaving the 9V motor unit intact and still running a wire
from it to the Emerald Night's motor, giving 2 motors in parallel with more
pulling power and saving the disassembly of the powered rail motor?
-Ted
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In lugnet.trains, Ted Michon wrote:
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Question: What about leaving the 9V motor unit intact and still running a wire
from it to the Emerald Night’s motor, giving 2 motors in parallel with more
pulling power and saving the disassembly of the powered rail motor?
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Good question, Ted.
That is what Ross did with the old 4.5 motor block-- he simply cut the ends off
of a 4.5 volt wire and a 9 volt wire, spliced them together, and ran the 4.5
motor off of the power from the 9 volt train motor.
JOHN
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In lugnet.trains, Ted Michon wrote:
> Question: What about leaving the 9V motor unit intact and still running a wire
> from it to the Emerald Night's motor, giving 2 motors in parallel with more
> pulling power and saving the disassembly of the powered rail motor?
>
> -Ted
Ted
Mainly due to the fact that the RPM will be different from each motor, meaning
that one motor will be working much harder than the other, thus lessening the
life of the overworked motor. Also the torque and friction is much higher in the
Power Functions (the O-rings really grip) compared to the steel wheels on steel
track.
Here is a link to an amazing site breaking down the torques and RPMs of all the
LEGO motors.
http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm
Now this is my first stab at this conversion with the trains. I am sure that
many of the hardcore LEGO train builders have done something like this or
handled it far more elegantly than I did. I do plan on trying to make a single
boggy with steel wheels and electrical pick-ups, but this will require a bit of
machining of the single axle train wheel assembly.
Peter
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Peter Abrahamson wrote:
> In lugnet.trains, Ted Michon wrote:
> Now this is my first stab at this conversion with the trains. I am sure that
> many of the hardcore LEGO train builders have done something like this or
> handled it far more elegantly than I did. I do plan on trying to make a single
> boggy with steel wheels and electrical pick-ups, but this will require a bit of
> machining of the single axle train wheel assembly.
FWIW, on the page it's "Night", and "bogey". I will probably be
ordering my EN today, and am too considering options. I have quite a
mix of 9V and RC stuff (in fact, about 1/2 the Lego trains back to 1980)
Probably I will suck it up and buy the complement of parts from Lego
shop, rather than trying to make it run 9V - (10% off, free shipping
ending today, and 5% cashback if you go via Discover card site *) -
alas, the combo sets are no longer available anywhere except on
bricklink for crazy prices.
As others I think have mentioned, putting a 9V motor in the EM
tender doesn't look ideal, although I can't immediately find
any references apart from the one in this thread.
On a related note, I presume the 9V trains will run just fine over
flex track, assuming you electrically bridge the gap otherwise -
I've done 9V crossovers before using a single RC track, you just
need to practice the direction change when it goes over.
* Also Target have EN for $80 (plus tax + shipping) and 10% off with
code NVO5WOQL (ending today) and also the Discover 5% cashback.
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In lugnet.trains, Peter Naulls wrote:
>
> FWIW, on the page it's "Night", and "bogey".
Crap, Iam an idiot, not paying attention my spelling AND, AND more importantly
the correct name of the train!
Thanks, I will fix the webpage (of course here(LUGNET) I am doomed to live with
the mistake for internet eternity)mistakes ASAP.
Peter
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Peter Naulls wrote:
> I will suck it up and buy the complement of parts from Lego
> shop, rather than trying to make it run 9V - (10% off, free shipping
> ending today, and 5% cashback if you go via Discover card site *) -
> alas, the combo sets are no longer available anywhere except on
> bricklink for crazy prices.
I have left it too late. The XL motor isn't shipping until Jan 5th,
and the controller not until April. I ordered them anyway, perhaps
they'll move it up if they get many orders.
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In lugnet.trains, Peter Abrahamson wrote:
> Now this is my first stab at this conversion with the trains. I am sure that
> many of the hardcore LEGO train builders have done something like this or
> handled it far more elegantly than I did. I do plan on trying to make a single
> boggy with steel wheels and electrical pick-ups, but this will require a bit of
> machining of the single axle train wheel assembly.
I've seen some power pickups made out of a normal train wheel covered in metal
tape. But I would assume there are metal model railroad wheels out there that
could be forced on to a technic axle or something similar. A bit more drag, but
if it is only one axle, so what. Still need brushes for pickup.
Keep us posted about any progress in that direction.
Benn
PS, Peter N., where did you get that discount code for target?
PPS, The EN is still available and on sale for 88.62 at amazon with free
shipping.
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benn wrote:
> In lugnet.trains, Peter Abrahamson wrote:
>
> PS, Peter N., where did you get that discount code for target?
I have too much time to spend digging on deal sites:
http://dealnews.com/Target-Coupons.html
But that's now expired.
>
> PPS, The EN is still available and on sale for 88.62 at amazon with free
> shipping.
That's interesting. The previous Amazon entry was actually Target's
inventory (now on back order), but one this seems not to be. In the
end I paid $85.87 including tax. That doesn't include the Discover
cash back.
Lego shop also has it on back order until Jan 11th. They are still
offering free shipping on orders over $99.
Finally, from the 7th-20th, Legoland California (which definitely
had it in stock a few days ago - I'm just 2 miles away) is offering
20% off to passholders. I'm told some restrictions apply, but I
don't know what. They also have the previous 2 RC trains, and
cross over track (but not at the same discount as online).
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In lugnet.trains, Benn Coifman wrote:
> In lugnet.trains, Peter Abrahamson wrote:
> > Now this is my first stab at this conversion with the trains. I am sure that
> > many of the hardcore LEGO train builders have done something like this or
> > handled it far more elegantly than I did. I do plan on trying to make a single
> > boggy with steel wheels and electrical pick-ups, but this will require a bit of
> > machining of the single axle train wheel assembly.
>
> I've seen some power pickups made out of a normal train wheel covered in metal
> tape. But I would assume there are metal model railroad wheels out there that
> could be forced on to a technic axle or something similar. A bit more drag, but
> if it is only one axle, so what. Still need brushes for pickup.
>
> Keep us posted about any progress in that direction.
>
> Benn
>
>
> PS, Peter N., where did you get that discount code for target?
>
> PPS, The EN is still available and on sale for 88.62 at amazon with free
> shipping.
Hi all,
Ive seen last weekend someone who showed me some brass train wheels.
Verry nice done, fitting on the standard steel axle from the cars. I gave him
some tips: isolate the wheels from the steel axle and use brass contacts on the
innerside of the wheel to pickup the power, simular as what you find in the 9V
motor. The pore pickup wheels on one track side, the better contact you have and
prevent flickering in lights. It was a proto but promessing. I hope to see it
grown into a practical usefull pickup wheel for general use, as pickup for
recharging the PF battery, passenger car light, ...
Regards,
Ludo
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In lugnet.trains, Ludo Soete wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Benn Coifman wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Peter Abrahamson wrote:
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Now this is my first stab at this conversion with the trains. I am sure that
many of the hardcore LEGO train builders have done something like this or
handled it far more elegantly than I did. I do plan on trying to make a
single boggy with steel wheels and electrical pick-ups, but this will
require a bit of machining of the single axle train wheel assembly.
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I’ve seen some power pickups made out of a normal train wheel covered in
metal tape. But I would assume there are metal model railroad wheels out
there that could be forced on to a technic axle or something similar. A bit
more drag, but if it is only one axle, so what. Still need brushes for
pickup.
Keep us posted about any progress in that direction.
Benn
PS, Peter N., where did you get that discount code for target?
PPS, The EN is still available and on sale for 88.62 at amazon with free
shipping.
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Hi all,
Ive seen last weekend someone who showed me some brass train wheels.
Verry nice done, fitting on the standard steel axle from the cars. I gave him
some tips: isolate the wheels from the steel axle and use brass contacts on
the innerside of the wheel to pickup the power, simular as what you find in
the 9V motor. The pore pickup wheels on one track side, the better contact you
have and prevent flickering in lights. It was a proto but promessing. I hope
to see it grown into a practical usefull pickup wheel for general use, as
pickup for recharging the PF battery, passenger car light, ...
Regards,
Ludo
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Not Brass, but they worked.
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=936293
I later had some steel wheels done up by a local machinist. I’ve also used some
LIONEL 0 gauge wheels. The profile is similar, just a bit wider.
Mat
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In lugnet.trains, Peter Abrahamson wrote:
> Well,
> I have finally made an attempt at converting my Emerald Knight to run on the 9
> volt track. Using the Power Functions as show in the instructions and a non
> functioning train motor unit I was able to make the engine run. I gutted the
> motor (carefully) out of the motor unit and use the metal wheels and contacts to
> run the power functions motor. See the link for photos and descriptions.
>
> http://www.teamsinister.net/Team_Sinister/LEGO_Train.html
>
> Peter
Please, please, PLEASE excuse this neophyte for such a simple question...
I have note been able to even touch my LEGO train in over three years (it's been
in storage) and I just learned about the Emerald Knight. The last time I had
any dealings with LEGO trains the RC stuff was just being brought out.
So, with that said, let me ask my neophyte question.
Why can't a 9v engine unit be attached to the Emerald Knight engine when being
built like the traditional ones? Does it have to do with the drive system on
the pistons and wheels?
Cheers!
Larry
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Larry Simpson wrote:
> In lugnet.trains, Peter Abrahamson wrote:
>
> Why can't a 9v engine unit be attached to the Emerald Knight engine when being
> built like the traditional ones? Does it have to do with the drive system on
> the pistons and wheels?
Well, I haven't opened mine yet, so this isn't for sure, but a 9V motor
really doesn't fit with the wheel configuration on the engine without
severe changes. It could be put on the tender, although that has 8
wheels, so you'd have to change the wheel configuration there - contrast
for example with 7750, where the tender is built around the motor - or
make the tender perhaps longer for it to look sensible.
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In lugnet.trains, Peter Naulls wrote:
> Larry Simpson wrote:
> > In lugnet.trains, Peter Abrahamson wrote:
>
> >
> > Why can't a 9v engine unit be attached to the Emerald Knight engine when being
> > built like the traditional ones? Does it have to do with the drive system on
> > the pistons and wheels?
>
>
> Well, I haven't opened mine yet, so this isn't for sure, but a 9V motor
> really doesn't fit with the wheel configuration on the engine without
> severe changes. It could be put on the tender, although that has 8
> wheels, so you'd have to change the wheel configuration there - contrast
> for example with 7750, where the tender is built around the motor - or
> make the tender perhaps longer for it to look sensible.
Basically, a 9V train motor doesn't fit this engine very well, in terms of both
the motor's size and look.
I've thought about using a 9V motor, too, and personally I'd use it as one of
the trucks on a passenger car, as close to the engine as possible so that it's
still pulling the majority of the train's weight -- assuming you add more cars.
The 9V motor can't really replace anything on the engine because it won't fit
where the pilot and trailing wheels are, and it obviously can't be used in place
of the drive wheels because then the pistons won't work. Using the motor as the
base of the tender is a possibility, but you'll have to modify the tender.
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In lugnet.trains, Larry Simpson wrote:
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Please, please, PLEASE excuse this neophyte for such a simple question...
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Never, never, NEVER apologize for asking a question in this forum, Larry!
We are all here to share information and promote the LEGO train hobby. There’s
no room for elitism here!
<snip>
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Why can’t a 9v engine unit be attached to the Emerald Knight engine when being
built like the traditional ones? Does it have to do with the drive system on
the pistons and wheels?
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The EN is a push train-- it doesn’t come with a motor. One can motorize it
with the PF motor, or one can simply push it with a 9 volt motor in the tender
or elsewhere. So, to answer your question-- it can.
JOHN
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In lugnet.trains, Larry Simpson wrote:
> Why can't a 9v engine unit be attached to the Emerald Knight engine when being
> built like the traditional ones? Does it have to do with the drive system on
> the pistons and wheels?
We had some luck adding a 9v motor to the tender and pushing the locomotive. We
did find that it works best if you remove the internal gearing on the locmotive,
though, to help cut down on the friction, thereby making it easier to push.
-Elroy
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In lugnet.trains, Elroy Davis wrote:
> In lugnet.trains, Larry Simpson wrote:
> > Why can't a 9v engine unit be attached to the Emerald Knight engine when being
> > built like the traditional ones? Does it have to do with the drive system on
> > the pistons and wheels?
>
> We had some luck adding a 9v motor to the tender and pushing the locomotive. We
> did find that it works best if you remove the internal gearing on the locmotive,
> though, to help cut down on the friction, thereby making it easier to push.
>
> -Elroy
Adding it to a passenger car doesn't work very well. The engine is heavy and the
internal gearing is being used in reverse, which makes it very hard to push from
further back. The 9V motor running at full power can't get enough traction to
move the train very much. But when I tested it, I hadn't removed the internal
gearing, so the motor on the passenger car might still work if the gearing is
gone.
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Jordan Bradford wrote:
> I've thought about using a 9V motor, too, and personally I'd use it as one of
> the trucks on a passenger car, as close to the engine as possible so that it's
> still pulling the majority of the train's weight -- assuming you add more cars.
> The 9V motor can't really replace anything on the engine because it won't fit
> where the pilot and trailing wheels are, and it obviously can't be used in place
> of the drive wheels because then the pistons won't work. Using the motor as the
> base of the tender is a possibility, but you'll have to modify the tender.
On another note, will the new PF stuff work with my "old" RC train
controller? As noted previously, the one I ordered is not expected
until April - or I could shell out on eBay/Bricklink. Also, has anyone
tried to use an "IR blaster" or similar with any of the RC stuff?
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In lugnet.trains, Peter Naulls wrote:
> On another note, will the new PF stuff work with my "old" RC train
> controller?
Nope. They use completely different IR protocols, unfortunately.
http://news.lugnet.com/technic/?n=16192
> As noted previously, the one I ordered is not expected
> until April - or I could shell out on eBay/Bricklink.
I'm waiting for my remote, too. :(
If you have an RCX or NXT, you can program them to send PF-compatible signals to
the PF receiver. The RCX needs different firmware to do this, and the NXT needs
an IRLink sensor such as the one from HiTechnic. See the rest of that thread I
linked above.
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