| | | | |
| |
|
What with all the recent discussion on the various designs of motorized points,
I started thinking of ways to further reduce the footprint. After many deadends
& iterations, I finally came up with this (click thumbnails to enlarge):
Heres a view of the internal mechanism:
A view of a problem car negotiating the point:
Features:
- Small (main body is 4x8 studs and 5 bricks tall)
- Fits within standard 8-stud track spacing
- Quick switching time (less than 0.1 second)
- Uses unmodified switch
- Semaphore-like arm indicates switch position
- Uses small number of common parts
This approach does exert a lot of force, but not on the switch lever itself.
Instead, the 4x3 panels absorb the hit when switching. After a while the roof
tends to lift a bit, but after about 200 iterations the thing still hadnt
self-destructed. Perhaps a second 4x8 plate on the roof will stiffen things up
a bit.
LDraw file:
http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/markril/Trains/TSwitch/tswitch.ldr
Folder when moderated (has assembly instructions):
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=65995
Cheers,
Mark
| | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
snip
Well, there it is :)
Nicely done, Mark!
Going to build a few of these things myself
Dave K
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, David Koudys wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
snip
Well, there it is :)
|
Would you believe:
I thought I had tried this. However, I guess I didnt try exactly this.
Those tiles on top and using panels with closed studs (not open studs) gives
just enough extra grip for the 2x3 panels to work. Picking and choosing your
parts for clutch strength might also help here.
Thanks, Dave!
|
Going to build a few of these things myself
|
Theyre obsolete now. :-)
LDraw file and building instructions coming soon...
Cheers,
Mark
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
Features:
- Small (main body is 4x8 studs and 5 bricks tall)
- Fits within standard 8-stud track spacing
- Quick switching time (less than 0.1 second)
- Uses unmodified switch
- Semaphore-like arm indicates switch position
- Uses small number of common parts
This approach does exert a lot of force, but not on the switch lever itself.
Instead, the 4x3 panels absorb the hit when switching. After a while the
roof tends to lift a bit, but after about 200 iterations the thing still
hadnt self-destructed. Perhaps a second 4x8 plate on the roof will stiffen
things up a bit.
|
Does the motor stall at each limit?
You could probably reduce the problem cars issue with an axle connector and
extension (move the motor further away from the switch lever) and reduce the
size of the housing a bit.
ROSCO
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Ross Crawford wrote:
|
Does the motor stall at each limit?
|
Yes, it does. Ive been using it with this
battery box and all I
need to do is tap on one of the buttons to get it to switch. Ive also been
running it with LACC with the throw time set to 0.1 second and this works great.
Havent tried it yet with a pole reverser, but you probably want to be quick.
|
You could probably reduce the problem cars issue with an axle connector and
extension (move the motor further away from the switch lever) and reduce the
size of the housing a bit.
|
Great observation! That allows the 4x8 house to perfectly straddle the joint
between the switch and the next piece of track. If the 4x6 switch version
doesnt work out, Ill put together some instructions with your suggestion.
Mark
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Ross Crawford wrote:
|
You could probably reduce the problem cars issue with an axle connector
and extension (move the motor further away from the switch lever) and reduce
the size of the housing a bit.
|
Great observation! That allows the 4x8 house to perfectly straddle the joint
between the switch and the next piece of track. If the 4x6 switch version
doesnt work out, Ill put together some instructions with your suggestion.
|
Ok, Dave is right, this is fun!
So, I added the axle joiner and this is what it looks like now:
Moving the housing back allowed the signal arm to be simplified. Since the
housing was moved back, theres now more clearance (about 1/2 stud laterally).
I also beefed up the base attachment to help deal with uneven surfaces like
carpet.
Only the 4x6 unit has shown a tendency to self-destruct. The previous 4x8
design has been holding together just fine, but this new design should be even
more stable and its been able to take everything Ive dished out. :-)
The modifications to the 4x6 design (which Im not sure even work) actually made
it enough larger that I dont know that its worth pursuing if it cant be held
down to the original 4x6 size (hey, maybe Elmers will help...).
Anyway, heres the LDraw file:
http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/markril/Trains/TSwitch3/tswitch3.ldr
Folder when moderated:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=66120
Thanks for the suggestion, Ross!
Mark
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Ross Crawford wrote:
|
You could probably reduce the problem cars issue with an axle connector
and extension (move the motor further away from the switch lever) and
reduce the size of the housing a bit.
|
Great observation! That allows the 4x8 house to perfectly straddle the
joint between the switch and the next piece of track. If the 4x6 switch
version doesnt work out, Ill put together some instructions with your
suggestion.
|
Anyway, heres the LDraw file:
http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/markril/Trains/TSwitch3/tswitch3.ldr
Folder when moderated:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=66120
Thanks for the suggestion, Ross!
|
No problem! I might even build some of these myself...
ROSCO
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | New version! Now, the main body is only 4x6 studs:
Another view of the internal mechanism:
When building this, try to use 2x3 panels which have closed studs. Also, the
two tiles on top are important for preventing the 4x6 roof plate from flexing
too much (other methods may work, too).
LDraw file:
http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/markril/Trains/TSwitch2/tswitch2.ldr
Folder when moderated (has assembly instructions):
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=66017
Mark
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
This redesign is absolutely brilliant! Time to make a couple dozen automated
switch points...
- Chris.
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Chris Phillips wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
New version! Now, the main body is only 4x6 studs:
|
This redesign is absolutely brilliant! Time to make a couple dozen automated
switch points...
|
Thanks Chris, but apparently this design as it stands is too sensitive to the
clutch strength of the components being used. Yesterday, I ran it over 100
times without the hint of a problem, but today after partially disassembling and
reassembling it, it wont go more than about 50 switches without
self-destructing. I think the primary issue is keeping the motor from
seperating from the base. Have to think about this...
Mark
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Chris Phillips wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
New version! Now, the main body is only 4x6 studs:
|
This redesign is absolutely brilliant! Time to make a couple dozen
automated switch points...
|
Thanks Chris, but apparently this design as it stands is too sensitive to the
clutch strength of the components being used. Yesterday, I ran it over 100
times without the hint of a problem, but today after partially disassembling
and reassembling it, it wont go more than about 50 switches without
self-destructing. I think the primary issue is keeping the motor from
seperating from the base. Have to think about this...
Mark
|
I built one of Marks last night, and yes, even with the closed studs and other
avenues of keepin it together, the plates adn motor do eventually come loose.
Sometimes its 20 times, sometimes its 60-80 times, but the unit does work
itself to self destruct mode.
Let me tell you that when the Metroliner is zooming around the layout and all of
a sudden theres a 2x3 panel on the rails... much fun and destruction ensues :)
Thank goodness some guy whom I cant remember made up DCC for LEGO trains...
Full stop on all locos, thus preventing cascading train wrecks :)
Anyway, As for fixing... if theres a way to get a half thick technic beam to
bound the bottom and top together... but I cant figure out how--or maybe some
other technic-way of locking the unit together...
Ill try a few things tonight.
Dave K
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, David Koudys wrote:
|
I built one of Marks last night, and yes, even with the closed studs and
other avenues of keepin it together, the plates adn motor do eventually
come loose. Sometimes its 20 times, sometimes its 60-80 times, but the unit
does work itself to self destruct mode.
|
Dave, which version did you build (the 4x8 version or the 4x6 version)? My 4x8
seems to be holding together at the moment... knock on wood.
I did notice that the transparent panels (vs. the opaque ones) are made of a
stiffer material and seem to work much better in this application. So, it may
not be the open vs. closed studs but the material that matters.
Yes, a brick-plate-plate-brick type method is whats called for here, but I
havent come up with any elegant solutions yet.
Cheers,
Mark
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, David Koudys wrote:
|
I built one of Marks last night, and yes, even with the closed studs and
other avenues of keepin it together, the plates adn motor do eventually
come loose. Sometimes its 20 times, sometimes its 60-80 times, but the
unit does work itself to self destruct mode.
|
Dave, which version did you build (the 4x8 version or the 4x6 version)? My
4x8 seems to be holding together at the moment... knock on wood.
|
Yeah, I used the 4x6 version (2 wide panels), and eventually one of the panels
would go flying, or the motor would pop up. But it does last a bit, and its
like Russian Roulette--when is the switcher going to self destruct and will
that destruction cause havoc on the rails? Place yer bets!
|
I did notice that the transparent panels (vs. the opaque ones) are made of a
stiffer material and seem to work much better in this application. So, it
may not be the open vs. closed studs but the material that matters.
|
Ill see tonite.
|
Yes, a brick-plate-plate-brick type method is whats called for here, but I
havent come up with any elegant solutions yet.
|
Just thinking at work about it makes my day go by faster :)
Dave K
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, David Koudys wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, David Koudys wrote:
|
I built one of Marks last night, and yes, even with the closed studs and
other avenues of keepin it together, the plates adn motor do eventually
come loose. Sometimes its 20 times, sometimes its 60-80 times, but the
unit does work itself to self destruct mode.
|
Dave, which version did you build (the 4x8 version or the 4x6 version)? My
4x8 seems to be holding together at the moment... knock on wood.
|
Yeah, I used the 4x6 version (2 wide panels), and eventually one of the
panels would go flying, or the motor would pop up. But it does last a bit,
and its like Russian Roulette--when is the switcher going to self destruct
and will that destruction cause havoc on the rails? Place yer bets!
|
Well, all is not lost... I think I have a workable solution, though it isnt as
elegant looking as before and adds 1 brick to the height:
And:
It uses Plate 2 x 2 with Hole (#2444) to secure the bottom of the motor:
This part does protrude beyond the base of the unit by a fraction of a plate,
but its hardly noticable.
I tested it 500 times on my desk and the carpet and it held together. The
roof plate does still want to separate, but it reaches a limit and then doesnt
separate further. Ill have to do some more testing before posting instructions
this time. :-D
BTW, I hope your Metroliner did not suffer serious injury (again :-P).
Mark
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
snip
|
BTW, I hope your Metroliner did not suffer serious injury (again :-P).
Mark
|
Its like the first scratch on a new vehicle--after that you really dont care
anymore. Baah--just another scuff :)
My switches are pretty much on the inside of my layout so even if a train does
derail due to a faulty switch mechanism, the train just falls off the track onto
the layout--nowhere near the floor :)
Dave K
-who will try this latest iteration when he gets home tonight!
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
| Mark Riley wrote:
> In lugnet.trains, Chris Phillips wrote:
>
> > In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
> >
> > > New version! Now, the main body is only 4x6 studs:
> > >
> > > <http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/markril/Trains/TSwitch2/a1.jpg
> > > <http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/markril/Trains/TSwitch2/thumb/a1.jpg_thumb.jpg>>
> >
> > This redesign is absolutely brilliant! Time to make a couple dozen automated
> > switch points...
>
>
> Thanks Chris, but apparently this design as it stands is too sensitive to the
> clutch strength of the components being used. Yesterday, I ran it over 100
> times without the hint of a problem, but today after partially disassembling and
> reassembling it, it won't go more than about 50 switches without
> self-destructing. I think the primary issue is keeping the motor from
> seperating from the base. Have to think about this...
>
> Mark
Mark,
Do you have an extra speed regulator lying around? If the answer is
yes, then you could run all of your powered points off a speed regulator
that isn't set to full power. Two problems solved! Nice small design by
the way.
Oh yeah, problem car... peshaw... think bigger! Build them wide,
8-wide, build them big, real big, and damn the torpedos, the buildings
too :)
Chris M
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Christopher Masi wrote:
> Do you have an extra speed regulator lying around? If the answer is
> yes, then you could run all of your powered points off a speed regulator
> that isn't set to full power. Two problems solved!
Great idea! I just tried this with the speed regulator set to level 4 (6 being
max) and it reduces the impact considerably, but there's still enough power for
a reliable throw. I've been using the motorized switches with my RCX (running
LACC) and this suggests a new feature of allowing the power level to be adjusted
when throwing the switch.
> Nice small design by
> the way.
Thank you.
> Oh yeah, problem car... peshaw... think bigger! Build them wide,
> 8-wide, build them big, real big, and damn the torpedos, the buildings
> too :)
And, everything else that gets in the way! Jeez, building 6-wide cars is
expensive enough, I can only imagine what it costs in parts for a nice long
8-wide loco...
Thanks for the suggestion,
Mark
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Chris Phillips wrote:
|
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
|
New version! Now, the main body is only 4x6 studs:
|
This redesign is absolutely brilliant! Time to make a couple dozen
automated switch points...
|
Thanks Chris, but apparently this design as it stands is too sensitive to the
clutch strength of the components being used. Yesterday, I ran it over 100
times without the hint of a problem, but today after partially disassembling
and reassembling it, it wont go more than about 50 switches without
self-destructing. I think the primary issue is keeping the motor from
seperating from the base. Have to think about this...
|
Hi Mark,
Along with Chris, I totally agree that your design is brilliant. I tested both
versions (long and short) and both prooved to be very stable with my switch
points. At least after 200 tests. To be honest, I oil my switch points with pure
vaseline oil, as mentioned in a former message
(http://news.lugnet.com/trains/?n=21873) and this reduces very significantly
the effort needed by the motor to action the switch point. It may contribute to
the mechanical stability of your system.
Thank you Mark for this great contribution. Now all my 71427-based power unit
are build from your proposal. :-)
All the best,
Philippe.
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Philippe Label wrote:
|
Along with Chris, I totally agree that your design is brilliant. I tested
both versions (long and short) and both prooved to be very stable with my
switch points. At least after 200 tests. To be honest, I oil my switch points
with pure vaseline oil, as mentioned in a former message
(http://news.lugnet.com/trains/?n=21873) and this reduces very
significantly the effort needed by the motor to action the switch point. It
may contribute to the mechanical stability of your system.
|
Thanks, Philippe. I must say that it was your article at the FreeLUG site that
got me thinking along these lines. I remember having to search all over the
place when I was working on my first motorized switch!
Heres the latest version of the 4x6 switch unit:
In this version, the base attachment has been enlarged and strengthened and
another 4x6 plate was added to the roof. The three 1x1 plates from the previous
version were also eliminated as I considered these to be a source of weakness.
I built four of these and all of them are holding together very well. Ive been
using the transparent 2x3 panels from set 4561 as Ive found these to be a lot stiffer than the other opaque panels Ive
tried (besides, it just plain looks cooler with the transparent panels... :-).
Brickshelf folder (with LDraw file and building instructions):
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=66192
I will have to try the vaseline oil on one of my switches, as this switch is
very difficult to throw because of internal friction.
Cheers,
Mark
| | | | | | |