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I'm considering using Micro Motors for the two entrances in my new castle. Has
anyone else done this? What about Lego lights (from L&S sets) being used
inside various shops or rooms inside the castle?
There are numerous other instances where a motor could be used in the castle,
various siege elements, cranes, opening/closing doors.
I'm just not sure I like motorizing castle creations. It seems a little out of
place I guess.
-Mike Ulring
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In lugnet.castle, Michael Ulring writes:
> I'm considering using Micro Motors for the two entrances in my new castle.
> Has anyone else done this? What about Lego lights (from L&S sets) being used
> inside various shops or rooms inside the castle?
>
> There are numerous other instances where a motor could be used in the castle,
> various siege elements, cranes, opening/closing doors.
>
> I'm just not sure I like motorizing castle creations. It seems a little out
> of place I guess.
I haven't done any motorizing, but I have done lighting. I use the 9v system
as opposed to L&S stuff, and it works fairly well, the only problem is that
it's a bit dim. However, with a red cap (as comes in one of the service
packs) they work well as 'glow' from a fireplace. I use them behind stoves,
and underneath fires. A fireplace piled with red & orange trans- 1x1's looks
really cool with a light behind it.
I'm considering tracking down another battery pack, to see if that makes a
difference in the dimness, cause I've got ~8 or 9 running off one pack.
James
http://www.shades-of-night.com/lego/
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James Brown writes:
> I haven't done any motorizing, but I have done lighting. I use the 9v
> system as opposed to L&S stuff, and it works fairly well, the only problem
> is that it's a bit dim. However, with a red cap (as comes in one of the
> service packs) they work well as 'glow' from a fireplace. I use them
> behind stoves, and underneath fires. A fireplace piled with red & orange
> trans- 1x1's looks really cool with a light behind it.
Having been a Castle-only collector, I'm really not at all familiar with any
motorized or lighting elements. Could you please explain a little more about
how you did what you describe? Where did you hide the power source? Where did
you run the wires so that they weren't visible? And so on. This sounds like a
fascinating idea!
Rick Kurtzuba
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In lugnet.castle, Rick Kurtzuba writes:
> James Brown writes:
> > I haven't done any motorizing, but I have done lighting. I use the 9v
> > system as opposed to L&S stuff, and it works fairly well, the only problem
> > is that it's a bit dim. However, with a red cap (as comes in one of the
> > service packs) they work well as 'glow' from a fireplace. I use them
> > behind stoves, and underneath fires. A fireplace piled with red & orange
> > trans- 1x1's looks really cool with a light behind it.
>
> Having been a Castle-only collector, I'm really not at all familiar with any
> motorized or lighting elements. Could you please explain a little more about
> how you did what you describe? Where did you hide the power source? Where
> did you run the wires so that they weren't visible? And so on. This sounds
> like a fascinating idea!
It's not all that tricky, actually. I used two methods, mostly. For
fireplaces, I put the light brick right into the back wall of the fireplace,
and piled the fireplace high with trans-red, trans-yellow and trans-orange 1x1
round plates. Makes a really cool-looking effect, especially with 1 or 2
flames sticking up.
The other thing I did was for my kitchen, where I had a bread oven, a stove
and a kettle all side by side. In this case, I put several lights behind the
wall, and just left holes in the backs of the stove et al. to let the light
through. It worked well, except that it's very dim. I still think that might
be because I'm using several lights off a single battery pack.
As for hiding things, it wasn't that hard in my case. I just cheated. :)
My current model backs onto a mountain, so all the wiring and such is hidden
"behind" the mountain side.
My wife is more ambitious with her castle - she's hiding the wire runs in
chimneys and under floors, which is working out really well.
One of my friends, upon seeing all the 9v wires I had running tidily (I used
1x3 arch bricks to keep them neat) behind the mountain commented that I *must*
be a computer geek - even my castle has cable runs! :)
I'm in the process of rebuilding my webpage, which will have pictures of all
this stuff. (though it doesn't now)
James
http://www.shades-of-night.com/lego/
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"James Brown" <galliard@shades-of-night.com> writes:
> It worked well, except that it's very dim. I still think
> that might be because I'm using several lights off a single
> battery pack.
If you're using standard LEGO electrical parts (plates, wires, etc)
aren't the lights hooked up in parallel? If so, then the only reason for
dim lights would be low batteries, right?
--Bram
Bram Lambrecht / o o \ BramL@juno.com
-------------------oooo-----(_)-----oooo-------------------
WWW: http://www.chuh.org/Students/Bram-Lambrecht/
-----------------------------------------------------------
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Bram Lambrecht wrote:
>
> "James Brown" <galliard@shades-of-night.com> writes:
> > It worked well, except that it's very dim. I still think
> > that might be because I'm using several lights off a single
> > battery pack.
>
> If you're using standard LEGO electrical parts (plates, wires, etc)
> aren't the lights hooked up in parallel? If so, then the only reason for
> dim lights would be low batteries, right?
If you put enough lights in parallel, they will start to dim. Since we
have no ideal power sources, all power sources will put out a lower
voltage as the load increases. Batteries are pretty good, and can dump
their energy pretty quick. A shorted battery can get extremely hot,
though that fact also points out another bit, as the load increases, a
larger percentage of the energy being discharged will be converted to
heat in the battery itself and not go to the load.
*very technical discussion follows*
The way to look at this: a real power source may be modeled as an ideal
power source, in series with a resistor. Now this resistor (R1) has a
fairly low resistance compared to the load (R2). The equation for the
voltage across the load is V*R2/(R1+R2), now when R2 is large compared
to R1, we can ignore R1 and the voltage across the load is V, but as the
load increases, the significance of R1 becomes higher. Note that the
resistance of a set of identical loads (each load is R3) in parallel is
R3/N.
--
Frank Filz
-----------------------------
Work: mailto:ffilz@us.ibm.com (business only please)
Home: mailto:ffilz@mindspring.com
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In lugnet.castle, Frank Filz writes:
> Bram Lambrecht wrote:
> >
> > "James Brown" <galliard@shades-of-night.com> writes:
> > > It worked well, except that it's very dim. I still think
> > > that might be because I'm using several lights off a single
> > > battery pack.
> >
> > If you're using standard LEGO electrical parts (plates, wires, etc)
> > aren't the lights hooked up in parallel? If so, then the only reason for
> > dim lights would be low batteries, right?
>
> If you put enough lights in parallel, they will start to dim. Since we
> have no ideal power sources, all power sources will put out a lower
> voltage as the load increases. Batteries are pretty good, and can dump
> their energy pretty quick. A shorted battery can get extremely hot,
> though that fact also points out another bit, as the load increases, a
> larger percentage of the energy being discharged will be converted to
> heat in the battery itself and not go to the load.
I'm not sure if that's what I'm running into or not. My lights are rather
buried in my castle, and I can't say I'm willing to dig them out right now. I
am running (if memory serves correctly) 8 or 9 lights off one box, and 4 of
those are the 'police' lights (1x4 brick, two lights on top that alternate), so
about 12 bulbs in total, running off 1 battery box through 3 9v wires, and a
number of the conducting plates.
All that being said though, I'm fairly certain that the big reason the lights
are dim is that Lego lights *are* dim. They just don't shed a whole lotta
light.
James
http://www.shades-of-night.com/lego/
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In lugnet.castle, James Brown writes:
> I'm not sure if that's what I'm running into or not. My lights are rather
> buried in my castle, and I can't say I'm willing to dig them out right now. I
> am running (if memory serves correctly) 8 or 9 lights off one box, and 4 of
> those are the 'police' lights (1x4 brick, two lights on top that alternate), • so
> about 12 bulbs in total, running off 1 battery box through 3 9v wires, and a
> number of the conducting plates.
>
> All that being said though, I'm fairly certain that the big reason the lights
> are dim is that Lego lights *are* dim. They just don't shed a whole lotta
> light.
Well, here's a question for you: what kind of box is it? Is it the 4x8?x2?
battery box with the single grey button (runs off 1 9v battery), or the
4x12?x3? battery box w/ 2 buttons (runs off 6 AA batteries)? I think (if memory
serves) that running lots of lights off of a little (9v battery) box was a lot
dimmer than using the larger box (6 AA's)... Otherwise, can you hook up
multiple boxes to add power? I forget whether that works or not... But I seem
to remember 6 AA's working a lot better than a single 9v...
DaveE
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In lugnet.castle, David Eaton writes:
> In lugnet.castle, James Brown writes:
> > I'm not sure if that's what I'm running into or not. My lights are rather
> > buried in my castle, and I can't say I'm willing to dig them out right now.
> > I am running (if memory serves correctly) 8 or 9 lights off one box, and 4 of
> > those are the 'police' lights (1x4 brick, two lights on top that alternate),
> > so about 12 bulbs in total, running off 1 battery box through 3 9v wires, and
> > a number of the conducting plates.
> >
> > All that being said though, I'm fairly certain that the big reason the lights
> > are dim is that Lego lights *are* dim. They just don't shed a whole lotta
> > light.
>
> Well, here's a question for you: what kind of box is it? Is it the 4x8?x2?
> battery box with the single grey button (runs off 1 9v battery), or the
> 4x12?x3? battery box w/ 2 buttons (runs off 6 AA batteries)? I think (if
> memory serves) that running lots of lights off of a little (9v battery) box
> was a lot dimmer than using the larger box (6 AA's)... Otherwise, can you hook
> up multiple boxes to add power? I forget whether that works or not... But I
> seem to remember 6 AA's working a lot better than a single 9v...
I'm using the larger battery box. I haven't tried multple boxes yet, mostly
because I haven't dug up 6 spare batteries yet. I will try it when I get a
chance, and let people know the result.
James
http://www.shades-of-night.com/lego/
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In lugnet.castle, James Brown writes:
> In lugnet.castle, David Eaton writes:
> > In lugnet.castle, James Brown writes:
> > > I'm not sure if that's what I'm running into or not. My lights are rather
> > > buried in my castle, and I can't say I'm willing to dig them out right now.
> > > I am running (if memory serves correctly) 8 or 9 lights off one box, and 4 of
> > > those are the 'police' lights (1x4 brick, two lights on top that alternate),
> > > so about 12 bulbs in total, running off 1 battery box through 3 9v wires, and
> > > a number of the conducting plates.
> > >
> > > All that being said though, I'm fairly certain that the big reason the lights
> > > are dim is that Lego lights *are* dim. They just don't shed a whole lotta
> > > light.
> >
> > Well, here's a question for you: what kind of box is it? Is it the 4x8?x2?
> > battery box with the single grey button (runs off 1 9v battery), or the
> > 4x12?x3? battery box w/ 2 buttons (runs off 6 AA batteries)? I think (if
> > memory serves) that running lots of lights off of a little (9v battery) box
> > was a lot dimmer than using the larger box (6 AA's)... Otherwise, can you hook
> > up multiple boxes to add power? I forget whether that works or not... But I
> > seem to remember 6 AA's working a lot better than a single 9v...
>
> I'm using the larger battery box. I haven't tried multple boxes yet, mostly
> because I haven't dug up 6 spare batteries yet. I will try it when I get a
> chance, and let people know the result.
>
> James
> http://www.shades-of-night.com/lego/
My 2 cents worth to solve the problem of dim lights: why not not try using a
plug-in transformer from one of the train sets? Not only will this support a
large load of lights, but you will actually have complete remote control over
the whole light array and never needlessly drain batteries.
Dan
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In lugnet.castle, Daniel Siskind writes:
> > I'm using the larger battery box. I haven't tried multple boxes yet, mostly
> > because I haven't dug up 6 spare batteries yet. I will try it when I get a
> > chance, and let people know the result.
>
> My 2 cents worth to solve the problem of dim lights: why not not try using a
> plug-in transformer from one of the train sets? Not only will this support a
> large load of lights, but you will actually have complete remote control over
> the whole light array and never needlessly drain batteries.
I'm not using one because I don't have one. ;)
If I ever see a train with enough castle-applicable parts to interest me, at a
good discount, I may get one. Until then, I shall rely on the battery box.
Unless there's some altruistic train-head out there with too many of these?
BTW, I still haven't had an opportunity to try two of the large battery boxes,
but I have substituted the smaller for the larger, and it made a huge
difference in how dim it was. So I'm thinking that two boxes might make the
whole thing brighter.
James
http://www.shades-of-night.com/lego/
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James Brown wrote:
> In lugnet.castle, Daniel Siskind writes:
> > > I'm using the larger battery box. I haven't tried multple boxes yet, mostly
> > > because I haven't dug up 6 spare batteries yet. I will try it when I get a
> > > chance, and let people know the result.
> >
> > My 2 cents worth to solve the problem of dim lights: why not not try using a
> > plug-in transformer from one of the train sets? Not only will this support a
> > large load of lights, but you will actually have complete remote control over
> > the whole light array and never needlessly drain batteries.
>
> I'm not using one because I don't have one. ;)
> If I ever see a train with enough castle-applicable parts to interest me, at a
> good discount, I may get one. Until then, I shall rely on the battery box.
> Unless there's some altruistic train-head out there with too many of these?
>
> BTW, I still haven't had an opportunity to try two of the large battery boxes,
> but I have substituted the smaller for the larger, and it made a huge
> difference in how dim it was. So I'm thinking that two boxes might make the
> whole thing brighter.
>
> James
> http://www.shades-of-night.com/lego/
Just buy a tranformer seperatly.
--
Jonathan Wilson
wilsonj@xoommail.com
http://members.xoom.com/wilsonj/
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James Brown wrote in message ...
> In lugnet.castle, Daniel Siskind writes:
> > > I'm using the larger battery box. I haven't tried multple boxes yet, • mostly
> > > because I haven't dug up 6 spare batteries yet. I will try it when I get • a
> > > chance, and let people know the result.
> >
> > My 2 cents worth to solve the problem of dim lights: why not not try using • a
> > plug-in transformer from one of the train sets? Not only will this • support a
> > large load of lights, but you will actually have complete remote control • over
> > the whole light array and never needlessly drain batteries.
>
> I'm not using one because I don't have one. ;)
> If I ever see a train with enough castle-applicable parts to interest me, • at a
> good discount, I may get one. Until then, I shall rely on the battery box.
> Unless there's some altruistic train-head out there with too many of these?
Ask in Buy Sell Trade, you will get a response. Many trainheads have way too
many (Larry P. always pipes up that he will sell one).
Another option, go to Radio Shack and get a wall wart with a 9v connector,
and connect it to the terminals in a small battery box (now is anyone going
to claim that's a non-LEGO pure solution? You are replacing a component
which LEGO provides for you to use, but doesn't sell. Hmm, does that make
any LEGO creation using battery boxes impure?)
Frank
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In lugnet.castle, Frank Filz writes:
>
> James Brown wrote in message ...
> > > My 2 cents worth to solve the problem of dim lights: why not not try using
> > > a plug-in transformer from one of the train sets? Not only will this
> > > support a large load of lights, but you will actually have complete remote
> > > control over the whole light array and never needlessly drain batteries.
> >
> > I'm not using one because I don't have one. ;)
> > If I ever see a train with enough castle-applicable parts to interest me,
> > at a good discount, I may get one. Until then, I shall rely on the battery
> > box. Unless there's some altruistic train-head out there with too many of
> > these?
>
> Ask in Buy Sell Trade, you will get a response. Many trainheads have way too
> many (Larry P. always pipes up that he will sell one).
<grin> The reason I didn't bother asking in BST would be because I'm not
actually interested enough to *pay* for one.
Besides, my budget for non-retail Lego is woefully slim right now, so I'm
going to spend it on pieces, not wiring. :)
James
http://www.shades-of-night.com/lego/
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James Brown wrote in message ...
> In lugnet.castle, Frank Filz writes:
> >
> > James Brown wrote in message ...
> > > > My 2 cents worth to solve the problem of dim lights: why not not try • using
> > > > a plug-in transformer from one of the train sets? Not only will this
> > > > support a large load of lights, but you will actually have complete • remote
> > > > control over the whole light array and never needlessly drain batteries.
> > >
> > > I'm not using one because I don't have one. ;)
> > > If I ever see a train with enough castle-applicable parts to interest me,
> > > at a good discount, I may get one. Until then, I shall rely on the • battery
> > > box. Unless there's some altruistic train-head out there with too many of
> > > these?
> >
> > Ask in Buy Sell Trade, you will get a response. Many trainheads have way • too
> > many (Larry P. always pipes up that he will sell one).
>
> <grin> The reason I didn't bother asking in BST would be because I'm not
> actually interested enough to *pay* for one.
> Besides, my budget for non-retail Lego is woefully slim right now, so I'm
> going to spend it on pieces, not wiring. :)
You might still ask. Offer to pay the shipping cost. Someone who has way to
many might just give you one. Of course if you think about the cost of
batteries, the $20ish that it would cost you for a controller would be well
worth it.
Frank
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In lugnet.castle, Frank Filz writes:
> > > > > My 2 cents worth to solve the problem of dim lights: why not not try
> > > > > using a plug-in transformer from one of the train sets? Not only will
> > > > > this support a large load of lights, but you will actually have complete
> > > > > remote control over the whole light array and never needlessly drain
> > > > > batteries. • <sniped bits>
> > <grin> The reason I didn't bother asking in BST would be because I'm not
> > actually interested enough to *pay* for one.
>
> You might still ask. Offer to pay the shipping cost. Someone who has way to
> many might just give you one. Of course if you think about the cost of
> batteries, the $20ish that it would cost you for a controller would be well
> worth it.
Sure, why not. It can't hurt to ask, neh?
Is there anyone out there willing to give me a plug-in transformer? I'll pay
shipping costs, either as cash, or as credit in my next parts sale. Heck, if
someone steps up to bat, I'll offer them credit in my next sale, at whatever we
work out as fair.
Any altruists out there?
James
http://www.shades-of-night.com/lego/
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James Brown wrote:
> > Ask in Buy Sell Trade, you will get a response. Many trainheads have way too
> > many (Larry P. always pipes up that he will sell one).
I heard that. It's true. 20 plus postage for a used one, 25 plus postage
for a new one. Standing offer.
> <grin> The reason I didn't bother asking in BST would be because I'm not
> actually interested enough to *pay* for one.
> Besides, my budget for non-retail Lego is woefully slim right now, so I'm
> going to spend it on pieces, not wiring. :)
So you have money to blow on batteries but not on the more ecologically
sound alternative?? Take the long view (say, more than 5 hours worth,
how long a set of batteries will last) and make the investment in our
childrens future.
I can't beleive I just said that.
--
Larry Pieniazek larryp@novera.com http://my.voyager.net/lar
- - - Web Application Integration! http://www.novera.com
fund Lugnet(tm): http://www.ebates.com/ ref: lar, 1/2 $$ to lugnet.
NOTE: Soon to be lpieniazek@tsisoft.com :-)
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In lugnet.castle, Larry Pieniazek writes:
> James Brown wrote:
> > <grin> The reason I didn't bother asking in BST would be because I'm not
> > actually interested enough to *pay* for one.
> > Besides, my budget for non-retail Lego is woefully slim right now, so I'm
> > going to spend it on pieces, not wiring. :)
>
> So you have money to blow on batteries but not on the more ecologically
> sound alternative?? Take the long view (say, more than 5 hours worth,
> how long a set of batteries will last) and make the investment in our
> childrens future.
I run the batteries for 5-10 minute periods when showing it off or taking
pictures. 6 batteries have lasted me well over a year now. Batteries=cheap.
We also have lots of other stuff in the house that can use batteries and that
don't have a DC plug. Batteries=versatile.
(previous to discussion) We can get batteries at Radio Shack, a Lego power
source involves buying something I don't want <trains>. Batteries=available.
Power supply has a cord, batteries don't. Batteries=portable.
We have a battery recycle bin at work. Batteries!=environmentally unfriendly.
For most applications, batteries win.
All that being said, someone is sending me a spare they have in exchange for
credit in my sale.
So the point becomes rapidly moot. :)
James
http://www.shades-of-night.com/lego/
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In lugnet.castle, Daniel Siskind writes:
<snipped discussion about why LEGO lights are dim>
> My 2 cents worth to solve the problem of dim lights: why not not try using a
> plug-in transformer from one of the train sets? Not only will this support a
> large load of lights, but you will actually have complete remote control over
> the whole light array and never needlessly drain batteries.
Well, James Powell was kind enough to send me a transformer out of his
spares(1), and I hooked it up this weekend as a test. Long and short of it:
the lights are significantly brighter with the transformer.
Which is cool, because now I don't have to turn the (room) lights out when I'm
showing off my castle. ;) I still haven't checked to see how it turns out in
pictures, though.
James
http://www.shades-of-night.com/lego/
1:in exchange for credit in my next sale. Thanks James!
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"James Brown" <galliard@shades-of-night.com> writes:
> All that being said though, I'm fairly certain that the big reason the
> lights are dim is that Lego lights *are* dim. They just don't shed a
> whole lotta light.
Actually, you can get the lights to project pretty far by placing one of
those silver headlight dishes around the light bulb. This works great
for the light on the front of a steam train.
--Bram
Bram Lambrecht / o o \ BramL@juno.com
-------------------oooo-----(_)-----oooo-------------------
WWW: http://www.chuh.org/Students/Bram-Lambrecht/
-----------------------------------------------------------
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In lugnet.castle, James Brown writes:
> In lugnet.castle, Michael Ulring writes:
> > I'm considering using Micro Motors for the two entrances in my new castle.
> > Has anyone else done this? What about Lego lights (from L&S sets) being used
> > inside various shops or rooms inside the castle?
> >
> > There are numerous other instances where a motor could be used in the castle,
> > various siege elements, cranes, opening/closing doors.
> >
> > I'm just not sure I like motorizing castle creations. It seems a little out
> > of place I guess.
>
> I haven't done any motorizing, but I have done lighting. I use the 9v system
> as opposed to L&S stuff, and it works fairly well, the only problem is that
> it's a bit dim. However, with a red cap (as comes in one of the service
> packs) they work well as 'glow' from a fireplace. I use them behind stoves,
> and underneath fires. A fireplace piled with red & orange trans- 1x1's looks
> really cool with a light behind it.
Well it took a year & a half before I got around to updating my webpage, but
there's a picture of this effect on there now:
http://www.lugnet.com/castle/~11/blankshields/mount2c
James
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In lugnet.castle, Michael Ulring writes:
> I'm considering using Micro Motors for the two entrances in my new castle. • Has
> anyone else done this? What about Lego lights (from L&S sets) being used
> inside various shops or rooms inside the castle?
>
> There are numerous other instances where a motor could be used in the castle,
> various siege elements, cranes, opening/closing doors.
>
> I'm just not sure I like motorizing castle creations. It seems a little out • of
> place I guess.
>
> -Mike Ulring
My own motor-use in a castle was for a working water-wheel jutting from the
side of the castle into the river-area. By building a fairly large wheel out of
bricks and Technic elements, and gearing the motor down slightly, I managed to
make the wheel turn at a very slow, realistic pace.
The motor was built into the the castle wall, the battery box had a couple of
BURP's covering it - a cunningly positioned technic rod acted as a button to
activate the concealed battery.
The same castle also utilised a pneumatic system for the drawbridge, although
this was a lot more difficult to cover - I have a ton more BURP's now, so maybe
I could build this system into a more satisfactory mountain base.
I say run with the out-of-place - just use whatever you have to get the desired
effect, which is one of the points of Lego, after all...
Stu C.
University of Glasgow
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I used pneumatics to make a castle tower extend as a telescope. Obviously,
it was a fantasy castle.
http://homepages.svc.fcj.hvu.nl/brok/legomind/models
Select Buildings: Frost Castle.
Eric Brok
--------
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