Subject:
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Re: Question about point/switch modifications.
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Fri, 9 Apr 2004 02:43:22 GMT
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Viewed:
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1616 times
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I've sold a few of my custom crossovers on eBay so I thought I'd chime in about
cutting tracks and other track mods.
I always remove the rails before cutting and my cutting is done with a single
edge razor blade, making a rough cut first, then cleaning it up with smaller
cuts with the razor. My crossovers didn't require soldering since the rails fit
back onto the crossover after the mod. I've made a few half and quarter
straights and curves, but they're too time consuming for me. They didn't require
soldering either, the rails were cut to length, then reattached after the mods
were done on the plastic.
The secret IMO to solderless mods is to use a long strip of conductive aluminum
tape on top of the modified area before reattaching the rails. You can get this
tape at places that sell auto parts/supplies. The tape will conduct electricity
and so long as your metal track cuts are smooth and flush you shouldn't have any
derailment or other problems.
Best of all, if you use a razor to cut instead of a motorized tool, and
conductive tape instead of solder, you can do these mods anywhere, you're not
limited to being near an electrical outlet.
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: Question about point/switch modifications.
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| My observations: 1. Dremel disks break. Get a good pair of Safety Glasses _AND USE THEM_. How do I mod track? Jewelers saw, Dremel, File, 5 min epoxie, small soldering iron, 2x6 lego brick, 2x4 lego plate, solder & rosin flux. Take saw. Cut plastic (...) (20 years ago, 10-Apr-04, to lugnet.trains)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: Question about point/switch modifications.
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| (...) There are other options available. Rotary tools come in three standard groupings: single speed (on/off), multi-speed (2 or more fixed speeds), and variable speed (low, high, and everything between). Mine is a Craftsman-label manufactured by (...) (20 years ago, 8-Apr-04, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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