Subject:
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Re: Question about point/switch modifications.
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Thu, 8 Apr 2004 09:09:36 GMT
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Viewed:
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2558 times
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In lugnet.trains, Jason J. Railton wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, David Koudys wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Jason J. Railton wrote:
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I’m impressed by the quality of these modifications, but can anyone direct
me to anyone who’s done anything simpler. I’m talking about converting the
branch so that it’s equivalent to two standard curves, whilst keeping it all
as one piece. Making the extra fractional curves and straights so that the
point can work in standard or modified configuration seems a bit too much
work to me.
Jason Railton
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My first modification was exactly that--one piece switch in which the curved
section is equal to 2 standard curved sections.
Look lower on the page--
http://sparky.i989.net/ltrain.htm
It’s a pretty simple procedure--cut up a curved piece and cut the end off the
switch. Stich the switch and the curved pieces together and et voila!
Take care,
Dave K
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OK thanks - I wasn’t looking closely enough. Do you have any more pictures
from the procedure? Although I presume you did the same to re-attach the bits
as you did on the new procedure.
I gather you’re cutting the branch off immediately after the first studded
sleeper/cross member, then adding the end seven studs from a curve? Or is
there a more precise measurement required?
Jason Railton
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I’m not that good on the first cut--precision doesn’t quite work for me. I
lopped off the end of the switch just after the third tie (third would be
including the half tie at the end), I cut up a curved track just on the outside
of the center tie. This gives you much ‘overlap’ to trim down the pieces to
fit. By using two joined curved pieces as a template (as shown), I trimmed down
the cut ends until they came together exactly with no binding, twisting or gaps
between the pieces.
Trimming I find to be much more accurate--I can shave off little amounts at a
time, resulting in ‘the perfect fit’
I’ve received e-mails from others who cut the track pieces lengthwise thru the
tie itself, thus giving more surface area for glueing (and will be pretty
precise right from the get-go if you cut the tie properly). I’m not that good
at straight clean cuts across 8 studs yet--I may endeavour to do such cuts in
the future when I get some sort of mini-tablesaw or chopsaw set up.
These two items were made by train hobbyists and were on display at a train show
I attended years ago. I’m becoming interested in making one of my own, if my
interest in modifying track pieces keeps up. The Dremel is good for what it
does, but having a fence or a guide wound be a handy additional feature.
Dave K
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: Question about point/switch modifications.
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| (...) That's what's put me off so far. I don't have a very steady hand and a dremel goes at minimum of 10,000rpm. I'd be likely to shatter the disc, slice the parts in the wrong places or chop into my hand! At least the table saw you showed had a (...) (21 years ago, 8-Apr-04, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: Question about point/switch modifications.
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| (...) OK thanks - I wasn't looking closely enough. Do you have any more pictures from the procedure? Although I presume you did the same to re-attach the bits as you did on the new procedure. I gather you're cutting the branch off immediately after (...) (21 years ago, 8-Apr-04, to lugnet.trains)
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