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 | | Re: tougher lego gears
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| (...) It won't offer any support since the filling is not bonded to (or "integrated into") the gear body - they would just fly out when the gear cracks. (...) Which brings a question: Why use Lego in a rig with wood or aluminum? Is it a Lego MOC (...) (19 years ago, 23-Jun-05, to lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.technic)
| | | | | Re: tougher lego gears
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| (...) I don't think the plastic-glue bond would have to be stronger than plastic with itself. I'm just talking about filling up the hole so that the gear won't crack as easily at the thin points next to the holes. This is where the breaks are always (...) (19 years ago, 22-Jun-05, to lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.technic)
| | | | | Re: tougher lego gears
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| (...) If the material is failing, I doubt filling the holes will help (perhaps, *maybe*, with a very strong glue, but I still doubt it). The problem is getting anything to bond the plastic nearly as strongly as the plastic bonds to itself. I don't (...) (19 years ago, 22-Jun-05, to lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.technic)
| | | | | Re: tougher lego gears
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| (...) This time I heated it for 10 minutes and let it cool in tap water for a fair while. The gear lasted noticeably longer - almost to the end (it's operating a elastic wind-back mechanism). But then it snapped. The gears always crack at the (...) (19 years ago, 22-Jun-05, to lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.technic)
| | | | | Re: tougher lego gears
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| (...) Dope another one. This time cool it with tap water, not iced water. You may have cooled it too fast, if I understand that thread correctly. Keith (19 years ago, 21-Jun-05, to lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.technic)
| | | | | Re: tougher lego gears
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| (...) Bummer. My suggestion would be to "gang" more gears side-by-side. You could use metal gears, like meccano or something, but you'd always have a weak point at the plastic/metal interface. Or you could do all the mechanicals in metal, and just (...) (19 years ago, 21-Jun-05, to lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.technic)
| | | | | Re: tougher lego gears
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| (...) I "doped" the gear and it still broke. I think it might have lasted a bit longer though. I put it in boiling water for 5 minutes then in iced water for 5 minutes. Didn't use it until about 15 minutes later. Any other suggestions? Jack (19 years ago, 21-Jun-05, to lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.technic)
| | | | | Re: tougher lego gears
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| (...) Take a look at this: (URL) - David (19 years ago, 20-Jun-05, to lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.technic)
| | | | | tougher lego gears
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| Hi, I'm building a lego mechanism in which the gears experiences a high amount of force. I've split several 16-tooth gears, and I'm interested in replacing the standard lego gears with something tougher. Has anyone done this before, or does anyone (...) (19 years ago, 20-Jun-05, to lugnet.parts.custom, lugnet.parts.mod)
| | | | | Re: W I D E hull sections, anyone?
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| (...) I bought my COKO ships at TRU in the SF Bay Area. I've been collecting Pirates scince day one, and these showed up about a year or so after the BSB. There wern't alot of other LEGO ships avalible at the time, and the price was right. So I (...) (19 years ago, 17-Jun-05, to lugnet.pirates, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
| | | | | Re: W I D E hull sections, anyone?
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| (...) out of curiosity, where did you find your COKO ships? Some of the models look very interesting and would not mind getting my hand on one. I don't know if it is the same company or another asian company, but Oxford Korea also makes really neat (...) (19 years ago, 12-Jun-05, to lugnet.pirates, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
| | | | | Re: W I D E hull sections, anyone?
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| (...) Richie, First off, get yourself a razor saw, this will give you cleaner cuts that remove less material. I'd recomend cutting the sections down the middle , and not offset. Make you initial cut across the top. Then flip it over, anduse side (...) (19 years ago, 1-Jun-05, to lugnet.pirates, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
| | | | | W I D E hull sections, anyone?
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| Ahoy, It has long been discussed, and (URL) claimed> once – but no evidence has been provided. But I have done it! I’ve cut six centre sections, and a single bow section, as that is what’s needed for the rebuild of my (URL). No widened stern (...) (19 years ago, 1-Jun-05, to lugnet.pirates, lugnet.boats, lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
| | | | | Re: Cutting tracks?
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| (...) NO! Only my opinon, but the tool of choice is not a Dremel. If you do not already own a hand held rotary tool, I recommend a Black & Decker multi-speed. These are cheaper, more reliable, and most importantly they have a lower RPM and better (...) (19 years ago, 20-May-05, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
| | | | | Re: Cutting tracks?
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| (...) I thought LEGO "promised" that LEGO track would always be the old dark grey??? rob FUT - lugnet.color (19 years ago, 20-May-05, to lugnet.trains, lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.color)
| | | | | Re: Cutting tracks?
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| (...) I think that's the ATLAS Saw It's been around for probably 30 years and it's a good thing... works on metal (slowly) or plastic... (URL) 3 bucks USD or less. (19 years ago, 20-May-05, to lugnet.parts.mod)
| | | | | Re: Cutting tracks?
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| In lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, C. L. GunningCook wrote: <snip> (...) As other people mentioned--Dremel is the bestest thing for them! I use a Dremel and 400 grit sandpaper--not much else. If you want to shoot me an e-mail detailing what you're trying (...) (19 years ago, 20-May-05, to lugnet.parts.mod, lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto)
| | | | | Re: Cutting tracks?
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| (...) There's probably a better way for the LEGO track, but I do know that there is a small saw-thingy that you can get at model railroad/hobby stores for cutting model railroad track. They're really sharp and have really small fine teeth. I can't (...) (19 years ago, 20-May-05, to lugnet.parts.mod)
| | | | | Re: Cutting tracks?
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| (...) The tool of choice would have to be the (URL) and then a very sharp razor knife and a jewel saw. The metal rails on a track can be removed with out cutting, you can just pry them off. jt (19 years ago, 20-May-05, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
| | | | | Re: Modifying the 6272c01 Electric RC Race Buggy Battery Receiver Unit with Auxiliary Output
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| (...) I have since unsoldered the battery connections from the board, this allows the whole thing to be removed from the casing. Having has a look at the other side of the board I have decided to leave the coil as it and move the two switches to the (...) (19 years ago, 20-May-05, to lugnet.parts.mod, FTX)
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