Subject:
|
Re: Permanent Standard - A Medieval Town
|
Newsgroups:
|
lugnet.castle
|
Date:
|
Sun, 3 Nov 2002 02:31:14 GMT
|
Viewed:
|
625 times
|
| |
|
|
Comments. . .
On Sun, 3 Nov 2002, Ben Ellermann wrote:
> Design and quality – All models shall be of high quality and thought out
> design. Try to be historically accurate if possible (13th – 16th
> centuries). The town shall show the best castle buildings that our
> community can design. Models should be good enough to become a set made
> by LEGO. Several factors are involved. Playability – the set should
> open with hinges, a removable wall or roof, or separate with technic
> pins. Moveable features like pulleys, trap doors, secret vaults, etc
> are a plus. Buildings should be appropriately furnished – what is
> inside a set is as important as the exterior design.
There's a problem here, in that there are (at least) two standards for
what constitutes believable design. TLC has traditionally made many
concessions to playability and cost---for example, rooms and buildings
with only three walls, multilevel buildings with no way to move between
floors, and those abominable battlements that only come up to a minifig's
waist. Sets like the Blacksmith Shop are an exception from TLC, but for
many fans represent a normal (or even baseline) level of detail and
believability for MOCs, and that seems to be the level of detail and
completeness suggested here.
> Materials - Please use appropriate color schemes. Timber framed
> buildings should have black or brown posts and beams. Stucco (wattle
> and daub) colors shall be limited to white, yellow, and tan.
This makes sense, but there are a lot of red Tudor wall pieces floating
around. . .
> Direction of Streets - Streets shall be laid out in a north/south/east/west
> grid pattern.
A good idea, but not historically accurate. Allowing wandering roads in a
region where there is only one person in creative control might be good
(but such areas could also look jarringly inconsistent with everything
else). And of course the waterfront should not be rectangular (since it
has to conform itself to natural features---river, lake, or sea).
> Block shape - Each block shall be square or rectangular. Rectangular
> lots greatest dimension shall not be more than one and one half times
> its shortest dimension. Sizes may be 32 x 32 and 64 x 32
>
> Street Width - Main streets shall be a minimum of 16 studs wide.
> Normal streets shall be 8 studs wide. Alleys shall be 2 studs wide.
Two studs might make sense for interwall spacing where no one would go,
but a 'fig needs at least three studs to move in a true alley, ideally
four.
<skip>
> Lot Sizes – maximum building sizes – 8 x 16, 16 x 16, 16 x 24, 16 x 32 –
> roads shall not be included on lot sizes but a one stud offset from the
> street sides is recommended.
Also note that the proposed block sizes are convenient for buildings, but
may be inconvenient for putting them together. Most Lego baseplates are
multiples of 16 (sometimes 8) studs on each side. Tan 8x## baseplates are
rare (I think), and green 8x## not terribly common. I would not expect
that people could bring together a number of buildings on 16x16 baseplates
and have enough 8x## baseplates to just drop in roads. A better solution
might be to plan buildings to live on a 16x32 or 32x32 (or whatever)
baseplate, with at least four studs reserved on one side for (one half of
a) road. This raises the problems of corner shops, of course. . .
> Paving – All main roads and squares shall be paved. Light grey plates
> will be used. If a street is not paved it must be tan or brown
> (depending on the weather). Green grass is not allowed – weeds and
> small patches of grass are allowed.
Pure gray paving might look odd. I believe there was a nice paved effect
at the 2002 Brickfest(?) using the three grays commonly available in the
Mosaic kits. . .
> Walls shall be four studs wide by 28 studs tall, the top 4 studs being
> crenellations, and connect with technic pins.
Designing compatible, modular wall sections is a big discussion all by
itself! There are issues like color, batters, merlon and embrassure
widths, etc., etc., etc., many of which can vary from section to section
but must agree at the boundary. See also
http://www.mindspring.com/~ffilz/Lego/castle-structures.html#WALLS
and LUGNET discussions that I'm too lazy too find now.
--
TWS Garrison
http://www.math.purdue.edu/~tgarriso/
Remove capital letters in address for direct reply.
|
|
Message has 2 Replies:
 | | Re: Permanent Standard - A Medieval Town
|
| I don't post here a lot, but I read everything that gets posted in .castle. I've been following the discussion about (and am very interested in) a project that everyone can contribute too. I have already started planning some buildings to (...) (22 years ago, 3-Nov-02, to lugnet.castle)
| | | Re: Permanent Standard - A Medieval Town
|
| (...) As I envisioned it - these buildings would be like Daniel Siskund's sets - a larger scale than most Lego castle sets - so many details can be added. (...) I believe that some of this is historically accurate - depending on the town and time (...) (22 years ago, 3-Nov-02, to lugnet.castle)
|
Message is in Reply To:
| | Permanent Standard - A Medieval Town
|
| Warning!!! Extremely Long Post ;) I have begun working on a building standard imposed on new construction by local authorities in a late medieval town. Town layout and floor plan limitations still need to be made. Anyone who would like to help or (...) (22 years ago, 3-Nov-02, to lugnet.castle) !
|
15 Messages in This Thread:
 
 
 
- Entire Thread on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
This Message and its Replies on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
|
|
|
|
