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> I'm thinking of making some village signs.... the little picture ones that
> go above doors, or hang outside sops.... things like some shoes, for a
The first sign to redo, if you can get a good picture to work from, is the
famous, rare guarded inn sign. Make sure you make it as accurate as possible...
:)
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The first sign to redo, if you can get a good picture to work from, is the
> famous, rare guarded inn sign. Make sure you make it as accurate as possible...
> :)
I think the Guarded Inn sign would be an excellent start.
Keeping in mind, signs for shops..along with many shops themselves didn't
occur until the local artisans got together and formed guilds which happened
during the Medieval period starting around 1100AD (for those who like being
historically accurate).
Some of these have already been mentioned:
Alchemist
Apothecary
Bakery
Barrel/Bucket maker?
Blacksmith
Candlemaker
Carpenter
Charcoal Dealers
Clothing/Seamstress/Tailor
Cobbler
Glassworks
Horn Makers
Inn/s
Jewelry
Leather Works
Masonry
Pottery - no..not a privy ;)
Silversmith
Textile Shop
Various Pubs
Wheel maker (was this a task of a blacksmith?)
Winery
Any takers? Kevin?
-Kyle
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> Alchemist
> Apothecary
> Bakery
> Barrel/Bucket maker?
> Blacksmith
> Clothing/Seamstress/Tailor
> Cobbler
> Inn/s
> Silversmith
> Various Pubs
> Wheel maker (was this a task of a blacksmith?)
>
> Any takers? Kevin?
>
> -Kyle
I would love to see some of these. The questions of course is what paper
would I print them on ... Is there "sticker" paper out there? Any advice and
maybe a how-to guide from someone who has done it before would be very
appreciated.
-- Pawel
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> I would love to see some of these. The questions of course is what paper
> would I print them on ... Is there "sticker" paper out there? Any advice and
> maybe a how-to guide from someone who has done it before would be very
> appreciated.
-- Pawel
I think someone, Ed?, mentioned that you can buy 8.5" X 11" printer
"sticker" paper at Staples or OfficeMax or Office Depot for fairly cheap.
All I did for mine (Monty Python torsos) was create them in Illustrator,
edit them in Photoshop and save them at at least 300dpi (its good to make a
huge template with multiples as to not waste the stickerpaper). Then, load
the sticker paper into the paper tray of your color printer. Once its
printed, you'll notice that this sticker paper has a slight gloss to it
which matches the LEGO plastic quite well. Let it sit for about an hour to
avoide smudging, then take an X-acto knife and cut out the torsos. You'll
most likely need the X-acto knife again to peel the backing off the paper
and apply it to the Minifig of your choice.
The only peeve I encountered was that the edges of the sticker remain
white...which is annoying when applied to a different colored torso. To
avoid this I usually take a non-bleed marker and touch up the edges of the
sticker.
Precision is a must!
When done properly, they turn out exquisite.
http://web.newave.net/~kpeterson/trizeta/monty.html
for reference.
-Kyle
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> All I did for mine (Monty Python torsos) was create them in Illustrator,
> edit them in Photoshop and save them at at least 300dpi (its good to make a
> huge template with multiples as to not waste the stickerpaper).
You rock! What material did you use for the lower half of those surcoats?
Is that just paper, or something thicker?
Peter
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Pawel Nazarewicz wrote:
>
> > Alchemist
> > Apothecary
> > Bakery
> > Barrel/Bucket maker?
> > Blacksmith
> > Clothing/Seamstress/Tailor
> > Cobbler
> > Inn/s
> > Silversmith
> > Various Pubs
> > Wheel maker (was this a task of a blacksmith?)
> >
> > Any takers? Kevin?
> >
> > -Kyle
>
> I would love to see some of these. The questions of course is what paper
> would I print them on ... Is there "sticker" paper out there? Any advice and
> maybe a how-to guide from someone who has done it before would be very
> appreciated.
>
> -- Pawel
One thing I learned, at least with the sticker paper I have (it's very
flat.. like normal paper) In order to get a little gloss on the paper,
and keep the inkjet ink from running if it gets soaked for some reason..
I put some packing tape over it. You have to be very careful or you'll
get wrinkles, though I was able to cover all my walls with no problems!
I'd love to see some of the signs above also! made for brick or for 2
clip flags. Also, if anyone is willing, I'd love to get some larger
stickers, I really don't mind if they cover a few bricks, I'd probably
leave them together anyway.. Though the stones usually seen around
windows or larger gates ie.
http://www.brickshelf.com/scans/catalogs/1993/b93usc/b93usc-02.html
I've always wished Lego would make some parts like this to make it
easier to build. Maybe someday :)
Tamy
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> You rock! What material did you use for the lower half of those surcoats?
> Is that just paper, or something thicker?
> Peter
Thanks!
Basically its a heavy-grade matte-finish printer paper. After long attempts
to find the same material that TLG makes their cloaks and sails out of, I
gave up.
To this day I think its some sort of starched light-weight canvas. I found
similar material....but trying to print color on it was useless. Paper in
itself actually looks fine. You really can't even tell the difference.
- Kyle
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In lugnet.castle, Jonathan Wilson writes:
> > I'm thinking of making some village signs.... the little picture ones that
> > go above doors, or hang outside sops.... things like some shoes, for a
>
> The first sign to redo, if you can get a good picture to work from, is the
> famous, rare guarded inn sign. Make sure you make it as accurate as possible...
> :)
Has anyone got one of the inn signs scanned in??? email it to me so I can
re-draw it, as I don't have one....
Kev... : )
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In lugnet.castle, Jonathan Wilson writes:
> The first sign to redo, if you can get a good picture to work from, is the
> famous, rare guarded inn sign. Make sure you make it as accurate as >possible...
If someone needs a great scan of the GI sign, I have one at home that I can
email to them. It'd be great to have a guarded inn sign redone in Adobe
Illustrator, but the one I have will actually print out pretty nicely already.
The one thing extra that I might have preferred from the torsos created by
Kevin Hall would have been to have a printer friendly pdf file of them, as I
made for my tudor walls. To see those pdfs, go to:
http://members.aol.com/blueofnoon/lego/gi/givariant.html
-- Richard
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In lugnet.castle, Richard Marchetti writes:
> If someone needs a great scan of the GI sign, I have one at home that I can
> email to them. It'd be great to have a guarded inn sign redone in Adobe
> Illustrator, but the one I have will actually print out pretty nicely already.
Can you email it to me then....
Kev.. : )
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And for those of us who don't have access to a color laser printer, it looks
like
nk Jet Labels for Color Printing
Full Sheet, 8-1/2" x 11", White, Permanent, 1 label per sheet
8255 20 Sheets per Package $15.99
is the choice.
Peter
> > I think someone, Ed?, mentioned that you can buy 8.5" X 11" printer
> > "sticker" paper at Staples or OfficeMax or Office Depot for fairly cheap.
>
> Yep, see the comments in the README file here:
>
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=3156
>
> --
> -Bones-
> = http://www.necrobones.com/ = NecroBones Enterprises
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> And for those of us who don't have access to a color laser printer, it • looks
> like
>
> nk Jet Labels for Color Printing
> Full Sheet, 8-1/2" x 11", White, Permanent, 1 label per sheet
> 8255 20 Sheets per Package $15.99
>
> is the choice.
Actually, mine is just an inkjet too, but the "laser" version
of the sticky sheets works fine for me.
--
-Bones-
= http://www.necrobones.com/ = NecroBones Enterprises
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Using a good quality inkjet printer on the glossy sticker paper designed for inkjet
ink produces excellent quality, good enough to rival laserjet print. But if you must
have color laserjet output for permanent color fastness, here's a trick I picked up
from making my own (water-applied) decals with laser-jet only decal paper. Bring a
full-size printout of your decal/sticker sheet to Kinko's or an office supplies print
center (Staples and OfficeMax, for example). Ask them if you can use their color
laser copier with your own paper (remember to ask the clerk if their machine can
handle a heavier stock without jamming--a manual feed that has a straighter paper
path is preferred). Then just copy your original onto your sticker/decal stock.
Will probably only work with full-sheet sticker paper.
One other thing, the only thing is that all of the sticker stock I've come across is
on the thick and heavy-weight side (adds a lot to that white-edge effect already
mentioned), so paper glued onto an unwanted torso isn't a bad alternative, as is
decal paper.
"Peter F. Guenther" <pguenthe@zdnetonebox.com> wrote in message
news:G8F27n.504@lugnet.com...
> And for those of us who don't have access to a color laser printer, it looks
> like
>
> nk Jet Labels for Color Printing
> Full Sheet, 8-1/2" x 11", White, Permanent, 1 label per sheet
> 8255 20 Sheets per Package $15.99
>
> is the choice.
>
> Peter
>
>
> > > I think someone, Ed?, mentioned that you can buy 8.5" X 11" printer
> > > "sticker" paper at Staples or OfficeMax or Office Depot for fairly cheap.
> >
> > Yep, see the comments in the README file here:
> >
> > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=3156
> >
> > --
> > -Bones-
> > = http://www.necrobones.com/ = NecroBones Enterprises
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> But if you must
> have color laserjet output for permanent color fastness,
Another thought: Can you use clear nail polish on top of an inkjet sticker
for permanence and the appropriate gloss?
Peter
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> Another thought: Can you use clear nail polish on top of an inkjet sticker
> for permanence and the appropriate gloss?
Here's another thought- you could try spray-on clear-coat...
Glossy laquer spray. It's usually sold right next to model paints
in hobby shops. Has anyone tried this? I use it to cover over
my paint jobs (check out my dragons and mage hats on my
site: http://www.necrobones.com/legos/medieval/ ), but not
over stickers or paper. Admittedly, the laser-sticker-paper
I use with my inkjet results in a non-glossy look. I don't mind
that so much for shields, but it might look out of place on
minifig torsos.
--
-Bones-
= http://www.necrobones.com/ = NecroBones Enterprises
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