Subject:
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Re: A castle fan's Train plan
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Wed, 15 Mar 2006 19:22:18 GMT
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Viewed:
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2494 times
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In lugnet.trains, Mathew Clayson wrote:
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In lugnet.trains, Anthony Sava wrote:
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I want this train to be fully layout compatible, and by that I mean I want
it to be a fully functioning LEGO train capable of running on normal track
layouts.
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The engine:
The Polar Express steam locomotive, at least in the movie (I can’t say for
sure about the book) is based entirely off of one engine: the Pere Marquette
Berkshire type 2-8-4 locomotive #1225.
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If you plan to put connecting rods on the drivers, you’ll want to get 4 large
wheels with flanges and 4 that are blind, no flange. The blind drivers will
allow you to run through curves, and place the wheels closer to each other If
you want the side rods connected to a piston the drive wheels will need to be
fixed to the body, not swivel. I’d recomend putting a pair of blind drivers
toward the front, then flanged, then blind, then a final pair of flanged. The
real trick is attaching the leading wheels. These will need to attach to a
pivot point. The pivot point needs to be as far back as possible, preferably
near the axle of the front flanged wheels. The front wheels also need to
avoid hitting the pistons. The trailing 4 wheels are easier, as they form a
truck, this can almost float at the back of the engine.
Build your wheel arrangment first, including drive rods and pistons. Test
this out along with a tender mock up.
I hope this helped. I’ve built only two engines with the BBB wheels, the
first was a major learning experience. It was also one of the first train
mocs I tried.
Mat
Mat
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Thanks for the pointers!
I had already planned on purchasing the blind drivers, but I was planning on
having my drive wheel arrangement with a flanged driver first. Why do you
suggest having a blind wheel first? Do the pistons hide the ‘float’?
I know the leading wheels need to be on one pivot at the end of a connecting
arm, but what about the rear wheels? Should they have a single pivot at the end
of a connecting arm, or a double pivot at both ends of the arm (where it
attaches to the engine and where it attaches to the trailing wheels)?
What would you recommend on connecting the tender to the engine? Using a pair
of LEGO’s buffers and magnets, just a pair of magnets by themselves, or a
drawbar?
--Anthony
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Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: A castle fan's Train plan
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| (...) Your welcome, I haven't actually built a steem engine this large, but I've been collecting ideas. (...) This is a long engine and unless you are articulating the boiler you'll want to balance the swing out at each end of the engine. The simple (...) (19 years ago, 15-Mar-06, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: A castle fan's Train plan
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| (...) If you plan to put connecting rods on the drivers, you'll want to get 4 large wheels with flanges and 4 that are blind, no flange. The blind drivers will allow you to run through curves, and place the wheels closer to each other If you want (...) (19 years ago, 15-Mar-06, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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