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It has been a really long time since I've posted in .trains seeking help! (maybe never, I forget) :) So, anyway, here's the sitch. I have a diesel loco I am building. As many of you know, I usually don't use baseplates (and since this one needs (...) (20 years ago, 20-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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Since you aren't using a train base plate, I assume you are using a 2x4 electric plate attached to the motor contacts and then attaching the 2x2 wire concetor to the under side of the 2x4 electric plate ? SteveB (...) (20 years ago, 20-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) I don't quite understand, either. Why can't you simply splice LEGO wire with thin wire, or back to itself? JOHN (20 years ago, 20-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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"Larry Pieniazek" <larry.(mylastname)@...e.DOT.com> wrote in message news:IAn1Ew.21DE@lugnet.com... (...) Dang, and I wasn't going to make a post.... Oh well, It looks like there could be a need for me to get my Dremel out and try my hand at (...) (20 years ago, 20-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) LOL (...) None of my locos use baseplates. I've found the best way is to have a 2x2 hole right next to the technic plate you attach the motor to, and attach the connector to the motor with the wires pointing towards the attachment pin. The (...) (20 years ago, 20-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Oh almost forgot an LDR file, theres's one linked on this page: (URL) (20 years ago, 20-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Oh crap, that won't work. There's simply no way to get a 2x2 electric connector through a technic hole without quantum physics. I guess I could attach a 2x4 technic plate and leave it on the train pin. Rob (20 years ago, 20-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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Hello Larry, here is another weird idea that might help or not ... If, wherever you are currently routing the cable, you give it one whole turn, wouldn't that make sure there is at least one place along the cable length that allows the cable to (...) (20 years ago, 20-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Nope. Just the 2x2 wire connector straight onto the motor. Of course there is a tile on top of the wire connector and the layered plate floor/frame has a cutout, I'm pretty sure that's not the source of the resistance, I tested that with 2 (...) (20 years ago, 21-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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The conductor plate gets you away from having to build a recessed area for the 2x2x2p wire plate. How did you do that anyway? I hit this issue and poked around and finally consulted to oricle, James Mathis, HE TOLD ME TO DO IT THIS WAY! ;) SteveB (...) (20 years ago, 21-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Left some plates out... (am I missing something with your question????) in other words to "build a recessed area" you "don't build part of the floor"! (...) He's a CAD jockey though. 4 out of 5 of his creations never leave elecron form... (20 years ago, 21-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Hi Lar, I usually attach the 2x2 wire plate to the motor, bend the wire down towards the track and then bend the wire back up towards the cab. The wire then goes through a 1x2 hole in the floor and to the motor and lights in the cab. That loop (...) (20 years ago, 21-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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(...) Rob You could do what I did in my track pickup experiments, cut the wire, and use a c100x2 connector to re-attach them later. The C100 sockets just fit through a technic pin. (2 URLs) The picture shows a pair if sockets without the plastic (...) (20 years ago, 21-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) In my wider trains I usually include a 1x4 hole in the cab floor and have the wire connecting to the motor with the connector at the same end of the motor as the coupling. The 1x4 slot gives enough room for the bogies of a loco of bogie (...) (20 years ago, 21-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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G'Day This is the method i most commonly use, as the wire comes of the motor block and enters the 'fuel tanks' i put a horizontal loop in the wire before in goes up into the body of the loco, seems to give it enough play that the motor swings (...) (20 years ago, 23-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains)
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SNIPPIFIED Forgive me if I'm missing something, but why attach your lighting to the motor in the first place? I've NEVER done that so far. I hate it when the light dims everytime you power down- It's unprototypical and silly. Even with my (URL) (...) (20 years ago, 25-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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(...) As with all my projects, these will be doing a lot of show running if all goes according to plan. So batteries really aren't practical, and practicality is more important that prototypicalness. If the club ever goes DCC though, that addresses (...) (20 years ago, 25-Jan-05, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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