Subject:
|
Re: Steam engine complex wheelbases (was: BBB wheels sales)
|
Newsgroups:
|
lugnet.trains
|
Date:
|
Thu, 29 Jul 2004 23:08:07 GMT
|
Viewed:
|
1751 times
|
| |
|
|
These pictures should give you some idea of how it works.
First, here’s the whole wheelbase from the side:
As you can see, it’s big. It takes up 90° of curve on its own. This includes
the tender though. The main thing to notice in this picture is how close the
motor is to the front wheels, with the cylinders riding over the top. Note also
the rear truck is locked to the front of the tender. I’ll pull them apart for
the next photo.
Now here’s a higher view, with two of the wheels removed:
Perhaps this thumbnail is better for seeing the lateral hinge made of 4 technic
steering plates (two at the top, two at the bottom). The centre wheel pegs into
a technic twin-hole brick. What you can barely see, becuase it’s all black, are
two 1x1 round plates on the top of this brick, which rest against the flex
hoses. These keep the wheels sprung outward.
From this view, you can also see how the cylinders are mounted. That cylinder
package resting on top of the motor has two axles right through it, and on the
rear end are two technic cross axle connectors, pressed onto the studs of the
chassis. The red technic pin connectors are supported at the front by the studs
of technic half-pins, which poke through the two 1x4 steering plates you can see
across the very front. At the rear of the cylinders, a 1x6 technic thin liftarm
supports two 1x3 liftarms. These effectively extend the tube made by those red
pin connectors. They’re double-pinned to the 1x6 thin liftarm, to keep them up.
There are bricks pushed into them too, which also help support the 1x4 plates at
the front.
As I said, the trick to smooth running is to let those pin connectors be a
little loose.
Notice here I’ve pulled the rear bogie and tender apart. You can just see the
magnet sticking out of the rear bogie, and the aligning pins (OK, one is grey on
grey) on the front of the tender.
The final trick is how the front motor is attached, but I’m not about to
dismantle it again. Here’s a quick render though:
To fit a pin very close to the rear of the motor, I put two centre-stud plates
on the bottom clips. On those I fitted a technic 1x5 plate, then pushed an axle
pin into the axle hole in the middle of that. A 2x3 plate with hole in the end
holds the top of the pin in place, and the studs are still below the level of
the motor body.
As for the other end of the link, that’s just held captive by a few plates.
There’s no real mounting for the axle. It just rattles around inside a cavity
in the front of the chassis.
Jason Railton
|
|
Message has 1 Reply:
 | | Re: Steam engine complex wheelbases (was: BBB wheels sales)
|
| (...) Hello I really like your steamtrain wheelbase design ! Do you have any more pictures ? It give me some ideas on how to build a Steam train using 8 BBB drive wheels. Using both a combination of my design and your design. A 4 8 4 steam train or (...) (20 years ago, 3-Aug-04, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
|
Message is in Reply To:
13 Messages in This Thread:
 
 
- Entire Thread on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
This Message and its Replies on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
|
|
|
|
