Subject:
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Re: Steam engine complex wheelbases (was: BBB wheels sales)
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Tue, 3 Aug 2004 10:36:50 GMT
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Viewed:
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1743 times
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In lugnet.trains, Jason J. Railton wrote:
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These pictures should give you some idea of how it works.
First, here’s the whole wheelbase from the side:
As you can see, it’s big. It takes up 90° of curve on its own. This
includes the tender though. The main thing to notice in this picture is how
close the motor is to the front wheels, with the cylinders riding over the
top. Note also the rear truck is locked to the front of the tender. I’ll
pull them apart for the next photo.
Now here’s a higher view, with two of the wheels removed:
Perhaps this thumbnail is better for seeing the lateral hinge made of 4
technic steering plates (two at the top, two at the bottom). The centre
wheel pegs into a technic twin-hole brick. What you can barely see, becuase
it’s all black, are two 1x1 round plates on the top of this brick, which rest
against the flex hoses. These keep the wheels sprung outward.
From this view, you can also see how the cylinders are mounted. That
cylinder package resting on top of the motor has two axles right through it,
and on the rear end are two technic cross axle connectors, pressed onto the
studs of the chassis. The red technic pin connectors are supported at the
front by the studs of technic half-pins, which poke through the two 1x4
steering plates you can see across the very front. At the rear of the
cylinders, a 1x6 technic thin liftarm supports two 1x3 liftarms. These
effectively extend the tube made by those red pin connectors. They’re
double-pinned to the 1x6 thin liftarm, to keep them up. There are bricks
pushed into them too, which also help support the 1x4 plates at the front.
As I said, the trick to smooth running is to let those pin connectors be a
little loose.
Notice here I’ve pulled the rear bogie and tender apart. You can just see
the magnet sticking out of the rear bogie, and the aligning pins (OK, one is
grey on grey) on the front of the tender.
The final trick is how the front motor is attached, but I’m not about to
dismantle it again. Here’s a quick render though:
To fit a pin very close to the rear of the motor, I put two centre-stud
plates on the bottom clips. On those I fitted a technic 1x5 plate, then
pushed an axle pin into the axle hole in the middle of that. A 2x3 plate
with hole in the end holds the top of the pin in place, and the studs are
still below the level of the motor body.
As for the other end of the link, that’s just held captive by a few plates.
There’s no real mounting for the axle. It just rattles around inside a
cavity in the front of the chassis.
Jason Railton
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Hello
I really like your steamtrain wheelbase design !
Do you have any more pictures ?
It give me some ideas on how to build a Steam train using 8 BBB drive wheels.
Using both a combination of my design and your design. A 4 8 4 steam train or
something.With no blind drivers.
Thanks, Teunis. M>ltc
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Message has 1 Reply:
Message is in Reply To:
 | | Re: Steam engine complex wheelbases (was: BBB wheels sales)
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| These pictures should give you some idea of how it works. First, here's the whole wheelbase from the side: (URL) As you can see, it's big. It takes up 90° of curve on its own. This includes the tender though. The main thing to notice in this picture (...) (20 years ago, 29-Jul-04, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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