 | | 12v motor in 9v trains - how? —Mike Chapman
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| | | Hi, I wondered how, or even if, people have put 12v motors into 9v trains. The motors themselves are almost identical in build but the 9v motors have those side pieces and the wheels are slightly bigger - very noticeable when you put a 12v plain (...) (21 years ago, 31-Mar-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Re: 12v motor in 9v trains - how? —Jan-Albert van Ree
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| | | | (...) Wouldn't converting the 9V motor as Ben Beneke described it have been easier? (URL) has all the details and seems a lot easier and safer. Good luck! (21 years ago, 31-Mar-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: 12v motor in 9v trains - how? —Reinhard "Ben" Beneke
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| | | | | (...) Hi all! Before anybody trys to convert his 9V train motors, I have to jump in and warn that these 9V motors are really to weak to "pull a fish from a plate" (as we say here). If one exchanges the rubber bands of the wheels against the rubber (...) (21 years ago, 1-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | questions about swapping rubber bands —Cary Clark
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| | | | | | In lugnet.trains, Reinhard "Ben" Beneke writes: ... (...) Last night I finally got around to filing down a few of my many defective wheel sets and successfully got a single Santa Fe engine (for the first time) to pull five stock Santa Fe cars around (...) (21 years ago, 2-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | | Re: questions about swapping rubber bands —Reinhard "Ben" Beneke
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| | | | | | | (...) Hi Cary, that sounds not to good... :-( (...) I always swapped all 4 rubber bands (at maybe 33% of all my motors - especially those that have not too much ballast but shall pull longer trains). (...) Only on 9V nowadays. In the past a few (...) (21 years ago, 2-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | | Re: questions about swapping rubber bands —Ludo Soete
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| | | | | | (...) Hi Cary, I remember that i got also once a problem with a 9V motor (from a new Metroliner set). I could replace him for a new one after contacting LEGO abouth it. The train could run for abouth 10 rounds and then stopped, but the light in the (...) (21 years ago, 7-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: 12v motor in 9v trains - how? —Mike Chapman
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| | | | Apart from the concern of running the motor built for 9v at 12v Ben's method requires breaking open the casing, building the 4 contact bushes and fitting them and connecting them internally. He also says "putting things together might be a bit (...) (21 years ago, 2-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: 12v motor in 9v trains - how? —Reinhard "Ben" Beneke
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| | | | (...) Hi Mike, it took maybe 3 hours to convert the first motor. Then I did 2 at a time and needed less than 2 hours to convert 2 motors. An that included all works: making the connecting bushes, opening the housing, drill the needed holes etc. That (...) (21 years ago, 2-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: 12v motor in 9v trains - how? —Peter Naulls
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| | | | (...) Although the 9v -> 12v conversion is very nice, as you said in another post, 9v is really the way to go. In fact, I don't have any 12V track, but I am planning on getting a 7745, or possibly some other 12V trains. Of course, you can simply (...) (21 years ago, 3-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: 12v motor in 9v trains - how? —Rick Clark
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| | | | (...) They work pretty well. I run my 12v "Grasshopper" Atlantic on 9v layouts. I have to keep it at a kind of high speed, or the motor jerks and sticks (but that may just be mine). I use the quick-and-dirty method to make it go. It's powered from (...) (21 years ago, 4-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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