Subject:
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questions about swapping rubber bands
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Wed, 2 Apr 2003 14:37:41 GMT
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Viewed:
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1258 times
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In lugnet.trains, Reinhard "Ben" Beneke writes:
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> If [on a 9V motor] one exchanges the rubber bands of the wheels
> against the rubber bands from Lego-Minifig-bicycles, it is somewhat
> stronger on 12V track, but still it is basically running on the
> outer rims of the wheels and tends to slip.
Last night I finally got around to filing down a few of my many defective
wheel sets and successfully got a single Santa Fe engine (for the first
time) to pull five stock Santa Fe cars around a loop on a low regulator
speed setting with single motor.
Odd thing was, after looping for a while, the motor stopped working at any
speed. The light on the train still responded to the regulator, so the
problem is definitely in the motor, not the regulator.
I switched motors and that worked better, except the replacement motor
tended to bind and jerk. Then I remembered having swapped the rubber bands
as Ben describes above. Here are my questions for Ben or anyone else:
- Do you swap all four rubber bands, or only two? Which two?
- Do you run your bicycle-tire equipped motors on 9V track as well as 12V?
- Have you noticed any binding? Do you lubricate or modify the bands in anyway?
One more thing: when swapping rubber bands around, I noticed that the fried
motor was missing one rubber band altogether. Has anyone seen motor damage
resulting from missing bands?
Cary
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Message has 2 Replies:
 | | Re: questions about swapping rubber bands
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| (...) Hi Cary, that sounds not to good... :-( (...) I always swapped all 4 rubber bands (at maybe 33% of all my motors - especially those that have not too much ballast but shall pull longer trains). (...) Only on 9V nowadays. In the past a few (...) (22 years ago, 2-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
| | | Re: questions about swapping rubber bands
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| (...) Hi Cary, I remember that i got also once a problem with a 9V motor (from a new Metroliner set). I could replace him for a new one after contacting LEGO abouth it. The train could run for abouth 10 rounds and then stopped, but the light in the (...) (22 years ago, 7-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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Message is in Reply To:
| | Re: 12v motor in 9v trains - how?
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| (...) Hi all! Before anybody trys to convert his 9V train motors, I have to jump in and warn that these 9V motors are really to weak to "pull a fish from a plate" (as we say here). If one exchanges the rubber bands of the wheels against the rubber (...) (22 years ago, 1-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)
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