To LUGNET HomepageTo LUGNET News HomepageTo LUGNET Guide Homepage
 Help on Searching
 
Post new message to lugnet.trainsOpen lugnet.trains in your NNTP NewsreaderTo LUGNET News Traffic PageSign In (Members)
 Trains / 19687
19686  |  19688
Subject: 
Re: 12v motor in 9v trains - how?
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains
Date: 
Tue, 1 Apr 2003 21:26:50 GMT
Viewed: 
1038 times
  
In lugnet.trains, Jan-Albert van Ree writes:
Mike Chapman wrote:
Hi,

I wondered how, or even if, people have put 12v motors into 9v trains. The
motors themselves are almost identical in build but the 9v motors have those
side pieces and the wheels are slightly bigger - very noticeable when you
put a 12v plain motor in place of a 9v one especially on the larger engines
with another set of wheels (e.g. Santa Fe). It just doesn't look right.

Wouldn't converting the 9V motor as Ben Beneke described it have been
easier? http://www.fgltc.org/bwoabs/9v_12v/9v_12v.phtml#convert has all the
details and seems a lot easier and safer.

Good luck!

Hi all!

Before anybody trys to convert his 9V train motors, I have to jump in and warn
that these 9V motors are really to weak to "pull a fish from a plate" (as we
say here).
If one exchanges the rubber bands of the wheels against the rubber bands from
Lego-Minifig-bicycles, it is somewhat stronger on 12V track, but still it is
basically running on the outer rims of the wheels and tends to slip.

For the converted 12V 7865-motor I fear it suffers even the worse under these
slippage effects. Without rubber these wheels will probably never be able to
pull a train like a Santa Fe engine with 2 (or more waggons) through a point
combination.

With such a converted motor one may pull 2 waggons on a oval track, but
combinations of curves and points (or use of 12V waggons) make things very
unreliable in operation - the train may stop due to 'overload' then...

I was not too happy with any of mine experiences: it works for very short
trains and some extra weight over the motor helps as well, but after I
converted 5 motors I stopped and decided to leave the 12V train system for
ever.

The 7750 and 7740 are now shelf models only and all I have left is a small mini
layout in 12V for reference use of remote controlled stuff and for picture
taking purposes.

Maybe there are early Lugnet postings of mine in which I tell about my love to
12V because of all the nice remote control equipment etc, but in the meantime I
am a convinced fan of the 9V system. It offers 100% play value and 100%
operational reliability. And at our shows we need only some 10 minutes to put
the layout together and bring the first trains on their way. In 12V this has
been a process of hours instead....

Leg Godt!

Ben



Message has 1 Reply:
  questions about swapping rubber bands
 
In lugnet.trains, Reinhard "Ben" Beneke writes: ... (...) Last night I finally got around to filing down a few of my many defective wheel sets and successfully got a single Santa Fe engine (for the first time) to pull five stock Santa Fe cars around (...) (22 years ago, 2-Apr-03, to lugnet.trains)

Message is in Reply To:
  Re: 12v motor in 9v trains - how?
 
(...) Wouldn't converting the 9V motor as Ben Beneke described it have been easier? (URL) has all the details and seems a lot easier and safer. Good luck! (22 years ago, 31-Mar-03, to lugnet.trains)

10 Messages in This Thread:



Entire Thread on One Page:
Nested:  All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:  All | Brief | Compact

This Message and its Replies on One Page:
Nested:  All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:  All | Brief | Compact
    

Custom Search

©2005 LUGNET. All rights reserved. - hosted by steinbruch.info GbR