Subject:
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Re: 9v vs 12v
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.trains
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Date:
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Tue, 24 Jul 2001 17:02:37 GMT
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Viewed:
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2923 times
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Frank Buiting wrote:
>
> In lugnet.trains, Frank Filz writes:
> > > > Some disadvantages of 12V:
> > > >
> > > > - The turnouts don't switch electical power which means you can't put a
> > > > train in a siding and then isolate it from the main loop (so those
> > > > signal tracks are rather necessary).
> > >
> > > Not a big deal if I build a larger layout for myself, but for just throwing
> > > together some track for my kids to play with trains it might be a pain.
> >
> > Even on a big layout it's a pain. Since all sidings are powered all the
> > time with 12V, you can't have an isolated siding without pulling tricks.
> > Of course you can have an isolated siding without modifying parts if you
> > create one stud gaps in the rails. The Technic direction control switch
> > can be used then to selectively supply power.
>
> I personally rather have the power sidings and use signals to control the
> movement of the trains. Layouts shown in the 7777 train book are generally
> impossible to recreate in a 9V layout because the sidings need power in
> order to run more trains.
> pages:
> http://www.brickshelf.com/scans/7000/7777/7777-48.html
> http://www.brickshelf.com/scans/7000/7777/7777-49.html
Of course you can make any siding powered in 9V with standard components
(you may only need an extra track power connector).
Of course given an unlimited budget, I could create a much more
enjoyable layout with 12V and be pure since the signal track is very
flexible.
Ultimately though I think the way to go is to be slightly impure and
introduce DCC into the equation. I'm still tempted to go 12V though to
get the remote points.
> > I've also considered ways to use the 12V accessories on a 9V system. The
> > remote crossing gate of course works just fine. The signal set could
> > also be used, you just need to skip the 12V isolation rails provided,
> > and provide your own gap (either by cutting 9V track, or by inserting a
> > 1 stud gap). The remote points unfortunately are almost totally useless
> > (but you can still buy them brand new at the LEGO outlet stores...)
>
> To use the 12V signal, take a look at:
> http://members.chello.nl/~f.buiting/lego/trains/signal.html
I'll probably be trying that out. I'm acquiring the controls and lights
from a pair of signal tracks. Unfortunately without the conductor rails,
but it's cheaper than trying to buy a signal track through eBay (where
they seem to go for from $45-60).
> Henry, other reasons to buy 12V stuff even if you're plan to operate a 9V
> layout:
> * 12V trains are very nice models and have good selection of parts.
Absolutely. I love my 7735 (so much that I'm getting a 2nd) and the 7740
themed cars I've made. I'll probably make some kind of engine to go with
them. I'm hoping at some point to get some more red/yellow doors to make
more cars (maybe I'll make the engine totally yellow with the 4 plain
yellow doors from the 2 7735s and use the 4 red/yellow doors to make
another car).
> -Frank
The other Frank.
-----------------------------
Work: mailto:ffilz@us.ibm.com (business only please)
Home: mailto:ffilz@mindspring.com
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Message is in Reply To:
 | | Re: 9v vs 12v
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| (...) I personally rather have the power sidings and use signals to control the movement of the trains. Layouts shown in the 7777 train book are generally impossible to recreate in a 9V layout because the sidings need power in order to run more (...) (25 years ago, 24-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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