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Subject: 
Re: 9v vs 12v
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.trains
Date: 
Tue, 24 Jul 2001 14:06:40 GMT
Viewed: 
868 times
  
Henry Durand wrote:

- If you get a good price on it, you can swipe a train motor from one of
the many extra train sets you'll end up buying and use the 12V set on 9V
track.

OK, so if I understand this correctly, the track for 9V and 12V is actually the
same gauge, the difference is purely electrical?

See this post from yesterday on train compatibility for more
information:

http://news.lugnet.com/trains/?n=12518

- The 12V system has electrical accessories which 9V doesn't have:
- remote control points
- remote control crossing gates
- remote control signal track (which stops a train)
- remote control uncoupler (said to not work very well)

These sound like pretty nice features to have. Do either 9V or 12V have any
type of Command Control type equipment, or are trains run on the block system?

No command control, though a few folks have adapted DCC for 9V use (it
would work equally well for 12V I think).

Some disadvantages of 12V:

- The turnouts don't switch electical power which means you can't put a
train in a siding and then isolate it from the main loop (so those
signal tracks are rather necessary).

Not a big deal if I build a larger layout for myself, but for just throwing
together some track for my kids to play with trains it might be a pain.

Even on a big layout it's a pain. Since all sidings are powered all the
time with 12V, you can't have an isolated siding without pulling tricks.
Of course you can have an isolated siding without modifying parts if you
create one stud gaps in the rails. The Technic direction control switch
can be used then to selectively supply power.

- Assembling track is somewhat of a bear, dissasembly is even worse with
the newer grey 12V track due to the special tie plates.

Same comment as above.

- 12V regulators are only available with non-US (mostly European) plugs
and require a 220V outlet.

This is annoying.

But solveable, step up transformers are available. I'm actually going to
try using a 9V regulator, though I do have a 12V regulator in hand, plus
another one which just needs to be shipped across the pond.

- Electrical pickup on 12V track is not as good. Pickup is from two
sprung metal studs which contact the center conductor rail. Dirt and
oxidation is more of a problem.

- 12V motors use rubber treads on the wheels, since these are no longer
available from TLC, as they wear out, a non-LEGO replacement will need
to be found.

Well, I am certainly leaning towards 9V due to several factors: cost,
availabilty and general ease of operation among them. Thanks to all for your
responses. (I've gots lots to learn!)

9V probably is the way to start, just don't ignore those 12V sets on
eBay... (well, perhaps you should - then I can buy them...)

I've also considered ways to use the 12V accessories on a 9V system. The
remote crossing gate of course works just fine. The signal set could
also be used, you just need to skip the 12V isolation rails provided,
and provide your own gap (either by cutting 9V track, or by inserting a
1 stud gap). The remote points unfortunately are almost totally useless
(but you can still buy them brand new at the LEGO outlet stores...)

--
Frank Filz

-----------------------------
Work: mailto:ffilz@us.ibm.com (business only please)
Home: mailto:ffilz@mindspring.com



Message has 1 Reply:
  Re: 9v vs 12v
 
(...) I personally rather have the power sidings and use signals to control the movement of the trains. Layouts shown in the 7777 train book are generally impossible to recreate in a 9V layout because the sidings need power in order to run more (...) (23 years ago, 24-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)

Message is in Reply To:
  Re: 9v vs 12v
 
(...) OK, so if I understand this correctly, the track for 9V and 12V is actually the same gauge, the difference is purely electrical? (...) These sound like pretty nice features to have. Do either 9V or 12V have any type of Command Control type (...) (23 years ago, 24-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)

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