 | | Un-powered replacement for train motor —Ross Crawford
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| | | OK. This has probably been done before, but here it is anyway. (URL) (23 years ago, 2-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Re: Un-powered replacement for train motor —Reinhard "Ben" Beneke
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| | | | | (...) In my eyes the half stud offset in length direction is less worse than the one plte offest in height. But you can build a nearly 100% replacement if you do not use the bogie plate, but tiles and for e.g. this part: (URL) hole of this plate is (...) (23 years ago, 2-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | Re: Un-powered replacement for train motor —Jason J. Railton
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| | | | | | (...) I agree. A bogus motor that's one plate too high is all very well for a four-wheeled engine, but not for a bogey. (...) Interesting. Does that take a standard technic pin? I always thought the hole was smaller. (...) try and MLCAD it this (...) (23 years ago, 2-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Re: Un-powered replacement for train motor —Harvey Henkelman
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| | | | | (...) Looks good, but I find the truck arrangement used in set 4564 to be pretty good, if you fill in the spaces between the wheels with 1x4 and 2x4 bricks. I use this arrangement on my v188 double-diesel. -Harvey (23 years ago, 2-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Dummy truck (was Re: Un-powered replacement for train motor —Larry Pieniazek
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| | | | | (...) all external dimensions matched. The dummy truck that I use in MTW 2001, 3001 and 3002, for example, is not one plate taller than the regular motor, it's the same height. (23 years ago, 2-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | Re: Un-powered replacement for train motor —Derek Raycraft
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| | | | Cool, I was working on one of these too. (URL) did mine a little differently. By replacing the bogie plate with a 2x2 plate with a pin out the top, the 1x2 plates with the center bump could be placed in the groove part of the train wheels. This (...) (23 years ago, 3-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | 2x2 turntables vs 2x2-with-pin plates was Re: Un-powered replacement for train motor —Christopher Masi
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| | | | (...) I was going to use the 2x2-with-pin plate in my designs too, but I found the 2x2-with-pin plate to make my cars to tippy. When I made my double-stack well cars (what is the right name for those?) I decided to try the 2x2-with-pin plate to put (...) (23 years ago, 3-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: 2x2 turntables vs 2x2-with-pin plates was Re: Un-powered replacement for train motor —Josh Baakko
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| | | | | <snip> (...) You got it right. People also call them container cars (which is what i use for the ease of foreign readers. Josh (23 years ago, 4-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: 2x2 turntables vs 2x2-with-pin plates was Re: Un-powered replacement for train motor —Jason J. Railton
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| | | | | (...) What you need to do is put some tiles around the pin-plate. Not right to the ends of the bogus motor block, but about the 6x6 size of a normal bogey plate. If you do take the tiles right to the end, it won't rotate properly under the wagon (...) (23 years ago, 4-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | | Re: 2x2 turntables vs 2x2-with-pin plates was Re: Un-powered replacement for train motor —Jason J. Railton
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| | | | | | (...) Oops, I meant 6x4. I find if you're centreing the pin plate you can tile a 7x4 area around it without having any turning problems on a 6x28 baseplate. It's a shame those old 2x3 helicopter rotor mounts don't have the right size pin on them. (...) (23 years ago, 4-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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| | | | | | Re: 2x2 turntables vs 2x2-with-pin plates was Re: Un-powered replacement for train motor —Derek Raycraft
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| | | | (...) Your right this does make it a little tippy. I forgot to mension I was building 8 wide, so I was using a technic plate to mount the truck to the body of the engine. This along with the extra width of the engine, and the extra length I used on (...) (23 years ago, 4-Jul-01, to lugnet.trains)
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