Subject:
|
Re: Jason J. Railton; de-lurking [& TVLF Trains]
|
Newsgroups:
|
lugnet.loc.uk
|
Date:
|
Sun, 13 Aug 2000 23:08:30 GMT
|
Viewed:
|
465 times
|
| |
|
|
In lugnet.loc.uk, Jonathan Reynolds writes:
> I will have to locate my spoked drivers quickly so I can catch up with you! An
> interesting project, but I have read it through a few times and would like to
> see the pictures to really understand what you have done here JJ.
>
> Are you using 'tender drive'? My intention is to use the 4.5v unit for the
> leading two main driving axles with the battery box in the tender, which just
> happens to be blue of course. Also, (in whispered voice) I intent to modify
> the large wheels by turning off the outer rims- there, said it! Only one
> thing puts me off doing this, the fact that the ABS might not take this
> machining and shatter. I cannot afford to practice on wheels this rare either!
>
> Whatever traction method is used, it is important for me that the model wll
> negotiate LEGO curves and points so I guess I've got some work to do.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jon
Pictures? Well, I'm still trying to put a website together. Yes, I've built
the tender around a motor block. I couldn't hide the motor in the body
because the main part of the body is only four studs wide. The trouble is,
this gives me nowhere to hide the batteries. I might build a coach (now I've
got plenty of brown bricks from a Trade Federation MTT) and stick some
batteries in that.
If the motor is driving the larger wheels, it'll go twice as fast as your
normal trains. Remember that this would be more load on the motor and the
wheels, particularly when stopping and starting a heavy model.
Some simpler tips then. My tender coupling is simply a very small clip, the
kind used to clip a minifig's radio to the side of their space scooter. The
trick is to mount it centrally on the tender. There's also a rare part from
some castle sets - a 2x1 plate with a small bar that comes out of the side
then sticks up vertically. I mount this on the back of the rear bogey, and
the tender clips to it. This would probably come apart if the cab was
pulling, though.
The trick to hanging 2x8 plates down the outside of the wheels (as skirts) is
to somehow have studs facing outward from the sides of the main body. Then,
build outward using bricks on their side.
The ABS (particularly from Lego over 20 years old) is very brittle. I can see
signs of strain (pale areas) in the spokes of some of my wheels. I don't know
what process you were planning to use to take the rims off, but it's going to
be very risky.
Here's what I'd suggest: get some plasticene, knead it to get it soft, then
push a wheel into it carefully and evenly. Push some more in from the back,
but try not to get any into the centre where the metal spike goes into the
plastic. Let it set a bit stiffer, then trim the excess away with a craft
knife. This should take some of the stress off the spokes as you work on the
rim. Just don't take too much plastic off. Dabbing with plasticene or blue-
tak should get the last little bits of plasticene off, but you'd probably be
best off using red plasticene, because you'll probably get a few tiny bits
stuck somewhere.
Now, I haven't tried this myself - it's just an idea. But, the point is to
take the stress off any one spoke. And if you're cutting, just shave a little
off each time with a very sharp knife. Dig in to the plastic and it'll
fracture big time. Although it's even more dodgy, personally I'd prefer to
hold the wheel than try to clamp it whilst working. But, I can't be
responsible for loss of fingers.
Even if this works, you may find that the inner rim is still too thick to
tackle points. Train wheels have a very thin rim on them, and they're tapered
to keep the wheels on the track. You could always try it with some more
common block wheels first, to see if they ride the rails well. I'd hate for
you to go to all this trouble only to find you still can't use the wheels.
And, if you combine large wheels with train wheels (not simple small wheels),
you'll find getting the ride height right for both a bit of a swine.
Still, best of luck. I'd like to see it some time.
JJ.
|
|
Message is in Reply To:
 | | Re: Jason J. Railton; de-lurking [& TVLF Trains]
|
| (...) I will have to locate my spoked drivers quickly so I can catch up with you! An interesting project, but I have read it through a few times and would like to see the pictures to really understand what you have done here JJ. Are you using (...) (24 years ago, 13-Aug-00, to lugnet.loc.uk)
|
13 Messages in This Thread:
 
- Entire Thread on One Page:
- Nested:
All | Brief | Compact | Dots
Linear:
All | Brief | Compact
|
|
|
|
