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Subject: 
Re: Jason J. Railton; de-lurking [& TVLF Trains]
Newsgroups: 
lugnet.loc.uk
Date: 
Sun, 13 Aug 2000 21:43:45 GMT
Viewed: 
489 times
  

Of course, you could always model the modified version without skirts!

They made one without?  I didn't know that.  Spot the spotter now, eh?
Seriously though, good luck with it.  It's quite a tricky one to make look
good.  Anyway, here's how I did the tricky bits on mine.

I couldn't pivot the rear driving wheels - the fairings are too tight.
They're only about one-and-a-half plates wider than the overall six studs.
What I've done is make the main length of the boiler four studs wide, and
fitted several 1x1 plates with side-tubes along it (so they show in the side
of the body like this: ####O=####O=#### ), then put a 1x1 plate on the side of
each one.  This provides a stud flush* with the side of the body.

I then build out sideways to the height of one brick.  A curve at the front,
then a 4x1 beam, then headlight bricks between the tops of the wheels, with
the side-studs actually facing upward.  I lay 1xn plates along the top and
hang 2xn plates on the sides to cover the wheels.

The cab is sort of mini-fig-ified.  I don't have any blue windows, so the
sides are open like older locos, and instead of any lines I've just added a
single yellow stripe down the side, so it doesn't look too dull.

I've now solved the problem of a flexible coupling to the tender.  The tender
has to couple to the rear bogey, not the cab, or the flexibility is wasted.
But, I didn't have room to get those 2x2 ball-and-socket types between the
rear wheel block and the motor block without the tender appearing three studs
away from the cab.  And, I don't have any 1x4 ball or sockets in black.

Instead, I've used a 2x1 black plate, on top of that a 1x1 and a 1x1 with side
clip, then a 2x1 with single central stud on top of that.  This goes into the
centre tube under the front of the motor block, so the clip sticks out
forwards.  I then fit a 2x1 plate with an upright spike on the side (from the
knight's squire cart) as low as possible behind the rear wheel block.  The two
clip together flexibly enough, and won't need to take much load since the
tender actually pushes the cab along.  Now the tender sits just one stud away
from the cab.

I've used ball-and-socket couplings at a height just above the ends of the
motor on my Caledonian train, so I've added a socket above the rear of the
motor in the Mallard tender so that it can at least tow those carriages.  I
don't have any separate magnets you see.  The only magnets I have are on two
broken train chassis.

JJ.

*Note that there seem to be too different mouldings of the side tube - some
have a thicker mid section, so the 1x1 plates don't quite sit flush with the
side.  I bet they thought we'd never notice the difference.

I will have to locate my spoked drivers quickly so I can catch up with you! An
interesting project, but I have read it through a few times and would like to
see the pictures to really understand what you have done here JJ.

Are you using 'tender drive'? My intention is to use the 4.5v unit for the
leading two main driving axles with the battery box in the tender, which just
happens to be blue of course. Also, (in whispered voice) I intent to modify
the large wheels by turning off the outer rims-  there, said it! Only one
thing puts me off doing this, the fact that the ABS might not take this
machining and shatter. I cannot afford to practice on wheels this rare either!

Whatever traction method is used, it is important for me that the model wll
negotiate LEGO curves and points so I guess I've got some work to do.

Regards,

Jon



Message has 2 Replies:
  Re: Jason J. Railton; de-lurking [& TVLF Trains]
 
(...) Pictures? Well, I'm still trying to put a website together. Yes, I've built the tender around a motor block. I couldn't hide the motor in the body because the main part of the body is only four studs wide. The trouble is, this gives me nowhere (...) (24 years ago, 13-Aug-00, to lugnet.loc.uk)
  Re: Jason J. Railton; de-lurking [& TVLF Trains]
 
(...) See my note in "Thanks guys! (& my projects update)" - my driving wheels now ride higher and can drift off the track, but the bogeys keep the train in line. JJ. (24 years ago, 21-Aug-00, to lugnet.loc.uk)

Message is in Reply To:
  Re: Jason J. Railton; de-lurking [& TVLF Trains]
 
(...) They made one without? I didn't know that. Spot the spotter now, eh? Seriously though, good luck with it. It's quite a tricky one to make look good. Anyway, here's how I did the tricky bits on mine. I couldn't pivot the rear driving wheels - (...) (24 years ago, 13-Aug-00, to lugnet.loc.uk)

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