| |
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
This redesign is absolutely brilliant! Time to make a couple dozen automated
switch points...
- Chris.
|
|
| |
In lugnet.trains, Chris Phillips wrote:
| |
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
| |
New version! Now, the main body is only 4x6 studs:
|
This redesign is absolutely brilliant! Time to make a couple dozen automated
switch points...
|
Thanks Chris, but apparently this design as it stands is too sensitive to the
clutch strength of the components being used. Yesterday, I ran it over 100
times without the hint of a problem, but today after partially disassembling and
reassembling it, it won’t go more than about 50 switches without
self-destructing. I think the primary issue is keeping the motor from
seperating from the base. Have to think about this...
Mark
|
|
| |
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
| |
In lugnet.trains, Chris Phillips wrote:
| |
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
| |
New version! Now, the main body is only 4x6 studs:
|
This redesign is absolutely brilliant! Time to make a couple dozen
automated switch points...
|
Thanks Chris, but apparently this design as it stands is too sensitive to the
clutch strength of the components being used. Yesterday, I ran it over 100
times without the hint of a problem, but today after partially disassembling
and reassembling it, it won’t go more than about 50 switches without
self-destructing. I think the primary issue is keeping the motor from
seperating from the base. Have to think about this...
Mark
|
I built one of Marks last night, and yes, even with the ‘closed studs’ and other
avenues of ‘keepin’ it together’, the plates adn motor do eventually come loose.
Sometimes it’s 20 times, sometimes it’s 60-80 times, but the unit does work
itself to ‘self destruct mode.
Let me tell you that when the Metroliner is zooming around the layout and all of
a sudden there’s a 2x3 panel on the rails... much fun and destruction ensues :)
Thank goodness some guy whom I can’t remember made up DCC for LEGO trains...
Full stop on all locos, thus preventing cascading train wrecks :)
Anyway, As for fixing... if there’s a way to get a half thick technic beam to
bound the bottom and top together... but I can’t figure out how--or maybe some
other ‘technic-way’ of locking the unit together...
I’ll try a few things tonight.
Dave K
|
|
| |
In lugnet.trains, David Koudys wrote:
| |
I built one of Marks last night, and yes, even with the ‘closed studs’ and
other avenues of ‘keepin’ it together’, the plates adn motor do eventually
come loose. Sometimes it’s 20 times, sometimes it’s 60-80 times, but the unit
does work itself to ‘self destruct mode.
|
Dave, which version did you build (the 4x8 version or the 4x6 version)? My 4x8
seems to be holding together at the moment... knock on wood.
I did notice that the transparent panels (vs. the opaque ones) are made of a
stiffer material and seem to work much better in this application. So, it may
not be the open vs. closed studs but the material that matters.
Yes, a brick-plate-plate-brick type method is what’s called for here, but I
haven’t come up with any elegant solutions yet.
Cheers,
Mark
|
|
| |
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
| |
In lugnet.trains, David Koudys wrote:
| |
I built one of Marks last night, and yes, even with the ‘closed studs’ and
other avenues of ‘keepin’ it together’, the plates adn motor do eventually
come loose. Sometimes it’s 20 times, sometimes it’s 60-80 times, but the
unit does work itself to ‘self destruct mode.
|
Dave, which version did you build (the 4x8 version or the 4x6 version)? My
4x8 seems to be holding together at the moment... knock on wood.
|
Yeah, I used the 4x6 version (2 wide panels), and eventually one of the panels
would go flying, or the motor would pop up. But it does last a bit, and it’s
like ‘Russian Roulette’--when is the switcher going to self destruct and will
that destruction cause havoc on the rails? Place yer bets!
| |
I did notice that the transparent panels (vs. the opaque ones) are made of a
stiffer material and seem to work much better in this application. So, it
may not be the open vs. closed studs but the material that matters.
|
I’ll see tonite.
| |
Yes, a brick-plate-plate-brick type method is what’s called for here, but I
haven’t come up with any elegant solutions yet.
|
Just thinking at work about it makes my day go by faster :)
Dave K
|
|
| |
Mark Riley wrote:
> In lugnet.trains, Chris Phillips wrote:
>
> > In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
> >
> > > New version! Now, the main body is only 4x6 studs:
> > >
> > > <http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/markril/Trains/TSwitch2/a1.jpg
> > > <http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/markril/Trains/TSwitch2/thumb/a1.jpg_thumb.jpg>>
> >
> > This redesign is absolutely brilliant! Time to make a couple dozen automated
> > switch points...
>
>
> Thanks Chris, but apparently this design as it stands is too sensitive to the
> clutch strength of the components being used. Yesterday, I ran it over 100
> times without the hint of a problem, but today after partially disassembling and
> reassembling it, it won't go more than about 50 switches without
> self-destructing. I think the primary issue is keeping the motor from
> seperating from the base. Have to think about this...
>
> Mark
Mark,
Do you have an extra speed regulator lying around? If the answer is
yes, then you could run all of your powered points off a speed regulator
that isn't set to full power. Two problems solved! Nice small design by
the way.
Oh yeah, problem car... peshaw... think bigger! Build them wide,
8-wide, build them big, real big, and damn the torpedos, the buildings
too :)
Chris M
|
|
| |
In lugnet.trains, David Koudys wrote:
| |
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
| |
In lugnet.trains, David Koudys wrote:
| |
I built one of Marks last night, and yes, even with the ‘closed studs’ and
other avenues of ‘keepin’ it together’, the plates adn motor do eventually
come loose. Sometimes it’s 20 times, sometimes it’s 60-80 times, but the
unit does work itself to ‘self destruct mode.
|
Dave, which version did you build (the 4x8 version or the 4x6 version)? My
4x8 seems to be holding together at the moment... knock on wood.
|
Yeah, I used the 4x6 version (2 wide panels), and eventually one of the
panels would go flying, or the motor would pop up. But it does last a bit,
and it’s like ‘Russian Roulette’--when is the switcher going to self destruct
and will that destruction cause havoc on the rails? Place yer bets!
|
Well, all is not lost... I think I have a workable solution, though it isn’t as
elegant looking as before and adds 1 brick to the height:
And:
It uses Plate 2 x 2 with Hole (#2444) to secure the bottom of the motor:
This part does protrude beyond the base of the unit by a fraction of a plate,
but it’s hardly noticable.
I tested it 500 times on my desk and the carpet and it held together. The
roof plate does still want to separate, but it reaches a limit and then doesn’t
separate further. I’ll have to do some more testing before posting instructions
this time. :-D
BTW, I hope your Metroliner did not suffer serious injury (again :-P).
Mark
|
|
| |
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
snip
| |
BTW, I hope your Metroliner did not suffer serious injury (again :-P).
Mark
|
It’s like the first scratch on a new vehicle--after that you really don’t care
anymore. Baah--just another scuff :)
My switches are pretty much on the inside of my layout so even if a train does
derail due to a faulty switch mechanism, the train just falls off the track onto
the layout--nowhere near the floor :)
Dave K
-who will try this latest iteration when he gets home tonight!
|
|
| |
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
| |
In lugnet.trains, Chris Phillips wrote:
| |
In lugnet.trains, Mark Riley wrote:
| |
New version! Now, the main body is only 4x6 studs:
|
This redesign is absolutely brilliant! Time to make a couple dozen
automated switch points...
|
Thanks Chris, but apparently this design as it stands is too sensitive to the
clutch strength of the components being used. Yesterday, I ran it over 100
times without the hint of a problem, but today after partially disassembling
and reassembling it, it won’t go more than about 50 switches without
self-destructing. I think the primary issue is keeping the motor from
seperating from the base. Have to think about this...
|
Hi Mark,
Along with Chris, I totally agree that your design is brilliant. I tested both
versions (long and short) and both prooved to be very stable with my switch
points. At least after 200 tests. To be honest, I oil my switch points with pure
vaseline oil, as mentioned in a former message
(http://news.lugnet.com/trains/?n=21873) and this reduces very significantly
the effort needed by the motor to action the switch point. It may contribute to
the mechanical stability of your system.
Thank you Mark for this great contribution. Now all my 71427-based power unit
are build from your proposal. :-)
All the best,
Philippe.
|
|
| |
In lugnet.trains, Philippe Label wrote:
| |
Along with Chris, I totally agree that your design is brilliant. I tested
both versions (long and short) and both prooved to be very stable with my
switch points. At least after 200 tests. To be honest, I oil my switch points
with pure vaseline oil, as mentioned in a former message
(http://news.lugnet.com/trains/?n=21873) and this reduces very
significantly the effort needed by the motor to action the switch point. It
may contribute to the mechanical stability of your system.
|
Thanks, Philippe. I must say that it was your article at the FreeLUG site that
got me thinking along these lines. I remember having to search all over the
place when I was working on my first motorized switch!
Here’s the latest version of the 4x6 switch unit:
In this version, the base attachment has been enlarged and strengthened and
another 4x6 plate was added to the roof. The three 1x1 plates from the previous
version were also eliminated as I considered these to be a source of weakness.
I built four of these and all of them are holding together very well. I’ve been
using the transparent 2x3 panels from set 4561 as I’ve found these to be a lot stiffer than the other opaque panels I’ve
tried (besides, it just plain looks cooler with the transparent panels... :-).
Brickshelf folder (with LDraw file and building instructions):
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=66192
I will have to try the vaseline oil on one of my switches, as this switch is
very difficult to throw because of internal friction.
Cheers,
Mark
|
|
| |
In lugnet.trains, Christopher Masi wrote:
> Do you have an extra speed regulator lying around? If the answer is
> yes, then you could run all of your powered points off a speed regulator
> that isn't set to full power. Two problems solved!
Great idea! I just tried this with the speed regulator set to level 4 (6 being
max) and it reduces the impact considerably, but there's still enough power for
a reliable throw. I've been using the motorized switches with my RCX (running
LACC) and this suggests a new feature of allowing the power level to be adjusted
when throwing the switch.
> Nice small design by
> the way.
Thank you.
> Oh yeah, problem car... peshaw... think bigger! Build them wide,
> 8-wide, build them big, real big, and damn the torpedos, the buildings
> too :)
And, everything else that gets in the way! Jeez, building 6-wide cars is
expensive enough, I can only imagine what it costs in parts for a nice long
8-wide loco...
Thanks for the suggestion,
Mark
|
|
|
