 | | | | | | |
| |
|
Hello All!!!
After much anticipation, I am both excited and pleased to formally announce
The Medieval Marketplace: A Common Castle Builders project. Below is the
final version of the "Market Standard", the building standard for all market
shops. Please be sure to read the "Inspiration" and "Concept" headers to
learn more about the project.
I was originally hoping to be able to announce the "Marketplace" along with
a dedicated web site but unfortunately, due to uncontrolable circumstances,
the Marketplace web site will not be available until Tuesday or Wendesday.
When the site launches, you will be able to find it at
www.ozbricks.com/medievalmarket.
Have fun building and we'll be watching for your market shops!!!
Jeremy Scott
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Be sure to add your name to the .castle roll call:
http://news.lugnet.com/castle/?n=14825
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Medieval Marketplace
A Common Castle Builders Project
Marketplace Standard Version 1.1
October 27, 2002
The Inspiration:
The Lego Castle enthusiast community was in need of inspiration. Due to the
complexity in the design and construction of a true castle, the community
was slowly killing itself in the dulled silence while we built away in our
personal confines. The community needed a common project, that is easy to
participate in, which allows for us to share our ideas, building techniques
and inspiration in-between our larger projects.
When co-founder Erik J announced a “call-to-arms” many castle builders
joined together to brainstorm a common project. Jeremy S suggested the idea
for the marketplace and after support was shown for this idea, a
brainstorming group formed and further developed the idea. The Medieval
Marketplace Project was born.
The Concept:
The Marketplace was the cornerstone of every Feudal Age village. The local
Lords needed the peasants to support a thriving economy. Markets met often,
and both local and foreign merchantmen would sell their services and goods.
Some merchantmen even created some of their goods onsite while their
customers shopped. The local Lord made hefty profit on the steep taxes
charged at these events.
Lego Castle enthusiasts normally focus on building the Military structures
of the Feudal Ages in their models. Most seem to disregard the common
“every day life” of the peasants when constructing Feudal Age models and
layouts. However, no longer. The Marketplace project will open up the
horizons while creating a tighter community as we share our market shops.
When we meet at conventions or club get-togethers, we can bring our market
shops together in real life and put together a large Marketplace.
The brainstorming group decided to create a building standard that allowed
for unlimited building possibilities while creating a compatibility in each
shop so that they may come together to create a marketplace.
The Basic Marketplace Shop:
----Baseplate:
A common Lego 16x16 baseplate with smooth bottom is the standard size for a
Marketplace Shop. The baseplate must be green, unless the market shop is
being built custom for a show where the color has been defined as something
other than green. (IE: the show will have a desert marketplace, therefore
the baseplate will be tan.)
----Building Area:
The road is integrated into the shop’s baseplate. The standard road width
is 8 studs, therefore, there must have a 4 stud deep offset from the front
of the baseplate to the front of the shop. There must also be a 1 stud
offset on the back of the shop for an alleyway. Otherwise, there is no side
offset required. We recommend you include a one stud offset if you would
rather not have you shop butted against another. The maximum building area
is 11x16 studs.
----Overhang:
There is a one-stud overhang allowed on the front of the shop. The overhang
must be based off the main structure, and not have any supports outside of
the 11x16 stud building area.
----Shape:
There are no additional requirements as to the vertical size or the shape of
the shop with the exception that the entry to the shop, (If applicable) must
be tall enough for a minifigure wearing a helmet to pass through. This is
generally 5 bricks high. This rule may be nullified if the shop is selling
dwarf only items.
Additional Configurations:
----Corner Shop:
A 16x16 or 16x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is 11x12 or
11x28. The 4 stud offset must apply to the 2 sides of the shop facing the road.
----Wide Shop:
A 16x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is 11x32.
----2 Shops B2B:
A 16x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is standard for each shop.
The two shops are separate and must be separated by a 2 wide alleyway in the
middle. Each end of the baseplate must have the 4 deep offset for the road.
----2 Wide Shops B2B:
A 32x32 baseplate may be used. The building areas are each 11x32. The two
shops are separate and must be separated by a 2 wide alleyway in the middle.
Each end of the baseplate must have the 4 deep offset for the road.
----4 shops B2B:
A 32x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is standard for each shop.
The four shops are separate and must be separated by a 2 wide alleyway in
the middle. Each end of the baseplate must have the 4 deep offset for the road.
Connection:
We will connect the shops by using green 2xN plates placed in-between each shop.
Shop Ideas:
(The full list of shop ideas will be available on the web site when it is
launched.)
As a final note:
Please remember the published standard is only to promote compatibility
between each shop. Please note that we as the brainstorming group did out
best to ensure the standards do not limit the building possibilities of each
builder. As a final note – have fun!!!
Credits go out to:
Erick J for his motivating call to arms, Jeremy S for the idea, the whole
brain storming committee (Erick J, Jason M, Aaron M, Frank F, Josh W, Alan
F, Lenny H, Jeremy S) for creating the standards, ozBricks for the web site
hosting, Jeremy S for site design, the great castle builders of the past and
present for birthing our great castle community and to all the great castle
builders of the future who will embrace and strengthen the ideals of the
Medieval Marketplace Project.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
WOOOHOOOOOO!!! Here we go!!
Thanks Jeremy for all the hard work!
e.
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
Great job, Jeremy! Thanks again for organizing all of this!
Josh
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
Sounds fun.
Is the link incorrect tho as I'm getting a 404 error???
--
James Stacey
---------
www.minifig.co.uk
#925 - I'm a citizen of Legoland travelling Incommunicado
"Jeremy Scott" <Copyright@cox.net> wrote in message
news:H4o7AG.2zA@lugnet.com...
> Hello All!!!
>
> After much anticipation, I am both excited and pleased to formally • announce
> The Medieval Marketplace: A Common Castle Builders project. Below is the
> final version of the "Market Standard", the building standard for all • market
> shops. Please be sure to read the "Inspiration" and "Concept" headers to
> learn more about the project.
>
> I was originally hoping to be able to announce the "Marketplace" along • with
> a dedicated web site but unfortunately, due to uncontrolable • circumstances,
> the Marketplace web site will not be available until Tuesday or Wendesday.
> When the site launches, you will be able to find it at
> www.ozbricks.com/medievalmarket.
>
> Have fun building and we'll be watching for your market shops!!!
>
> Jeremy Scott
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------- • ----
>
> Be sure to add your name to the .castle roll call:
> http://news.lugnet.com/castle/?n=14825
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------- • ----
>
> The Medieval Marketplace
> A Common Castle Builders Project
> Marketplace Standard Version 1.1
> October 27, 2002
>
> The Inspiration:
>
> The Lego Castle enthusiast community was in need of inspiration. Due to • the
> complexity in the design and construction of a true castle, the community
> was slowly killing itself in the dulled silence while we built away in our
> personal confines. The community needed a common project, that is easy to
> participate in, which allows for us to share our ideas, building • techniques
> and inspiration in-between our larger projects.
>
> When co-founder Erik J announced a "call-to-arms" many castle builders
> joined together to brainstorm a common project. Jeremy S suggested the • idea
> for the marketplace and after support was shown for this idea, a
> brainstorming group formed and further developed the idea. The Medieval
> Marketplace Project was born.
>
> The Concept:
>
> The Marketplace was the cornerstone of every Feudal Age village. The • local
> Lords needed the peasants to support a thriving economy. Markets met • often,
> and both local and foreign merchantmen would sell their services and • goods.
> Some merchantmen even created some of their goods onsite while their
> customers shopped. The local Lord made hefty profit on the steep taxes
> charged at these events.
>
> Lego Castle enthusiasts normally focus on building the Military structures
> of the Feudal Ages in their models. Most seem to disregard the common
> "every day life" of the peasants when constructing Feudal Age models and
> layouts. However, no longer. The Marketplace project will open up the
> horizons while creating a tighter community as we share our market shops.
> When we meet at conventions or club get-togethers, we can bring our market
> shops together in real life and put together a large Marketplace.
>
> The brainstorming group decided to create a building standard that allowed
> for unlimited building possibilities while creating a compatibility in • each
> shop so that they may come together to create a marketplace.
>
> The Basic Marketplace Shop:
>
> ----Baseplate:
>
> A common Lego 16x16 baseplate with smooth bottom is the standard size for • a
> Marketplace Shop. The baseplate must be green, unless the market shop is
> being built custom for a show where the color has been defined as • something
> other than green. (IE: the show will have a desert marketplace, therefore
> the baseplate will be tan.)
>
> ----Building Area:
>
> The road is integrated into the shop's baseplate. The standard road width
> is 8 studs, therefore, there must have a 4 stud deep offset from the front
> of the baseplate to the front of the shop. There must also be a 1 stud
> offset on the back of the shop for an alleyway. Otherwise, there is no • side
> offset required. We recommend you include a one stud offset if you would
> rather not have you shop butted against another. The maximum building • area
> is 11x16 studs.
>
> ----Overhang:
>
> There is a one-stud overhang allowed on the front of the shop. The • overhang
> must be based off the main structure, and not have any supports outside of
> the 11x16 stud building area.
>
> ----Shape:
>
> There are no additional requirements as to the vertical size or the shape • of
> the shop with the exception that the entry to the shop, (If applicable) • must
> be tall enough for a minifigure wearing a helmet to pass through. This is
> generally 5 bricks high. This rule may be nullified if the shop is • selling
> dwarf only items.
>
> Additional Configurations:
>
> ----Corner Shop:
>
> A 16x16 or 16x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is 11x12 or
> 11x28. The 4 stud offset must apply to the 2 sides of the shop facing the • road.
>
> ----Wide Shop:
>
> A 16x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is 11x32.
>
> ----2 Shops B2B:
>
> A 16x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is standard for each • shop.
> The two shops are separate and must be separated by a 2 wide alleyway in • the
> middle. Each end of the baseplate must have the 4 deep offset for the • road.
>
> ----2 Wide Shops B2B:
>
> A 32x32 baseplate may be used. The building areas are each 11x32. The two
> shops are separate and must be separated by a 2 wide alleyway in the • middle.
> Each end of the baseplate must have the 4 deep offset for the road.
>
> ----4 shops B2B:
>
> A 32x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is standard for each • shop.
> The four shops are separate and must be separated by a 2 wide alleyway in
> the middle. Each end of the baseplate must have the 4 deep offset for the • road.
>
> Connection:
>
> We will connect the shops by using green 2xN plates placed in-between each • shop.
>
> Shop Ideas:
>
> (The full list of shop ideas will be available on the web site when it is
> launched.)
>
> As a final note:
>
> Please remember the published standard is only to promote compatibility
> between each shop. Please note that we as the brainstorming group did out
> best to ensure the standards do not limit the building possibilities of • each
> builder. As a final note - have fun!!!
>
> Credits go out to:
>
> Erick J for his motivating call to arms, Jeremy S for the idea, the whole
> brain storming committee (Erick J, Jason M, Aaron M, Frank F, Josh W, Alan
> F, Lenny H, Jeremy S) for creating the standards, ozBricks for the web • site
> hosting, Jeremy S for site design, the great castle builders of the past • and
> present for birthing our great castle community and to all the great • castle
> builders of the future who will embrace and strengthen the ideals of the
> Medieval Marketplace Project.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
Hi James,
The link is correct but the site won't be up until later this week.
Build On!
Josh
In lugnet.castle, James Stacey writes:
> Sounds fun.
> Is the link incorrect tho as I'm getting a 404 error???
>
> --
> James Stacey
> ---------
> www.minifig.co.uk
> #925 - I'm a citizen of Legoland travelling Incommunicado
>
> > I was originally hoping to be able to announce the "Marketplace" along • with
> > a dedicated web site but unfortunately, due to uncontrolable • circumstances,
> > the Marketplace web site will not be available until Tuesday or Wendesday.
> > When the site launches, you will be able to find it at
> > www.ozbricks.com/medievalmarket.
> >
> > Have fun building and we'll be watching for your market shops!!!
> >
> > Jeremy Scott
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
Alright! Was wondering why Space should have all the fun with the Moon Base
Module project, when the old castle sets were first with the modular idea!
In lugnet.castle, Josh Wedin writes:
> Hi James,
>
> The link is correct but the site won't be up until later this week.
>
> Build On!
> Josh
>
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
In lugnet.castle, Jeremy Scott writes:
> Hello All!!!
<snipped first part of excellent idea>
> ----Baseplate:
>
> A common Lego 16x16 baseplate with smooth bottom is the standard size for a
> Marketplace Shop. The baseplate must be green, unless the market shop is
> being built custom for a show where the color has been defined as something
> other than green. (IE: the show will have a desert marketplace, therefore
> the baseplate will be tan.)
<and snipped the rest>
First off, great idea and setup, just the thing needed to breath some life
back into .castle. In fact, I've started on my first module for this
project. The above section is the only one I'd like to critique.
Now, most of the time un-paved roads are worn areas (IRL and in 99% of the
Lego villages I've seen). So I think it only makes sense to make tan the
standard, with the option of adding the green on to landscape. This will
further enhance the worn in, rutted look of the road. Green would be more
for courtyard and outskirt areas.
Of course, just my opinion. Plus, in my case, tan baseplates of the 16x
persuasion are more abundant in my collection.
Even if the standard is strictly kept green, it should be ok for me to use a
tan baseplate and "green up" the edges, yes?
(for example, look at the meshing of green and tan, particularly in front of
the small house beside the church, in this folder):
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=13151
I hope that this idea is at least considered.
Eagerly anticipating seeing this idea take off,
-Chris
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
Hi Chris,
The standard is currently green; however we wanted it to be as flexible as
possible. I am sure that it would be okay to use a tan plate if you
"greened" up the edges where it would meet the other shops. The main idea
is getting together with other people and having shops that "fit" together.
We thought about making the paths brown or tan but decided to go with green
because it makes it easily for the most people to be able to build according
to the standard. Anyway, that was our thoughts.
Josh
> Now, most of the time un-paved roads are worn areas (IRL and in 99% of the
> Lego villages I've seen). So I think it only makes sense to make tan the
> standard, with the option of adding the green on to landscape. This will
> further enhance the worn in, rutted look of the road. Green would be more
> for courtyard and outskirt areas.
>
> Of course, just my opinion. Plus, in my case, tan baseplates of the 16x
> persuasion are more abundant in my collection.
>
> Even if the standard is strictly kept green, it should be ok for me to use a
> tan baseplate and "green up" the edges, yes?
> (for example, look at the meshing of green and tan, particularly in front of
> the small house beside the church, in this folder):
> http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=13151
>
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
Just to further comment (while still agreeing with Josh)...
The other reason we did choose green as the standard, was because we knew
green is the color most commonly found on a baseplate. While our motives
were quite the opposite of pleasing just ourselves, for many of us, our
personal collections persauded different decisions. Therefore, since the
green was more common in many of our collections, we saw it fit to use the
more common color so that we could ensure that we did not make it difficult
for people with small collections to participate.
Also, though this fact had little to do with our desicion making, the real
temporary type marketplaces which we based our plans on were set up on a
field and lasted for only a few days. Though there may be a noticable path
left when the market is torn down, it would not be as noticable as a well
worn road and should still be very greenish.
I hope that Josh and my comments make sense. The standard is only to ensure
that the shops are compatable. If you wish to show a worn area we welcome
you to because it shows the unique building style of each builder, and we
want that. The standard is flexable. :)
Jeremy
In lugnet.castle, Josh Wedin writes:
> Hi Chris,
>
> The standard is currently green; however we wanted it to be as flexible as
> possible. I am sure that it would be okay to use a tan plate if you
> "greened" up the edges where it would meet the other shops. The main idea
> is getting together with other people and having shops that "fit" together.
> We thought about making the paths brown or tan but decided to go with green
> because it makes it easily for the most people to be able to build according
> to the standard. Anyway, that was our thoughts.
>
> Josh
>
> > Now, most of the time un-paved roads are worn areas (IRL and in 99% of the
> > Lego villages I've seen). So I think it only makes sense to make tan the
> > standard, with the option of adding the green on to landscape. This will
> > further enhance the worn in, rutted look of the road. Green would be more
> > for courtyard and outskirt areas.
> >
> > Of course, just my opinion. Plus, in my case, tan baseplates of the 16x
> > persuasion are more abundant in my collection.
> >
> > Even if the standard is strictly kept green, it should be ok for me to use a
> > tan baseplate and "green up" the edges, yes?
> > (for example, look at the meshing of green and tan, particularly in front of
> > the small house beside the church, in this folder):
> > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=13151
> >
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
Hi Josh,
Along Chris's line of thinking -- there are a lot of sets from recent years
with 16x32 tan or brown baseplates - anyone that collects the original
Adventurers or Wild West series has a truck load of them, myself included. I
can't think of many sets in the last.. 5 years that came with green
16x32's.. they've been less prevelant.
If the goal is to allow the most people to join in, unless you're talking
those with purely Old School (IE: 80's to early 90's) collections, it seems
like you could be shooting some people in the foot by making it be green and
only tan/brown if in the desert. Most town markets would have a bit of
trouble keeping their grass green and growing - it's trampled to heck and
back by thousands of hoofs, feet and wagon wheels.
Having a permanently built Ren Faire only an hour south of me, I've seen the
results of this in "reality" -- the grass is in the large fields behind the
shop buildings but there just isn't much more than brown scrub between the
shops because it's been scoured down to rock and dirt. The only place that
is an exception is where the creek splits the Faire's property -- there are
lots of trees and grass for maybe 30 feet on either side along the banks.
I know you said it would likely be 'ok' to have green plates along the edges
of a tan baseplate to blend it, which I think is a great idea (love your
example Chris, it's perfect) but there are also people that don't
necessarily have much in the way of green plates to do that.
Just a thought aimed towards inclusion vs unintentional exclusion. The Space
guys need gray plates for obvious reasons.. castle doesn't 'have' to have
green. It's not about the plates, it's about the spirit right? :)
JJ
In lugnet.castle, Josh Wedin writes:
> Hi Chris,
>
> The standard is currently green; however we wanted it to be as flexible as
> possible. I am sure that it would be okay to use a tan plate if you
> "greened" up the edges where it would meet the other shops. The main idea
> is getting together with other people and having shops that "fit" together.
> We thought about making the paths brown or tan but decided to go with green
> because it makes it easily for the most people to be able to build according
> to the standard. Anyway, that was our thoughts.
>
> Josh
>
> > Now, most of the time un-paved roads are worn areas (IRL and in 99% of the
> > Lego villages I've seen). So I think it only makes sense to make tan the
> > standard, with the option of adding the green on to landscape. This will
> > further enhance the worn in, rutted look of the road. Green would be more
> > for courtyard and outskirt areas.
> >
> > Of course, just my opinion. Plus, in my case, tan baseplates of the 16x
> > persuasion are more abundant in my collection.
> >
> > Even if the standard is strictly kept green, it should be ok for me to use a
> > tan baseplate and "green up" the edges, yes?
> > (for example, look at the meshing of green and tan, particularly in front of
> > the small house beside the church, in this folder):
> > http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=13151
> >
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
Just to comment even more (while agreeing with Josh and Jeremy)...
One could presume that any market stalls with worn tan paths would be those
that are doing the most business with mini-figure patrons. As long as the
builder provides a compatible transition from tan to green so they can match
up to their neighbors, then why not? The key is to have this standard so
that one plate matches up to the next without any sudden change in terrain.
Joel also said,
> Just a thought aimed towards inclusion vs unintentional exclusion. The Space
> guys need gray plates for obvious reasons.. castle doesn't 'have' to have
> green.
True, but if the terrain is supposedly mostly "natural" then the transitions
from one plate to another need to not be sudden; that is to say we don't
want any straight lines between colors unless there is a reason for it (like
a guy with a shovel who is making it that way or something).
Also, the Space guys do not need gray plates unless they restrict their
imaginations only to surfaces like the moon of Earth. Other moons or
planets could have almost any color surface, including green. They chose
gray as the color for the Moonbase project presumably because they wanted to
use the extra-large baseplates that come only in gray.
Cheers,
-Hendo
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
In lugnet.castle, John P. Henderson writes:
>
> Just to comment even more (while agreeing with Josh and Jeremy)...
>
> One could presume that any market stalls with worn tan paths would be those
> that are doing the most business with mini-figure patrons. As long as the
> builder provides a compatible transition from tan to green so they can match
> up to their neighbors, then why not? The key is to have this standard so
> that one plate matches up to the next without any sudden change in terrain.
Understood. Just throwing it out as devil's advocate. :)
>
> Joel also said,
> > Just a thought aimed towards inclusion vs unintentional exclusion. The Space
> > guys need gray plates for obvious reasons.. castle doesn't 'have' to have
> > green.
>
> True, but if the terrain is supposedly mostly "natural" then the transitions
> from one plate to another need to not be sudden; that is to say we don't
> want any straight lines between colors unless there is a reason for it (like
> a guy with a shovel who is making it that way or something).
Same as above but sometimes people can't avoid that. Just pointing it out as
it came to mind as it did with Chris.
>
> Also, the Space guys do not need gray plates unless they restrict their
> imaginations only to surfaces like the moon of Earth. Other moons or
> planets could have almost any color surface, including green. They chose
> gray as the color for the Moonbase project presumably because they wanted to
> use the extra-large baseplates that come only in gray.
>
> Cheers,
> -Hendo
Oh, I agree. However the idea was a moon base and one of their requirements
were the 96x96 plates (or whatever they are!) for compatibility, most
useable space, and they did say no hodgepodge baseplates - if I'm
remembering what I read - too lazy to go back and peek at their guidelines
again. :)
Anyway as long as using brown or tan can be acceptable, I'm sure most people
participating will be able to blend it all in so it's moot. Just trying to
think of anyone that might wanna participate that may not have enough plates
to do so. ;)
JJ
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
> The Basic Marketplace Shop:
>
> ----Baseplate:
>
> A common Lego 16x16 baseplate with smooth bottom is the standard size for a
> Marketplace Shop. The baseplate must be green, unless the market shop is
> being built custom for a show where the color has been defined as something
> other than green. (IE: the show will have a desert marketplace, therefore
> the baseplate will be tan.)
>
> ----Building Area:
>
> The road is integrated into the shop’s baseplate. The standard road width
> is 8 studs, therefore, there must have a 4 stud deep offset from the front
> of the baseplate to the front of the shop. There must also be a 1 stud
> offset on the back of the shop for an alleyway. Otherwise, there is no side
> offset required. We recommend you include a one stud offset if you would
> rather not have you shop butted against another. The maximum building area
> is 11x16 studs.
Hi,
I realize I'm a bit late to disagree, but I would prefer green
baseplates under the stores (16x16 or16x32) but then lay tan plates down as
the road. That way we would have full baseplate use and the trodden road
many have been asking for. Also with the shop taking up most of the plate
the base, color would not be such a big issue and some could have tan
plates,road goes right up to store, and others could have grass verges.
On the current system a cart would crush everyone on the road and you won't
really be able to appreciate the buildings when we get a big scape.
Please tell me if I'm alone on this,
God Bless,
Nathan
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
Snip Great Marketplace Idea;
I just have one concern, isn't a 2x wide alleyway just too narrow for a
minifig???? The only way to get around this problem is to join the shops
using 2x2 tiles, so that the minifigs can be placed at a slight angle.
I think this is a great idea and I can't wait to see peoples contributions!!!
Dan
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
Hey Dan,
A 2x alley is a bit narrow, but there was some concern about making the
building space to small. I prefer a 4 stud alley, so I have built my shops
(which will be posted soon, I hope) with a 2 stud back offset which gives
the wider alley. It is up to you how much space you allot for the alley,
the standard minimum is only one stud to allow the most flexibility. Also,
if different people put their shops together with different setbacks then it
gives a cool winding effect to the alley. Hope this helps!
Josh
In lugnet.castle, Daniel Moquin writes:
> Snip Great Marketplace Idea;
>
> I just have one concern, isn't a 2x wide alleyway just too narrow for a
> minifig???? The only way to get around this problem is to join the shops
> using 2x2 tiles, so that the minifigs can be placed at a slight angle.
>
> I think this is a great idea and I can't wait to see peoples contributions!!!
>
> Dan
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
After creating a experimental shop on a 16x16 baseplate I came up with
a few problems and I know some of them have been said befor.
In lugnet.castle, Jeremy Scott writes:
> ----Building Area:
>
> The road is integrated into the shop’s baseplate. The standard road width
> is 8 studs, therefore, there must have a 4 stud deep offset from the front
> of the baseplate to the front of the shop. There must also be a 1 stud
> offset on the back of the shop for an alleyway. Otherwise, there is no side
> offset required. We recommend you include a one stud offset if you would
> rather not have you shop butted against another. The maximum building area
> is 11x16 studs.
I think that the road should be made with 16x32 tan basplates, set
between the shops facing each other. With a required 2 stud offset in the
back for the alleyway, so a figure could use the alleyway. Another 2 stud
offset from the front so that they arn't right on the road with a tan plate
to make a path to the shop. Then you could have an overhang in the back of
1 stud and an overhang in the front of two studs. Doing it this way you get
a little more room because then the max building area without an overhang
would be 12x16 and with overhang it would be 15x16. Where now without the
overhang the max building area is 11x16. This would also solve the problem
of a cart being as wide as the road and would make the road look used.
>
> ----Overhang:
>
> There is a one-stud overhang allowed on the front of the shop. The overhang
> must be based off the main structure, and not have any supports outside of
> the 11x16 stud building area.
>
> ----Shape:
>
> There are no additional requirements as to the vertical size or the shape of
> the shop with the exception that the entry to the shop, (If applicable) must
> be tall enough for a minifigure wearing a helmet to pass through. This is
> generally 5 bricks high. This rule may be nullified if the shop is selling
> dwarf only items.
>
> Additional Configurations:
>
> ----Corner Shop:
>
> A 16x16 or 16x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is 11x12 or
> 11x28. The 4 stud offset must apply to the 2 sides of the shop facing the road.
>
> ----Wide Shop:
>
> A 16x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is 11x32.
Two more ideas, if the work and are alowed. A large corner shop on a
32x32 that is set in corectly and takes up the space of both corner spots.
Or one shop on a 16x32 plate that gose from one rode to the other, it would
have doors at both sides and would cross through and stop the alleyway at
that spot. See below.
[ ] [ ]
[ ] [ ]
**************************
* *
* *
* *
* *
**************************
[ ] [ ]
[ ] [ ]
[ ] = the other shops, ] [ = the alleyway and * = the walls of the
shop described above.
> ----2 Shops B2B:
>
> A 16x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is standard for each shop.
> The two shops are separate and must be separated by a 2 wide alleyway in the
> middle. Each end of the baseplate must have the 4 deep offset for the road.
>
> ----2 Wide Shops B2B:
>
> A 32x32 baseplate may be used. The building areas are each 11x32. The two
> shops are separate and must be separated by a 2 wide alleyway in the middle.
> Each end of the baseplate must have the 4 deep offset for the road.
>
> ----4 shops B2B:
>
> A 32x32 baseplate may be used. The building area is standard for each shop.
> The four shops are separate and must be separated by a 2 wide alleyway in
> the middle. Each end of the baseplate must have the 4 deep offset for the road.
Any ways that is my thoughts on this.
--Kevin W. §
P.S. I do like the idea quite well even if it dose not look like it by
the way I have been suggesting changes.
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
In lugnet.castle, Kevin Wanner writes:
> > ----Building Area:
> >
> > The road is integrated into the shop’s baseplate. The standard road width
> > is 8 studs, therefore, there must have a 4 stud deep offset from the front
> > of the baseplate to the front of the shop. There must also be a 1 stud
> > offset on the back of the shop for an alleyway. Otherwise, there is no side
> > offset required. We recommend you include a one stud offset if you would
> > rather not have you shop butted against another. The maximum building area
> > is 11x16 studs.
>
> I think that the road should be made with 16x32 tan basplates, set
> between the shops facing each other. With a required 2 stud offset in the
> back for the alleyway, so a figure could use the alleyway. Another 2 stud
> offset from the front so that they arn't right on the road with a tan plate
> to make a path to the shop. Then you could have an overhang in the back of
> 1 stud and an overhang in the front of two studs. Doing it this way you get
> a little more room because then the max building area without an overhang
> would be 12x16 and with overhang it would be 15x16. Where now without the
> overhang the max building area is 11x16. This would also solve the problem
> of a cart being as wide as the road and would make the road look used.
What size carts are you using? I asumed most people would be using 4-wide
carts, and with two market stalls facing each other the road is 8 studs
wide. With two market stalls back to back the alley is 2 studs wide. Just
wondering if maybe you forgot to double the size of the offsets when you
thought about how wide the road and alley were.
Jason
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| |
|
In lugnet.castle, Jason Maxwell writes:
> In lugnet.castle, Kevin Wanner writes:
> > > ----Building Area:
> > >
> > > The road is integrated into the shop’s baseplate. The standard road width
> > > is 8 studs, therefore, there must have a 4 stud deep offset from the front
> > > of the baseplate to the front of the shop. There must also be a 1 stud
> > > offset on the back of the shop for an alleyway. Otherwise, there is no side
> > > offset required. We recommend you include a one stud offset if you would
> > > rather not have you shop butted against another. The maximum building area
> > > is 11x16 studs.
> >
> > I think that the road should be made with 16x32 tan basplates, set
> > between the shops facing each other. With a required 2 stud offset in the
> > back for the alleyway, so a figure could use the alleyway. Another 2 stud
> > offset from the front so that they arn't right on the road with a tan plate
> > to make a path to the shop. Then you could have an overhang in the back of
> > 1 stud and an overhang in the front of two studs. Doing it this way you get
> > a little more room because then the max building area without an overhang
> > would be 12x16 and with overhang it would be 15x16. Where now without the
> > overhang the max building area is 11x16. This would also solve the problem
> > of a cart being as wide as the road and would make the road look used.
>
> What size carts are you using?
I have two different size carriages one that is 4 studs wide with out wheels
and so it makes it 6 wide, and the other one is 8 with the wheels.
> I asumed most people would be using 4-wide • If that 4 wide has wheels then the cart is only 2 wide by it self.
> carts, and with two market stalls facing each other the road is 8 studs
> wide. With two market stalls back to back the alley is 2 studs wide.
no I didn't forget to double it but when you get a figure to walk in a 2
stud wide alleyway then great but as far as I know some thing has to be 4
studs wide for a fig to use. That is why I wanted a 2 stud offset in the
back so the alleyway we make can be used by the figs.
> Just
> wondering if maybe you forgot to double the size of the offsets when you
> thought about how wide the road and alley were.
No I know the way it is now the road is 8 wide and the alleyway is 2 wide.
--Kevin W. §
| | | | | | |
