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 Trains / *4049 (-20)
  Re: New Couplers (was Re: Do you need plates or/and 1x? bricks?
 
John Neal <johnneal@uswest.net> wrote in message news:38914796.7E99BE...est.net... (...) turntable (...) I would like to see the decoupler for that beast! Accidental decoupling wouldn't happen, but then intentional decoupling would be very (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: New Train Window Ideas (old and copied)
 
Tony Priestman <Tony@you-rang.demon.co.uk> wrote in message news:ensynBAwFXk4Ewo...n.co.uk... (...) Not entirely! Although it technically is a POOP, try to use the 1x1 technic brick with the stud pin in a corner. You will end up having the one of (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  new train pics
 
I've posted some pictures on my ugly, unimaginative website. (URL) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: Dirty Track
 
I found what I was looking for. The images are on Joe's LEGO page: (URL) images are close to the bottom of the page. -Nick James J. Trobaugh wrote in message ... (...) after (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: Dirty Track
 
Yeah I'd love to see that also. I've been thinking about making my own after I spend two evening scrubbing all of my track with a big pink eraser, and some rubbing alcohol on a q-tip. jt -- James J. Trobaugh james.trobaugh@ngltc.org North Georgia (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: Dirty Track
 
I didn't see the specific request for 12V but perhaps you are correct. I do believe that 9V track gets dirty as well. Take a look at Ben Fleskes Daylight page: (URL) you look at the image on the bottom it appears that the wheels have acquired some (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: Dirty Track
 
Hi I did see one, but that's for the 9V track, I think Cliff was on about the 12 Volts I use Solvent Cleaner and a cotton buds and rub very hard, The black stuff has some thing to do with the air oxidising on the electric contacts' on the bottom of (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: Dirty Track
 
I recall that someone around here made a car that cleaned the rail as it went. If I remember correctly they mounted a piece of foam rubber to the last car of the train. It would clean the track on every pass. Does anyone else recall it or have the (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: BayLTC Logo finished
 
Steve, Thats funny you mention the "creative memories" die-cut cutters, my wife just got some the other day and I was already thinking of how I could use them for my trains.. ha! jt sebarile-MOBL wrote in message ... (...) would (...) -- James J. (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.org.us.baylug, lugnet.trains, lugnet.trains.org, lugnet.loc.us.ca.sf, lugnet.publish)
 
  Re: Dirty Track
 
On Fri, 28 Jan 2000, Cliff Olson (<Fp15CB.FKJ@lugnet.com>) wrote at 05:16:59 (...) Model railway people use something like an eraser. IIRC, here in the UK they're called track cleaning rubbers. Judicious use of IPA on a cloth may be effective, but I (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: New Train Window Ideas (old and copied)
 
On Fri, 28 Jan 2000, Frank Filz (<Fp12zu.6rM@lugnet.com>) wrote at 04:25:34 (...) But surely, that would be a POOP :-) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Anyone want #7851?
 
I happened across this in the back of a small toyshop's Lego section some years ago, and just found it again in the closet. #7851 -- the 4.5v train set curved rails. Still in the box, some wear on the corners, but it's still sealed. (URL) only Lego (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Dirty Track
 
Does anyone have a way to keep that nasty black stuff from getting all over the rails of your layout? I just went through a whole box of kleenex getting my track clean again. And where exactly does that black stuff come from anyway? Cliff (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: New Train Window Ideas (old and copied)
 
Larry Pieniazek wrote in message <3890E9D6.F2B5F3E0@v...er.net>... (...) that (...) Another way to handle the problem would be to add a column of 1x1 bricks on top of or below the windows. Now with 3 studs, you can use two Technic beams separated (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: New Train Window Ideas (old and copied)
 
(...) Yes. HOWEVER, the trick is to turn this piece sideways (so that the normal "back" is on the bottom), then put a plate on top. If you do that, the height is one brick, there is a stud AT THE BOTTOM EDGE of the face, and the stud is flush with (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: electromagnetic switcher engine
 
(...) I brought this idea up in lugnet.robotics a while ago. I'm interested in building an RCX controlled switch engine. The vague plans floating around in my head now involve cannibalizing a relay with the right specs to be driven by an RCX output (...) (25 years ago, 28-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: BayLTC Logo finished
 
Cutting out carefully is a drag! And in our case an oval is a hard shape to cut nicely. I thought about a die-cut cutter. My wife has a ton of them for her "creative memories" stuff. I bet an oval is available, although this would dictate the size (...) (25 years ago, 27-Jan-00, to lugnet.org.us.baylug, lugnet.trains, lugnet.trains.org, lugnet.loc.us.ca.sf, lugnet.publish)
 
  Re: New Train Window Ideas (old and copied)
 
I thought that the 1x1 w/side stud was a recessed side stud. Wouldn't that leave a gap? I believe that we are going to be having these windows only get one stud on each side connecting this way. Even still, as long as they are staggered (one side on (...) (25 years ago, 27-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: New Train Window Ideas (old and copied)
 
(...) That it is! Love that piece! (...) Yes, and with the "bottom" having two attachment points, (1.2 and 1x1 w/side stud turned sideways) the top having only one should still be plenty to keep the windows securely held. (25 years ago, 27-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)
 
  Re: New Train Window Ideas (old and copied)
 
(...) Huh? What do I know?? Which end are we talking about - the 'top' of the windows or the 'bottom'? For the bottom use Larry's favorite piece - the Technic 1.2 peg (or whatever it's called). For the 'top', use the same technique, but in reverse - (...) (25 years ago, 27-Jan-00, to lugnet.trains)


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