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(...) Yes, but that's what LEGO use them for 90% of the time, and what everyone calls them. It took me ages to find them in the parts list. I had to use Google to find the part number, then search for that in MLCAD. (...) Not funny. (...) The 'BOAT (...) (18 years ago, 8-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: End of line : Buffer stops
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(...) Nice ! Thanks for sharing. (...) I do prefer form-based names for parts rather than use-based names. Inverted 2x2 dishes are boat studs only when used .... as a boat stud (...) QED (...) If Huw reads these lines, it will be nice of him to (...) (18 years ago, 8-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: End of line : Buffer stops
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(...) There are some nice ideas there - I particularly like the chequered stop marker. Here's my version of a very old British wooden type: (URL) The dark grey plate and slope aren't really part of the design, but they do give it a lot more stopping (...) (18 years ago, 8-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | End of line : Buffer stops
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Hi, With the help of Tim, I've translated Erik Amzallag (URL) article> about bumpers. (URL) The english version> It's a brief review of what has been done on the subject. Didier (18 years ago, 7-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: My first train7 project
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(...) Looks awesome, Calum! I really love looking "underground" on train layouts, and this area will be a kid favorite for sure! And it's a good thing that you decided to go against using LEGO lights-- they are practically worthless as illuminators. (...) (18 years ago, 7-Jan-07, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | My first train7 project
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This is my first rtlToronto/train7 project (about two shows too late), an underground train station. Since the new layout has a +20 brick ground level, we have an underground layer (well, JeffVW and I do) which we can build stuff underneath. I think (...) (18 years ago, 7-Jan-07, to lugnet.org.ca.rtltoronto, lugnet.trains, lugnet.announce.moc, FTX) !!
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| | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics
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(...) Sure no problem. The 1/8in brass U channel I have used in the past is easily obtainable at most hobby shops. However I have found it in may other locations including ace hardware and hobby lobby. It’s even available in lengths up too 3 ft but (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: Warsaw Tram Lw #541
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(...) Unfortunately adding another layer is not really an option (without changing the lines or altering the structure) but I took of the layer of clears and raised the windows by one and it looks better even if it loses the top windows. Thanks for (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics
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(...) Could you suggest a source Lester (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics
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(...) There is conducting tape used to repair traces in printed circuit boards that may be better. Checek electronics suppliers Lester (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains)
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| | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics........adapting metal to plastic rails
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In lugnet.trains, Ondrew Hartigan wrote: ... snip... (...) Yes, helps a lot, thanks! I guess the trick is finding a good way to narrow the rail profile. Since it isn't worth modding the simple straights and curves, any tool would have to fit within (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics........adapting metal to plastic rails
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(...) Surfacing tools such as sanders and planers have a lot of torque and would probably tear the parts up Better is a light duty router or rotozip. I think a cutter is beter than a sander to get a smooth result. Either way you might get chipping (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics........adapting metal to plastic rails
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(...) here's the easiest way for me to explain this i can think of. new RC plastic track (URL) old metal rail track minus the metal (URL) to put metal on the new RC track in order to make 9v trains work you need to shave the top and sides of the (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics
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In lugnet.trains, John Neal wrote: ..snip.. (...) Hmm... I wonder if that would need to be notched to accept "donor" rail. (...) May well be. I was thinking that the donor rail might not seat well if the rail head profile is too wide. Anyway... (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics
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(...) Excuse me, but why would TLC owe you anything? Double crossovers have IRL existed for well over 100 years... The new LEGO version is even vastly different from your type, since it only has 2 levers instead of 4. So I don't see any reason why (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains) !
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| | Re: Warsaw Tram Lw #541
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(...) Actually, what if you added another plate? Perhaps one more might "sell" it better? But given the choice of just dropping the upper window or leaving it as is, I'd definitely opt for the latter. JOHN (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: Warsaw Tram Lw #541
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(...) Hi John, Thanks. My eye didn't entirely "buy it" either if I understand you correctly. I have to admit that I hadn't considered classic doors but I was kind of hoping to build this one so I was going for something I could make without too much (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics
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(...) It's a question better answered by a modder like Ondrew, but I think you are correct-- "channel" probably wasn't the best description. Shaving down would work AFAIK. That is to match track height. Now the 9 volt train motor actually picks up (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: Prepare to cry: 2007 train pics
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(...) OK, thanks, that makes sense. So... do you really need something with a non-trivial profile -- a "channel", as you say, or does the top of the rail just need to be shaved down? I'm thinking that a woodworker's drum sander (the stationary kind (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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| | Re: Warsaw Tram Lw #541
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(...) I like it a lot, Tim-- it really grabs the proto well. One thing, however. My eye isn't "buying" the additional clear plate as an extension of the 1x2x2 classic window, thus making the windows appear to small compared to the proto. Did you (...) (18 years ago, 6-Jan-07, to lugnet.trains, FTX)
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