Subject:
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Re: Medieval Marketplace (A Common Castle Builders Project)
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Newsgroups:
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lugnet.castle
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Date:
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Sun, 20 Oct 2002 18:32:23 GMT
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Viewed:
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743 times
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I've been working on castle walls for a town that is completely modular.
I'll tell you how I'm doing it and you can decide for yourselves if you want
to adopt it, alter it, or throw it in the garbage. :)
First I built Wall Segments on 16x32 plates. I want to make the walls
historically acurate, so I've built the walls so they are 6 studs thick.
(To do this I built two 1 stud thick walls in parrallel to each other with 4
studs of empty space between them. The empty space is then filled with
rocks and gravel, much like real walls.) I've place a small tower in the
center of each wall segment. The wall segments connect to each other with
technic bricks with pins. They also have 2 technic hole bricks each in the
very center (14 studs from the edge). The side of the wall facing the city
is on the edge of the 16x32 plate, and the empty space on the plate faces
out. (I don't have a digital camera, anyone know a quick and dirty way to
draw this?)
The idea is to offset the town modules from the walls for structural
integrity. Each 16x32 or 32x32 town module connect to two wall segments.
(Check out below. Each # represents 16x16 of wall and each * represents
16x16 of town.)
#### (two wall segments)
**
** (one 32x32 wall segment)
As you can see, (hopefully), the streets will run into the town of the wall
segment. I've built in stairs coming down from the towers that will end on
the street. To build a gate, you can build a normal wall segment with a
gate instead of a tower. I've also build corner towers that use one 16x32
plate connected to a 16x16 plate to form a corner.
##
# (Corner wall segment)
Someday I'll have a digital camera....
-Aaron
"Josh Wedin" <pushmi.pullyu@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:H4AE4B.2tw@lugnet.com...
> I worked out some stuff yesterday, trying different ideas and things. I
> think we should go with the marketplace. It is faster to build and the
> standards below do work for a "temporary type structure." After all the
> original idea was something that can be built in a day and posted right • away
> if the builder has a digital camera (I don't so my posts will take a • little
> longer). I rebuilt four of my booths in the new standards and they look
> good together. It is a fun challange to get the right details in a small
> space and the result is a busy, crowded marketplace. I like it! Let's • get
> building and post stuff pronto!
>
> Josh
>
> >
> > What I see developing here are two competing but complementary ideas. One • is
> > for a "marketplace" - generally an open place that has been filled with
> > basically temporary type structures, with enough room for pedestrian
> > traffic. The second is for a "market/town street", with permanent • structures
> > of one or two (maybe even three!) floors containing shop/home.
> >
> > Here are some proposed guidelines, which are presented for discussion • (i.e.
> > other views are welcome):
> >
> > Marketplace:
> > - Baseplate standard: 16x16;
> > - temporary style structures of one level (an "attic" level might be • workable);
> > - front offset of ~3-4 studs - allows for pedestrian traffic between • facing
> > stalls;
> > - back offset of ~1-2 studs - for back alley access for merchants;
> > - if not a full-width stall, a side offset of ~1-2 studs;
> > - if a corner stall, front off-sets of ~3-4 studs on both sides, back
> > off-set of 2x2 studs minimum.
> >
> > Market/Town Street:
> > - Baseplate standard: 16x16;
> > - Baseplate variations: 16x32 for longer buildings, or regular • back-to-back,
> > OR 32x32 for longer buildings, back-to-back;
> > - permanent style structures of one or two (or maybe even three) levels;
> > - 1 stud front off-set (so baseplates can be connected with brickplates);
> > - back off-set of ~1-2 studs for back alley;
> > - no side off-set or overhang;
> > - ~2 stud front overhang allowed;
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