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Hello, for work i've been building a lego crane, which is used to attract people to my company's stand at fairs/conferences. One of the problem is the batteries. It's annoying that every once in a while someone has to change them. I've heard that (...) (20 years ago, 25-Nov-03, to lugnet.robotics)
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(...) (URL) in french but google can understand it ;-) nanobapt (20 years ago, 25-Nov-03, to lugnet.robotics)
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Hello Ilja, (...) Here is the method that I used in my motors tests ((URL) that require no modification to RCX: use two fake batteries assembled from the sawed ends of old alkaline batteries, maintained at the right spacing with rods of hot melting (...) (20 years ago, 25-Nov-03, to lugnet.robotics)
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I've done something similar but used wooden dowels cut to size. No harsh chemicals to mess with. :) Jim West www.jameswest.com The box said Windows 95 or better, so I installed Linux. ---...--- Original Message ---...--- From: "Philippe Hurbain" (...) (20 years ago, 25-Nov-03, to lugnet.robotics)
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(...) There was a rumour that 2.0 would have a power jack, which proved to be false when it came out. Personally I also sometimes use a stabilized 9V 1.5A supply, but as the others said, be careful with that. Jürgen (20 years ago, 26-Nov-03, to lugnet.robotics)
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(...) Philo, I want to attempt the conversion to an external power source. I have looked at your page but I have a few questions. Please forgive me that I know next to nothing about electric power and electronics -- or so it seems. - Your regulated (...) (20 years ago, 12-Jan-04, to lugnet.robotics)
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Hi Ken, (...) Maximum RCX power consumption is 1500 mA (there is a fuse inside rated 1.5A). Anything rated at least 1A should be OK. (...) They should, if they are really regulated (some cheap warts advertised as regulated are not so good...). A (...) (20 years ago, 12-Jan-04, to lugnet.robotics)
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(...) CAUTION!!! The wall-wart that comes with the train adaptor puts out an AC voltage that will likely damage your RCX if used this way!!! I have read reports of people burning out their RCXes by connecting the wall-wart to the battery contacts (...) (20 years ago, 12-Jan-04, to lugnet.robotics)
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(...) You are right Chris, the train controller is not a good idea. Indeed all Lego adaptors (including the one for RCX 1.0) provide AC only. And turning the knob in the wrong direction is just too easy. Thanks for correcting my misleading (...) (20 years ago, 12-Jan-04, to lugnet.robotics)
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(...) I ran by Radio Shak today and they had one 3-12v rated at 1A I think. It was $37! (...) I have considered that too. But uncovered another potential complication. In researching around somewhere... I think at lego.com actually it said that RCX (...) (20 years ago, 13-Jan-04, to lugnet.robotics)
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(...) I think you could find something cheaper than that (with a fixed-voltage output?) (...) The RIS 1.0 didn't support variables, but 1.0 bricks can use latest firmware so there is NO problem here ! (...) As Chris mentionned elswhere in this (...) (20 years ago, 13-Jan-04, to lugnet.robotics)
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"ken koleda" <kkoleda@co.wayne.mi.us> wrote in message news:HrD4zL.1sEF@lugnet.com... <<snip>> (...) looked at (...) to (...) regulator (...) adapter. (...) run (...) Hi Ken, I have been using a Radio Shack Cat #273-1772 with good results. It is a (...) (20 years ago, 15-Jan-04, to lugnet.robotics)
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(...) Right. But that's not what I was asking or suggesting. The idea was...elave the RCX2.0 as is on batteries. Run some other devices off of whatever power source, but control that power source via program logic from the RCX. The RCX could run (...) (20 years ago, 20-Jan-04, to lugnet.robotics)
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(...) It sounds like what you're wanting to do is to effectively turn a battery-powered RCX into the rough equivalent of a multi-function smart-solenoid. All final output devices (lights, motors, etc.) are powered by switched 9v AC supplies, and the (...) (20 years ago, 20-Jan-04, to lugnet.robotics)
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